_Matt_

well you have to completely remove both front struts to install springs so a wheel alignment would be wise. as glen mentioned.

I want the same bulbs yet super cheap and repco only have the ones with offset pins. I need pins directly opposite each other. Any ideas? +1 on revive rather than new thread

a wreckers. 90% of ones from trade me are fake and fade and don't look original to begin with.

take away the lights and grill and it looks like a Honda.

it only began after I installed shocks and springs so I don't think its the pedal and I didn't disconnect any brake lines to disrupt pressure. Ill try this next. I wonder if super cheap has copper grease.

Uninstalled calipers, cleaned sliders, pads and pistons with brakleen and wire brush. Re-installed, turned car on hit brakes. No difference they are stuck to the point where I have to put a decent amount of effort into turning the rotors with my hands.

I replaced all my shocks and springs the other day and since I've done that my front wheels don't spin freely due to the pads holding onto the rotors. I thought it was because I didn't install them properly but I fixed it and as soon as I drove again the pad have reverted back to holding onto the rotors. My bro says my old calipers might not be contracting properly after releasing the brakes. Could this be it? Advice?

if the car was black maybe

250? It's just broken in haha

the cog has probably broken inside the cluster, same thing happened on my e28. Annoying thing is it's the only cog that is stuck on with thread lock stuff so it's almost impossible to take a good condition one off of a spare cluster. I managed to fix mine but admittedly I did split the replacement cog a little (still works though)

what is a good alternative to naval jelly? Something that will stay on metal rather than a liquid style rust remover. want it to clean up an engine block.

will do, keep the ideas coming while I check it

I asked about this a while ago but didn't get any replies. I wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction so I could fix the problem. Basically when I drive through water it feels like my power steering cuts off. So I almost hit islands etc when cornering. Today after turning a corner I continued steering side to side and after about 5 seconds it felt like it just turned back on. Questions, if it was a power steering issue would I really notice a problem steering side to side when going straight at 50ks? If so, how the heck is water effecting my power steering? TIA

If you lose traction around a corner in a FWD and the 1st reaction is to let go of the accalerator, this will apply engine braking and lock up the front wheels, steering will lock and you will slide wherever the car was going in the first place so applying power and pointing the way you want to go is always the best thing in a front wheel drive slide. So basically, FWD are safer than RWD until you lose traction. I don't know about you guys but my 1st reaction is taking my foot of everything

already sorted. will be downloading from FTP in the US, wont be tracked.

In RWD take your foot off the accelerator, that will apply engine braking to the rear wheels and point you in the way you are steering. Only accelerate in FWD to prevent sliding into wherever you are pointing. Oh, and easy thing to do to help out with traction. deflate your tires to 20 or so PSI

but both those things are advantages

I have one, Its gonna be a refurb project.

all forums are like this. If you have some know how, resize them before uploading to the net because it takes a fraction of the time. otherwise use the auto resize on image uploaders like imageshack.

I've been waiting for a front spoiler since I bought the car and wasted not time fitting it once I found one. Dropped it on Billies and H&Rs last weekend so It's pretty much how I want it. Eventually Ill be putting in the B34

Same car different day

Na Bro, moved in Jan. In Burnside now

after a month or so of sweet beats I took the enclosure out to get to my suspension struts. I got Lazy when installing it again and didn't disconnect the battery. so + met - and pop. I saw the amp fuses flash so i checked them but they are OK, I checked the fuses in the engine bay and they are OK. the head unit reset itself and both that and my amp/sub woofer still run. Problem is I have minimal control over my amp now from the head unit. I can set the level of base but can't set base gain, frequency, I cant even turn it on or off. Can anyone help? Edit: I just remembered I have one pair of RCAs plugged into the sub out and another into the front pre-outs. So I may have plugged the wrong set into my amp. Ill test soon haha. Edit 2: Yip, fixed. Good one Matt

have finished installing my full set of H&Rs and Bilsteins. It feels like a whole new car

a new banner wouldn't go a miss