Ahmedsinc

Had the same thing happen to my mums Astra, caught a dirty great big rock on the metal road leading to her place. Tore a 7x35mm ish hole through the sump, lost total contents of engine in about 15 seconds. Towed the car back home courtesy of neighbour with 4wd ute, removed sump and had a local alloy fabricator weld the bugger together - total cost was less than $100 if memory serves Will Knead-It still keep its bond under temp and exposure to oil?

Cheers Dylan - We've got til July before the outlaws return, if it looks like a donor car import is on the cards I'll be sure to touch base with you for what you know Thanks for all the useful info guys!

Thanks for the link Glenn, that answers all of my questions and then some! If it requires certing the pressure goes on to find a donor for minimal cost, otherwise it may well turn out to be more cost effective just to buy an M here! Or just save all the dicking about and get the 540

No real intention of selling it if it ever happens. Only reason we're considering it is we can bring a decent amount of machinery back for significantly less than buying a whole car here and for the fun of a total transplant project. Considering the cheapest M3 I've seen recently on trademe was asking over 15k, importing and transferring the gear over is still a cheaper method, albeit not by a great deal. And there's something to keep me out of the missus' hair for a few months Win-win really. Anyone got any idea whether such a project would require a cert?

My brother in law is currently over in the UK and we've been eyeing up a couple of E36 M3s that courtesy of the salt the poms lay on the roads in winter are little more than swiss cheese structurally. The idea is to load a couple into a container and ship em here, then transplant full mechanicals etc into willing donor bodies here. Cost wise it's reasonable compared to buying a similar M here and the rebuild process should be less painful than trying to source all the bits individually here. Only thing we're a little fuzzy on is the import duties, has anyone else here done something similar so we can get an idea of the tax nazis cut once the cars reach port? Thanks

Where would one find an ATK on the web?

Turned out to be the ZKE module, popped it open and there is some scorching on the circuit board adjacent to the relevant plug. Did take a look at the boot harness and there was minor fraying on the actuator wires which I've soldered and heatshrinked to discourage any more shorts. Thanks for the help

bump

Hi all - can anyone give me a location for the central locking module,'94 E36 325i? The unit still locks the car from the boot but does not unlock. Central locking still works fine from the doors. Am tracing what I suspect is a cable fault on the boot module, namely the white/blue trace (NC) The microswitch in the locking module tested ok for continuity, and I've jumpered from the common to both NC and NO to confirm - car locks when the NO is jumpered but doesn't unlock. The Haynes manual tells me the central can be controlled by it's own unit OR by the ZKE - can someone tell me which unit will be fitted to my car so I don't have to tear apart both sides of the dashboard? Highly frustrated thanks in advance! (Car does not have remote locking from key fob, just in case that's useful)

Hey all Looking for a straight and reasonably tidy CalypsoRot left rear door shell for an E36 AND a front (Kidney grille) panel to suit. Seems to be a surplus of hell red panels around but bugger all calypso If anyone can help out, 021 911 004 Cheers, Matt

Hi guys anyone know where I can get my hands on a trailer light module to suit an E36? Or ways to install the harness without needing a module? Thanks

Would the ram modules suit suit a 5,1 iMac?

OK, so further things to scratch your heads over! Replaced the control panel on Wed (Thanks Brent!) with a good unit, resulted in no change. Recirc, a/c switch and rear demist buttons still don't light up or function and we're still flowing nothing but hot air into the cabin. Have done a little googling on the matter and have found threads blaming the heater control valve AND the heater taps. Going by what I've seen so far the likelihood is the control valve, though I am starting to tire with buying parts that may or may not cure the problem. As a footnote I have replaced the thermostat, thermo housing, water pump, viscous fan coupling and a new all alloy radiator inside the last 8 weeks - the heater has only started faulting since then - any correlation? Fuses are all good, and I'm assuming the relays are too. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Gah!!! There goes my week off! Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen

Hey all Within the past two months my partner commented on a peculiar 'burnt' smell in the cabin of our 325i. The odour seemed to subiside after about 48 hours and so far has not returned. Oddly enough there are three LEDs that occasionally stay illuminated on the recirc, a/c and rear demister buttons. It doesn't have any regular pattern to when the lights stay on, but the heater keeps flowing hot air irrespective of what position the temp dials are set to. This wasn't much of an issue in winter but as summer appraoches I'd really like to get this one sussed out. The heater blower still functions fine and dandy but I'm getting well sick of having to dirve around with all windows open in Aucklands shite spring weather Any suggestions to where I should start hunting for faults?

Never knew there was a difference between euro and rest of the world spec in that regard! The item I have my eyes on is here http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-400323709.htm seems to have the holes at the top to allow mounting of auto tranny cooler, bracket to the left matches my one, bleed hose nipple, inlet / outlet hoses and drain points are all identical. Still curious to why the seller claims they're only suitable for manuals! Thanks for the input

Hi all My '94 325i has decided to collapse the upper radiator plastic hose inlet this afternoon. I'd sooner replace the unit with one that has alloy tanks than the stock plastic items, but the only ones I've seen on Trademe state that they are only suitable for manuals. Can anyone tell me why they won't fit an auto? Failing that if someone here can sell me a new alloy radiator to suit an auto that would be great. Cheers!

Ok, so the tail light was just an incorrectly fitted bulb holder..... dumbass!! Have done a bit of looking around on foreign BMW forums and most responses recommend replacing the holders Can anyone suggest where I can get some in Auckland? Better yet if they open on Sundays? Thanks

Hi guys Failed WoF on drivers brake light this morning, removed the bulb to discover one of the flexible contacts had nearly completely corroded away. Mostly because I'm a cheap bastard I fashioned up a flat section of copper to replace the buggered steel tab and promptly blew the fuse. After replacing the offending part the passenger brake light has also quit working but strangely the high stop light still works just fine. Also the drivers tail light has gone on strike but the passenger side still works fine. Am at a bit of a loss here - any ideas?

Hi guys. Courtesy of Repco being a hopeless bunch of muppets I'm still in the hunt for a new pair of knock sensors to suit an E36 325i. Would prefer to stay away from the franchise BMW dealers as I don't have a first born son to sell to pay their prices. While I'm thinking of it, has anyone here tried the generic OBD fault code readers from Repco? Any good or should I save my money and take it to a workshop with GT1 instead? Cheers all

Hey, is this still available?

Probably a bit late, but does anyone else have one of these for sale?Do they interface via a laptop or are they a stand-alone unit? Apologies for the noob questions but I'd really like to diagnose my own problems without dropping 15 large on the full GT1 system!!

BTW....mmmmmm, E39 540...you suck!!

Dammit!!! I can't argue with that LMAO IN saying that, its quieter and colder...kinda like the town that Valium forgot really

Thanks guys. Can't tell from the pics if its a single or twin entry setup, would it be worth modifying it to suit the B25 or will the diameter of the pipes be on the restrictive side? Am toying with the idea of a stainless 2 1/4" straight system with headers if the budget allows, substituting the cats for a primary dampener leading to a wide bore secondary silencer. The volume annoys the missus more than it does me, as she drives it more than I do I'm trying to achieve the compromise between noise and performance (I know I'm pushing sh*t uphill here). Given the chance I'd love to strap a supercharger on the side (perfect tradeoff - heaps more power and oh so subtle!) but as she has Veto priviledges whaddya do?!