_Matt_

charcoal RS reps would look mean.

Can't find any :/ it would be nice to be able to tourque it correctly.

I'll be helping my old man install his new shocks soon and wondered if anyone had this tool I could borrow? When I installed mine I just used a pipe wrench and thats what the majority of DIY threads say to use but if I could do it properly the second time round that would be great...

Decided to replace the TPS and briefly thought it fixed the issue but after a few fast stops it stalled again. I thought of replacing the PS Pump because the idle drops when steering quickly and braking fast but it also drops quite dramatically when the AC is on. Maybe the TPS just needs adjusting? Interesting thing is since replacing the TPS the brake warning light illuminates when the ignition Is on and the brake pads light briefly illuminates when I turn over the engine.

The idle has been 650 since I've owned it. I have adjusted the AFM so the arm is running on a fresh surface (it works great when blipping the throttle) I could adjust the idle using the screw by the IVC but that would just be a temporary solution. vac leak, probable...but where do I start? haha. tps, the car does shudder when releasing the accelerator and the idle fluctuates a bit so maybe this is a problem...I do have a spare from a B34 I could swap it over and try that out.

it idles around 650 and as soon as I steer left to right it starts dropping... with ac on steering becomes harder and idle drops to around 550-600 I forgot to pump the brakes at the same time but the idle does drop a bit when I pump the brakes (did that earlier today)

So I've checked the engine mount earths, injector earths, rocker cover earth, made sure all fuses and relays have good connections. Battery and terminals are tight and clean. There are no loose connections around the ignition yet I still have the problem. An important thing I noticed when going for a test drive was... No matter how fast I am going if I hit the brakes and stop then release the pedal (in quick succession of course) the engine will not stall and not even seem to drop below idle speed. But No matter how fast I am going if I hit the brakes and stop without releasing the pedal it will instantly stall. I guess this possibly eliminates that it's could be something loose or moving...

I'll thourouhly go through this list and get back you you. It's still the original m30b28 and I have no alarm.

Interesting, it must have something to do with the brake system as the idle drops a bit if a hold the brakes when stationary. The wired thing is, if I'm stationary and slam the brakes, nothing really happens but if i'm moving, even at walking pace and slam the brakes it stalls. The terminals feel fine but I'll check again tomorrow. If it's the brakes I wouln't know where to begin checking haha, and I'm sure it's had leaks since I've owned it

Go! First noticed this in the weekend. Engine just stalled after hard braking. It stalled again this morning under pretty standard braking so this evening I fully cleaned out the ICV and cleaned and recalibrated the afm. It now idles smoothly and is a lot more responsive but still cuts out after hard braking. Other things to check are - fuel filter - battery terminals - earth points - leaks around brake master cylinder Anything else I should check? E28 528i

Do you pay extra for the missing roof lining?

those 20" look stupid. just my 2c. 19s might be more suitable.

8k I think. Which is alright considering the much cooler wheels, suspension, full exhaust system, adjustable strut bar full leather & bose stereo. The guy who owned it in Jap was an Alfa nut obviously.

Was in because the spark plugs were shot, all 8 :/ Needed a new thermostat and it had a dodgy airbag connection that was bringing up the error. Gearbox has been fine, the + paddle can sometimes play up but that's just electrical I hope. GTA would be nice, 3x the price though

Already been to the garage once, my partner has had it for a week...but I can't help but love the look.

They are obviously a pro photographer. They have a DSLR!

I like the second the best, maybe tone down the saturation on the field in the back ground a bit and it would be perfect. Pretty nice post-processing.

Shadow line that window trim

The pic shown is a bridged 2 channel, yes. (always read rms, that is the wattage that matters) And to power a dual coil sub properly will cost, so I suggest getting a single coil if you dont wanna spend the money.

This is what my wiring looks like. 2 channel amp to D4 sub. copy that and you will be right. although you will still only be sending 150w to your 350w sub which isn't ideal.

not bad for a crash at 186mph

Put in my 4th and final alternator, this one works like new finally. Thanks Grant

I wish my parter (who needs a car) liked BMWs I hate seeing these sweet deals pop up and I can never convince her haha.

It looks like it's towing James's E30 Cab...ask him? http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showuser=3670

where is that sweet piss take vid about checking your dizzy mark?