_ethrty-Andy_

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316i manual is really all you need for a daily too! Ive been keeping my eye out too

i just want to punch people that have no concept of saftey. i mentioned to my flatmate at the time that i got new tyres costing 250 each, he said wow cool mine were lik $69. then i notice a few days later ALL four corners had a different tyre on, and said he just got whatever was cheapest the tyre shops like tonys and all that should be the people that are educating. how can a car with different tread and type on all four corners be safe? he does sh*t loads of milage and easily goes through a set of tyres or two between WOFs. the reality is, 'that car' would have been able to go around 'that bend' quite happily at 130km/h had it had decent tyres on it. but because it had substandard tyres with different patterns in each corner and blown shocks (all items not checked in warrents), it fell into a ditch killing x amount of people. you can factor driver error and all the other excuses you like, but you dont see racing drivers attacking corners on $69 linglongs

let me know what you have with price. to be passed on to a mate, i havent got myself an E30 at the moment

got any old speakers lying around? use an angle grinder to cut them in the middle and take the cone off those and use the big disk on the otherside as magnets, and then use an old sheet folded in half. those magnets are strong as and you need to put a bit of muscle behind them to pull them back off which is what you want. i have used those for years after i discovered how strong they were at highschool back in the day but if you want to be a consumer with money burning in your pocket, then repcos and supercheaps have them

i had those on my wagon/ in the wet, being rwd the slightest bit of throttle and the back would slip out. and its not like a m52b20 is powerfull... as well as steering being crap. even in the dry, it didnt like spirited driving... I had them at taupo on the back just because i wanted to use the things up and the back was loose as, though admittedly they arent designed for that use..

if you add it on, then the price of it goes up by 25% for everybody that buys diesel for thier farm equipment, excavators and power generaters that obviously dont drive on the road. at a guess, id say easily less than half the diesel NZ uses per annum is in road going cars and trucks, and thats why its seperate

saw a few hyundai H1s today, what about those, are they any good? i know Chorus use them...

excuse me if it comes out the worng way but are/were you a cop? thats a lot of call outsid rather be doing 140 in my e34 with no aids and bridgestone tyres than the same in my mates E46 with linglongs lol

Jon at JKS Euro. google JK Southern European for details. Ex forum sponsor, great team/service/knowledge etc dont really go anywhere else these days.

Great have narrowed it down to either a merc vito and a ford transit. Ran this past the boss and more inclined to go with the merc. I talked to a customer who mentioned that they used to have a transit like the one pictured which was screaming at 100km/h. Having the indicators and wipers the "right way around" would be good too. Does anyone know if the merc vitos are fwd though? I cant find anything online.

Either the 911 or the C63 depending on what i needed it for. Would have a merc or audi over any equivelent late model bmw anyday.

Really wanting rwd because the engine is maybe 200kg max, but having a van full of computer gear all the weight will be over the back wheels. We currently use three station wagons, two of which are fwd and one rwd (my e34 daily) and the e34 is easily the best when wet. The other two just sit there spinning the wheels if there is rain gravel or hills are involved. When it comes to chassis flex, i dont think it will make a difference being fwd or rwd anyway? There are two diagnally opposing wheels that have no weight on them anyway. Any other experience?

You can have all the electronic saftey systems in the world, but with the tyres being the only thing between the car and the real world, if they are sh*t, physics wins. Id be surprised if you get any better or even the same milage out of them.

The upside is i have been put in charge of up to 10k to spend on a van for work. The downside is, i dont know anything about vans. I need something big so Hiaces and L300s etc are ruled out. Something tells me to stay euro obviously, but its not my vehicle so need best bang for buck - 90% of our work is in the city, and involves motrway driving to get there - Must be able to carry a full to the brim load of electronic gear. this includes CRT (lead) TVs like you grand pearants still have etc so needs a good loading weight - May be required to go up welly hills from time to time, so really looking between 2.5L and 3.0L, i think most are anyway - Not bothered on automatic or manual, unless you guys say i should be. everyone that works here can drive both. - MUST be rear wheel drive or 4 wheel drive - Low maintenece and/or something that a home mechanic (ie me!) can work on would be good too So anything fit all of those? looking at these for starters. Not the actual listings, but just to give you an idea of model Ford Transit - common as right? but its a ford? Merc Sprinter - apparently very wide and not too long which would be much easier for parking the thing in town, but borderline out of pricerange.. worth getting a cheapy? Merc Vito - are these FWD though? VW Transporter - ummm?? anything else??? thanks!

i am but not at $100 im not...

Might have to sell a few more sets of these before you get your house deposit.... Ill take them. Pm me with account.

What chassis/body?

RESPECT

i screwed a screw into the screw as a temporary fix that ended up lasting for a few years... it worked too. i guess the reverse drive bit is the correct way though

This. Try and mount the filter as close in behind the headlights. Alternatively you can even cut a hole in the metal under where the airbox used to be and put rubber around the hole so it doesnt cut your rubber hose. however, check with your certifier, some might fail you for it, most wont (i know of a few that wont). Then put the hose and filter as close to the ground as possible interested too!

need to be a member to view Max, just like bimmersport

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-428237487.htm

I havent asked him that to be honest

engine was in my 520i, and has just over 70,000kms on it from new. It was originally in a facelift E36 320i that was rear ended. Was then transplanted into my car when the original engine died, all done by the previous owner. Is now being pulled out to make way for the new engine. Pulls very well, and, while the slowest car at Taupo a few months back, it pulled quite well all considering. Running full M50 electrics conversion so i would assume this has the same results as doing an M50b25 elcetrics conversion to an M52b28 engine. Brand new belts, plugs, water pump, new coils etc in June. runs like new etc as you would expect I know its a 2L but what can one expect for this? Its way too good to scrap