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Everything posted by swordfish
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Hey got your PM will try to make so photos on the weekend...
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But you would still think that BMW M5 if a family saloon car for spirited drivers and R35 GTR is a sport coupe for racing. I mean how many M5s do you see in professional race series? Probably none. How many GTRs? That is a very different question. I would want to see new GTR vs E92 M3 CSL Both had similar production date as well
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Lol Sorry Glenn... Was at work and my bosses name is Greg. Probably was thinking how he would kick my ass if he saw me on the forum during work. Hence, the mix up Hahahahaha
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These are two different class cars. I would think, they would have to compare GTR and M3 to get a fair comparison.
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You should be able to see whether it is rotating in the wrong motion more oval than circular (e.g. some blade edges are shaved off or if you shine the light between the fan and your clutch see if there is any marks or signs of wear on the water pump shaft). My bearing was pretty bad so I had both back and forward movements as well as side to side. It is most likely to vibrate more when your car is warm because you fan clutch is engaging the fan more when the car gets warmer, mine was exactly the same! I did the procedure Greg has described, just held the fan when the other person started the car. I wouldn't say it was the safest one though lol I would try move it side to side and look for that wear on the blades first. Cheers
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I have a full set of Genuine BBS RGs for the 3 series 8J ET 38 fronts and 9J ET 41 rears. They have some curbing though, so I am not sure if you would be interested or not, but PM if you are.
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I am not sure what kind of vibration you get, but I would check the fan clutch! I had similar vibration on my M3. And I've noticed that bearing on the fan clutch was very loose, so the fan would create vibration through the whole car, as it wasn’t rotating in a perfect circle. It would have been very ugly if it would break while driving. Apparently makes a big mess in under the hood. So I would check it just in case.
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Looking for these wheels OE E34 M5 wheels 17x8" et20 and rears 17
swordfish replied to swordfish's topic in Want to buy
Still looking -
The fact that ruins imports of such massive items is delivery cost and custom charges. In addition Americans charge NZ prices is US dollars which is ridiculous. Adding all this up together I would be able to buy brand new BBS wheels with the exact offset and sizes I need. In reality I am just looking whether anyone on here have them laying is their storage and would like to sell them for a reasonable price to get some cash on their hand. Cheers
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As in the topic. Maybe someone has them lying around waiting for a better day. Maybe today is the day? Pic
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Hey, What are the specs on those? I mean offset and width? Cheers
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Putting brand new suspension into it that is why I have bought brand new tops Love you strut bar!!! Looks mean and solid!
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I plan to install Evo tops in reverse as well. Did it make any difference? Some say it makes steering a bit hard...
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Found this while watching this video pretttyyyy cooooool
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I have two Australian made and two China made on my car at the moment the only difference I've noticed between the two is faster wear.
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This guy is a legend for me now!!! Hahahahahaha
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I don't think there were carbon GT lips, the Genuine GT lip is plastic. I can't see the reason for it to be soooo expensive on Turners unless they give you the whole GT kit; the lip and a special M-spec bumper, apparently non-GT M-spec bumper is different and won’t fit the Genuine lip, also Genuine one is put together part by part (splitters plus lip plus under tray) the aftermarket one is one piece and it screws onto the M-spec bumper.
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How much do you want for your throwing stars?
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So do I, that is why I am trying to read posts from different countries including russia and scandinavia (thats where I am from) I will look into doing what you have described above, hopefully it will all end up to be a win win situation for me. I appreciate your help!
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I am sure most of M3 owners will be wondering why am I changing anything at all, right? Just put stock struts in and new springs and I would be fine. I bought the parts with a certain purpose, to make my car to handle better, although most of you would think that it wouldn't work and it would be even worse. But I would like to believe that as soon as I get this set up to work properly it will be great. The coilovers were getting great reviews on American websites, they are designed on the Nurberg Ring and made in Germany. The have read a lot about the rest of the mods as well and they will be done for a number of reasons; some of those you have already discussed here.
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This is exactly what my plan and the purpose of this is... The wheels I am looking for are no more than 15-20mm different in offset, which with new set up will not give me too much problem as they will remain under arches. I will also keep all the stock setting using adjustments on the arms and the coilovers. I am changing the hats as I have read it is the best mode to get a perfect set up on the early E36 M3s, surely it will increase uneven tyre wear, but it is supposed to make it more stable in corners due to greater traction from the front wheels.
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Why would you want to sell these??? They look awesome!!! Probably way out of my price range though
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I have a chance to get E46 M3 wheels, the rear wheels are going to fit fine, but fronts are ET41 I think, so not so good, but I might get spacers for the front
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Ok the answer to your question is "I think" in relation to my car. I haven't tried to put the coilovers on my car YET! But "I know" it is not going to fit as I have done tones of research on these coilovers and the guy from the company, who sold me those told me that I will need at least 5 mm spacers on the front and 10mm on the rear, but he didn't take into account that I have 18" 9J wheels at the back with ET41 offset and 8J with ET38 in the front. So my idea was to find good staggered set of E34 wheels and slam them on (preferably 17s). I have adjustable rear control arms from Turner Motorsport to get everything properly in balance and will be using Evo strut tops in reverse order to get more negative camber as my M3 is pre Evo (pre-Evo version has less negative camber due to its undeveloped front suspension geometry). I hope this will clarify the picture for you guys. I really appreciate your input into this!
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Pics please!