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Posts posted by B.M.W Ltd
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The valve is there to stop sudden, violent vacuum advance / retard operation in the distributor causing timing and points bounce issues
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Are these LED? Give them a really good check for stress cracks
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I hope they aren't like Mercedes ones I got for the motor home (Ebay) started cracking on the bench even before fitting. They didn't get fitted. Got a set from the UK instead.
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The water Inlet & outlet fittings on the hose ends often get blocked too
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18 minutes ago, adro said:Not sure if suspension was loaded when it was checked for play. I’ll ask Jon tomorrow.
You need someone in the car to shake the wheel while on the hoist and check by feel or with a stethoscope
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From memory the diagram is showing two systems !2 & 16 are both dampers. It can have either/or. 16 is a plastic damper and 12 is a heavier mounted one. I could be wrong. Long time since I worked on these
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Has the front suspension been checked for play on a four post hoist so that the suspension is loaded in the driving position being on all four wheels ?
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4 minutes ago, C-130 Hercules said:Gl320cdi / Om642.940
Good luck....I'd get the engine hot before starting the job so it's warm by the time you get there.
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Your on to it. What vehicle/engine are you doing this on ?
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I might also add: Do a lot more research and only use the correct tools before you attempt to do the job. This varies quite a bit with different models and engine types.
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10 hours ago, C-130 Hercules said:Hi Team - looking to buy some ceramic grease for glow plug fitting. Any recommendations for good product and where to buy? Cheers!
I've used this on many diesel motors in the past. Max operating temp is 1200'c https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/Copper-paste-CU-800-PAST-CU-800-TUBE-100G/08938001.sku/WuerthGroup-Wuerth.cgid/en/GB/NZD/?VisibleSearchTerm=Copper+grease
Be very careful and use the correct tools
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Did you have a sprung center plate ?
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We used the same boosters back in the late 80's early 90's to replace 2002 brake boosters. The system worked well and wasn't that hard to do.
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What parts/type/brand are you using in your Combo X example Ron ? and is this the combo you will use in your vehicle?
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I stand corrected. You learn something every day. I found this:
https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tech-tip-bmw-tpms-systems/
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P codes won't help. It could be a number of things. You need to get it diagnosed by a BMW specialist or the dealer otherwise you'll end up with empty pockets and getting nowhere. It's more than likely to be air leaks
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The bracket would look better done on a 3D printer in black or a colour to suit the engine bay colour
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My clutch setup was still running fine when I sold the car in 2018
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Just posting this here rather than hijack someone elses thread. Brings back allot of memories of way back then
http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/20977-e36-m50m52-manual-conversion/
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After reading all this I would conclude that the problem is wear in the back circles of the camshaft lobes, and or wear in the back circle lobes of the eccentric shaft causing the hydraulic lifters to pump up which in turn will not allow the valves to close and seal properly. Had this once on a merc (another horror story) It needs to be diagnosed by someone conversant with the product rather than the local garage.
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The tyre pressure monitoring works by diagnosing from the wheel speed sensors. They don't have sensors inside the wheel
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I nearly purchased a new Honda NSX but it didn't have enough room for the kids. I got a new Celica 2000GT instead
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I'd just go to what has been proven to work for DIY applications. It's not like we have to enter F1 specifications to have a bit of fun and enjoy doing it.
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New Daily - Manual 130i
in Showroom
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Any updates Dan ?