DRTDVL

provisionally sold

Presision Repairs on Archers Road...

links posted in the E30 wheels thread in the general discussion

These are a second hand and have very very very little wear on them. would say about 80 - 90% of tread left... They are to big for the car as i need 195 / 50 / 15's on it. I'll get some pics up later tonight, but offered here and a few other forums before going on trademe. email me: [email protected] as i might not check here and read the offer... Open to resonable offers....

THE FOLLOWING ERROR(S) WERE FOUND Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed Can anyone explain this?

Those look like copies of the Buddy Club P1 Racing wheel... They are very very very common on the Misty Mirage Cyborgs... We had a set on the gf's old RS Cyborg.Â

i've always used the Narva Plus 50's they give a crap load more light that factory... becareful with the temp range i.e. 5000k, 6000k, 7000k and 8000k. if i remember it's something like 6500 is the best for human eyes, if you start to go to far either side of this they you loose visable light... Being on backroads and gravel roads i didn't want this... You might change the color of the light, but you might decrease the visable amount of light..Â

Ya thats the plan, greg's got all the gearboxes there for me to get bits from. It's more just a money thing at the moment... The car doesn't have a problem finding the limiter in 5th at the moment... I've got conflicting information about whats been done to the engine - so until i get it on a dyno and get a/f ratios, power, and torque figures i can't be certain.Â

From  my understanding the car is currently running a complete 1.6 box... with the mi16 1.9ltr engine the gears are very short...

I have a pure hatered / love relationship with it... Do a big chunk of work, and then 5 new things pop up... I'm going to be knocked out of action with it for awhile now, as it needs a new gearbox, master cylinder, new brakes, bias valve, new custom lines, and more... so i'm looking at a min of 2 grand i think probably 3 grand... I'm going to look at killing a few gearboxes to get the ratio's i want for the box so it's a matter of getting those and pulling it apart, new syncros' or maybe a crash box from the uk... i mean it's only money right?  Attached is the gear ratio's i was thinking about trying to find... Ideally i'd want a first gear to be upto about almost 65 - 70 but oh well... the current engine will rev to 6500, i could go for a 0.810 or 0.757 5th for a extra 10 - 20 kph but i can't see me really getting to those speeds that often...Â

ya with the 307 brakes you need to go to a 23.5mm m/c

Ya it's been six months of working most weekends... All i can say is thanks to everyone thats been helping - Mainly MLM from here... He's managed to keep me sain when all i've wanted to do is crush the damm thing... With the gearbox, the syncro for first is gone... I can by pass the syncro with a 1200 odd rpm blip before goin into the gear but it's something i need get done as the gears arn't designed to be crashed... NOTE TO ANYONE! quickshifters will kill syncro's!

Update from last 2 weekend: - Mocked up the cold airbox in cardboard and should have it made in alloy before the weekend so we can make some finishing touches to it as needed. - Painted the door handles, rear slam panel, windscreen scuttle plate, and wheel trims - Modified intake system to reincorporate the idle stepper motor feedline after the MAF - Increased the coolent % in the cooling system. - Glued the speedo cover up so that can be fitted this week - Sealed the leaks around the rollcage bars going from the area in front of the windscreen and down to the driver/co-drivers feet area - Painted front and rear tow hooks bright red - Made and fitted heat shield for pod filter out of alloy. - Fitted washer bottle - Painted and Fitted new wheel arch trim - Painted remaining gray exterior plastics - Painted rear badges - an Alfa metallic silver and brilliant red (basically the brightest red you can get) - Repainted tow hooks brilliant red - Cleaned up engine by wiring - Tested and painted ram scoop headlight - Found and fitted speedo cover - New wiper blades to fit 405 on wiper washer jets - Painted wiper arms to match rest of exterior blacks - Passed Auth Card - Bought heatsheild blanket for trans tunnel protection - Increased dampening on rear shocks Also dropped the car off to Greg Kent's today and the oil pressure is FANTASTIC - solid 30psi at hot idle so it's the gauge (vdo) or sender thats gone or both that have gone kaboom... I'll look at replacing them both with a mechanical gauge later and wiring up a warning light like George has... Other news from Greg: - Foot pedal master cylinder is shot and needs replacing. - Brakes are dieing... should look at upgrading from the Bendix to gurling or 306 s16 (266mm) or 307/gti-6 (283mm) as I'm going to need new a master it would be good to size it to what i need now based on the brakes i upgrade too... if i can locate some 306 s16 ones I'll put those back on the 306 and take the 307's off the 306 and put them onto the 205... although it will increase the steering weight a lot... - Handbrake master cylinder had no free play and that might be the reason it's binding, might need to look at a new bias valve as thats also possibly the problem. - Speedo cable looks a little too short and it's now working but might need a new one. nothing a few grand wouldn't fix... opps forgot anouther biggie from Greg: He checked the gearbox fluid as it's having issuies going into first... and yes lots of metal filings so i'm going to either need to recon this box or get a second box and fix the first one.... i'm now going to have to have a think about what box to run... I think i'm going to have to have a very very good read over these pages: http://www.taylor-eng.com/gearing/be_ratios.htm and http://www.taylor-eng.com/gearing/205-405gearing.htm

how much to fit an adjustable bias valve?

Motul RBF600 and RBF660 is only about $25 from BNT for a 1ltr... Thats damm good... The best i've found was $28 for 500ml (one bottle), you should only need 1 ltr to flush your system... that was from Turbo Vechicals in penrose...

The plates would then be flagged as stolen, if any cop was to run the plate like they do, it would show as stolen and they would then get pulled over. I guess i'm refering to the more intelligent criminal... I had my personal plates stolen a few years back and i was getting pulled over 2x a week for having plates that were flagged as stolen on the car. By having legit plates that are not flagged as stolen they run a much high percentage of not being pulled over. Just remember some of the worst criminals have been arrested because of minor car related offences... i can't remember but i think it was charles manson or ted bundy that had a broken taillight...Â

I"m supprised at the lack of criminals using them... You don't need any proof of plate ownership when ordering from overseas. You could go to Sylvia Park on a weekend, write down 15 plates of simalar cars, get the plates made up and then use them for dodgy dealings... SO potentically it is a serious offence when looking at it that way... BUT i do feel that given that it's $35 to remake a euro plate the $400 fee is excesive

How tall and fat are you? There is a guy selling all his speedway gear on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/S...n-208029000.htm XXL FLAMECRUSHER DOUBLE LAYER SUIT. has small fray on right knee. GLOVES SIZE L NECK BRACE BOOTS SIZE 9 HELMET SIZE WILL FIT 23INCHES OR 58CMS BALACLAVA BOX OF TEAROFFS CARRY BAG BELL SPORT 3 RACER SERIES $400 is starting price and reserve... The helmet along is worth that...

Mod #2 should be remove the Jap plate mount...Â

Right update time: Last night MLM and I got new terminals on the battery, secured the harness's to the rollbar (big cable ties), got new arch trim, thats about it... Current list of problems: - Suspension way way to soft - Foot pedal m/c is f @ ked - Hydrolic handbrake is binding on the rear brakes - Because of above rear pads crumbled - Massive water leaks when it rains, thinking it's the holes in the firewall for the rollcage not sealed properly (getting massive footwell 3cm deep puddles) - Leaking around the rear 3/4 windows - Need to make a cold airbox up that uses a panel filter so i can put the pipe back in that goes to the idle stepper motor, instead of sucking in filtered unmetered air. - Need to get radiator header tank sealed. - Need to roll front arches to fit tyres - Need to sort out why when the cars oil is above 70^C i'm getting 3psi at idle instead of 30psi. - Speedo cable broken - Speedo dash cover missing - needs replacing - can't find one in the country at a wreakers - there is one on that damaged turners wreck that i've asked the guy who bought it to sell it to me - Need to get arch trim off greg and find new mounting system to stop them flying off - Fit window washer bottle / motor and connect to jets - Need to wirebrush the rear underneath of the car and spray with anti rust paint. The car is going into get it's Authoritry card inspection today, so hopefully it passes... Then it WOF and Rego time. I've decided i'll put the DRTDVL plates onto the race car. This weekend i'll be working away on the car also currently the list is: - Use cardboard to mockup sheilded airbox  - Use cardboard to mockup cold airbox using a panel filter - thinking behind this is i might put the pipe that feeds the idle stepper motor back on to sort out idle when cold, and the pod is too large then. - Seal around rollcage and firewall - stop leaks - Look at sealing plastic 3/4 windows - stop leaks - See about testing anouther master cyclinder for brake pedal - More to add when i think of them....Â

We have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ20, it's not slr but 12x zoom, it's 5.0 mp but it takes really nice photos... Well i think so anyways - it's a few years old now but i recommend one...

coolers: cost of manufacturing, unnessasary for purpose. in a cooler there is a air pocket (void) that works as an insulation barriar and depending on the type of plastics used the thermal conductivity of them can be relativly low thus not absorbing much heat. same way that double glaseing works on houses or server rooms. why nz doesn't have double glaseing it's homes is beyond me. With air conditioning your looking at a completely different thing. what type of air conditioner are you talking about? a cars air conditioning? Most car's air con pipes aren't insulated, maybe the modern cars but not the old ones. Buildings? they have massive units on the roof that pump air down HVAC ducts that you can (and see in movies) crawl through, they arn't insulated.  And you can get a ceramic blanket - it's spun ceramic much like a fibreglass blanket, we used it to insulate the crucabile at the alloy foundry we had at my old work. Alot of it comes down to costs. Most industrial insulations are a polymer of some sort. I'm not saying ti's better or worse... i was saying it was an option to be looked at. I don't know anyone thats done it to say which works better, i do know how ever that it's much better on exhausts and turbo manifolds. Espically seeing as how heat wrap is known to crack welds. Â

http://hpcoatings.co.nz/exhaust.htm Quoted from website: This unique ceramic-aluminium coating process reduces ambient under hood temperature while increasing horsepower.Â

If i remember correctly - they aren't super expensive either... it was something like 140 or something for a pug manifold a friend was getting done... i can look for the price but it's not much really, espicially when you factor in your time to the equation. i don't really do things to make them pretty, i prefer them to make my car work better...Â

http://hpcoatings.co.nz/turbos.htm Taken from the website: Intercooler Pipes Coating intercooler pipes, inside and outside, will make them look great in your engine bay. The HiPerCoat coating will stop rust from forming on the inside or outside and will keep the cooled air charge cooler.