DRTDVL

I'd be very wearry of heads from some manufactures. We looked at some replacement heads when we developed some of our heads and some of them are shocking! They come with the same flaws as the factory head, and in some cases where worse, mainly in poor castings. Lots of porosity in the heads which will lead to cracking as the trapped air expands. I would also avoid painted heads as they can hide a lot of defects.

///Mmm Boobs

I know a few guys in the pug world running them as our engines suffer from oil surge/starvation problems, and they swear by them (accusumps).Â

Classic cover don't want to cover daily driven cars - thats what they told me over the phone when i was insuring the racecar and enquired about the 306. With the cover for the 205, i've got full glass cover when not in competition with classic cover.

Wait for rimless to catch on in the car world...

I think georges is a 1999 or 2001. The 205 is an 88 - but ya. It's f**ked! Brakes, trans, tires, all need to be replaced. That's before I start looking into mounts, bushes, electrics, dyno'd, + lots others. Spent 23,000 roughly so far and no where near being road ready! But look at it this way - you will have an amazing car at the end of it... You don't buy an old car because it's going to be economical to run or maintain. You have 20 years of wear and tear on the car. But once it's all done it will be mint and will be something to take massive pride in. I've come close to selling the pug (205) about 4 times now because it's been heartbreaking and a pain in the ass (and wallet) - done massive work then major problem,then fix that do more work then major problem again - repeat cycle. Espically when I was offered the kiwi 2 racecar in mint actual running condition with lots of expensive spares for not much more than i paid for the pug - i had 4 offers for the 205 within 3 hours of saying I was considering selling it. It made me realise it's worth keeping... You have a mint e30 - in awzome stock looking condition it's not (no offence to others) on aftermarket massive or out of period mags, lowered to an inch of it's life - like so many others out there. It's damn nice - keep it - put the effort in and it's going to be and maintain to be a stunner. This is coming from the man who's car will spend the next most likely 6 month no being used because it's broken Edit: Iphones suck to type with... stupid predictive crappy thing (see even new sh*t causes problems)

BUgger man thats no good... I've seen towies just latch onto control arms to pull cars up onto the flatbed before... Hopefully it's nothing major to get back up and going... Just think both me and George are in a much worse place than you, and his car is new, well newish... soon to be new....

make sure if you go steel braided they are certified to nz standards and have that tag thing

whats the condition of the master cylinder link?

H&R, Billies, or Eibach

They generally will allow outsiders to help cover costs, but they are mainly setup run for members. There is a company: http://www.playdayontrack.co.nz/ that runs them for anyone to attend.

Look up extrude porting - leaves an as cast looking surface... Basically an abrasive sludge is pumped throught the port increasing the overall size of the port while looking basically "stock" - was big a few years back with the v8 boys... a  few got caught We found some heads flowed better with a 5 angle seat vs a full rad seat cut

pug = lift off overstear kings! you can learn it and then use it as a driving method... it's really helpful for doing things like scandinavian flicks, or when you have overcooked it into a corner... Yes i've had many a moment in my old 205 and the 306... the new 205 i haven't pushed it yet as it be broken... =;-) Bonus with the 205 being so small you can fit it and a small movers type truck on a one way bridge... although from experance i would not recommend testing it...

I think i know the problem here... You learnt to drive on tarmac? Go find some gravel and "REALLY" learn how to drive... (you don't have the smily poking the other smilie with a stick... )

Thanks for that... I understand a bit better now... I was thinking they where an alternative to a windage tray..

I'm just trying to figure out if you should run both...

Do you guys already run a windage tray? If you minimize the splash with the baffling and a tray do you then need a scrapper?

Personaly me = Motul all the way...You want to read the actual boiling point for wet and for dry.... read below Have a read of this site... http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml Particularly: 1) http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml <--- brake fuild Dot rating explained 2)http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

Ya, i could leave the bias kit, but i'm thinking that for the couple hundred it's going to cost to do it would be benifitial to be able to control the rear braking levels. Espically with the larger front brakes going on. And with the gearbox out of the car it would be easier to move around the engine bay. I was hoping to have to do any of this after at least 5 events but oh well... I would love a Renault Megane F1... they are damm nice...  Pug vs Renault??? hmm good choice... people are commenting that the new renault hatchs Cleo 172, 182, and 197 (i think thats its model) are the closest thing to a 205 you can get now days in terms of it's knife edge handling. So yes... saving time it is... I'm basically going to have a fairly new spec car. All be it one that i'll look at doing a lot more once i rebuld some savings after the car is running... the car will eventually be running a full aftermarket ecu, ap racing brakes, proper pedal box, much better suspension, solid lifters, billet cams, custom headers, quad throttle bodies, 8000 - 8500 rev limit and the most important of all be converted to a gravel car... i mean after all - All the best things in life are dirty... I've got a A4 size 10 font list of things i want to do the to the car after it's "Finished" well finished enough to enter events... Are racecars well cars ever finished?

Right had a good chat with Greg and have worked out i'm look at $2,500 roughly before i can think of racing in the car. This cost includes but is not limited to: Gearbox (going to use an mi16 box) + associated seals Rear Main engine seal - current one would have been fitted 6 years ago and while the gearbox is off... 307 Front Capliers, discs, and pads - all second hand New Master Cylinder - putting this off till 307 brakes are ready to be installed. Brake Bias valve + new brake pipe lines - although not absolutely required, it would allow easy fitting of the bias valve and removal of the factory bias valve... Seal kit for 307 Front Calipers New Pads - rear's definantly / fronts could try factory pads until worn... Not in a particularly happy mood right now... On the upside... The car will be pretty much as close to "new" as possible i think... I'd say with things they way they are right now... i'm at least 4+ months away more likely 5-6 months... So yes... this doesn't help the fact i'm ment to be saving for a lacrosse trip to the uk next april

how would these differ from a windage tray?

We would use 80 grit to really get at the as cast and then as a "polish" would use 150 it gave good results without getting too smooth... When your attacking the ports put some nice thick tap like electrical tape or something over the seat so should you nic the seat you don't have to get them recut.Same when you polish the chamber you want to make up some blanking valves or use old valves so again you don't nic the seat.

This wasn't finished (not i didn't do the porting) but you can see that you can also decrease the thickness of the fin between the ports, again becareful not to remove too much and puncture or weak the port. If you read up about flow in pipes it directly relates to air flow in ports. boundary layers, turblance is other things to have a good knowledge on.

http://sae.cside.com/sae/kat/pc/ern002/ern002.htm http://www011.upp.so-net.ne.jp/kat/ haha

Generally when you do work to a port/head you will gain CFM but lose VELOCITY... A good porter will be able to increase both. A lot of people go balls out for cfm but they kill the velocity of the port and wonder why it doesn't go as well as they thought it would... Tip 1 = Do not start going down the path of removing lots of metal if you do not know what your doing! Tip 2 = Remove the as cast surface using no smoother than 150 grit sandpaper rolls. removing the as cast surface can increase flow by 4-8% depending on casting quality. if you make it too smooth you will increase the boundry layer effect (think golf balls). Tip 3 = Make friends with some one with a flow bench. Tip 4 = find a spare head thats F!@Ked... find someone with a bandsaw and cut down the lengths of the port (as close to the center line of the port as possible. This will let you see the material thickness along the port as if you go too deep and puncture the water jacket thats it buy a new head Tip 5 = Port the head to the CAMS YOUR USING OR INTEND TO USE! not point making a port that flows amazingly at 11mm lift when your cams only go to 8mm. Tip 6 = Port matching - blend the intake port to the intake manifold port to make it as smooth a transition as possible will prevent turbulance with the air moving between the two. Same with the exhaust ports and exhaust manifold Biggest area of possible gain depending on manufactures, is typically the port wall to valve seat inside edge alignment. I've seen a few shocking heads, some with as much as 3mm overhang... this will kill flow over the seat or into the port depending on the way it's overhung... for example (this is hard to do with out a picture): ....\ ......\ <--- seat ...| ...| <---- port wall... i would call this overhang ..\ ....\ <---- seat .....| .....| <--- port wall i would say well blended \ ..\ <--- seat ......| ......| <---- port wall underhang... Go and sit with the experienced engine builderÂ