MoJoJoe

That was the Batman, Trying to prevent his real identify from being revealed since moving to eu.

Sorry for the delay guys, I had to be somewhere yesterday and spent most of the day on the road in a uncomfortable nightmare car(Subaru) or on foot walking around my father's friends work sector. On my way back home they closed the motorway to my place so had to drive around quite a bit. I fell really sick and caught a feaver when I reached home due to no food intake. So anyway, the scanner tool from M3AN arrived yesterday, I managed to open it up and have a peek last night but went out this morning and tried it on my car. Really liked the scanner, strangely I didn't know something useful as this actually existed for customers unless you had some big garage. So anyway, it took me less than 10 mins to figure it out and get the codes and it was just as I suspected, (from what I could gather from reading earlier about this issue and then my millimeter tests). Its the The Crank and Cam Shaft Sensors, I wrote down the codes somewhere but lost the paper, but I pretty much remember them off the top of my head 1. Cam Position Sensor 2. Crank Shaft Senso 3. O2 Sensor 4. Cyl 1 - 3. 5. Fuel Pump Relay Now I have a pretty sure feeling that the O2 sensor and issue in Cyl 1-3 is due to the Cam Position / Crank Shaft Sensors. And the fuel Pump Relay was an issue that the previous owner had addressed since I saw marked different coloured relays in place with sharpie marks. anyway so now the repair process begins, I will be keeping this scanner for a few weeks so when its all done I will drive the car around and then scan it again before I return it back.

I am just replacing 2 Components. 1 is the crank shaft sensor, which is Dead. And 2. the Cam Sensor which is stamped 1995. SO I figured why not replace that as well? I want to use brand new parts so that's running me $300 from Milland. That's it. Rest is some oil leaks I have I want to fix. No offence but I fail to see how can I make things MORE economical? Or how's that replacing every part just for the hell of it? Unless you want me to buy second hand old worn out 15 - 20 year old sensors that may likely have higher chances of failure and get me stuck in the middle of a highway (like that day) and me having to call a tow truck for a $200 ~ $300 to tow me home + then having to repalce them again with new ones?? Sounds better if I get new ones to begin with. Can you imagine my car shutting down as I make a tight corner, I could create a situation that could kill me and others all because some $150 sensor decided "wont work right now".... So if I dont really have any unexpected crashes with my 328i, hopefully these sensors should last many years and the car would make a happy new owner of whomever I sell it to when I am gone. The garage I know in town asked $80/hr + some $100 diagnostics fees or something. Cant remember but there I have around $200 out of pocket and would had probably ended up with the mac/sparkey finding the the same bad sensors that I would had to replace on top. I just went reading some guides and how the sensors work together then I went to pulling them out to eliminate the possible parts and testing them out with the dinosaur (but accurate) way. Besides this way I learn something too, at the expense of my time yes. But depends the way you see it really. I dont mind as I don't have a job right now, get bored & I'm out of Uni at the moment. I am not bragging to be rich or anything by any means, maybe just a bit well off and different then most young guys my age but I am all up for economical solutions, trust me. But honestly if I wanted economical I would had bought a honda or a 316is. And If I wanted power I could had bought an nice e36 M3 for 15K (I can still afford one!). But I restrict myself to a budget and picked a above average 328i with a nice suspension, engine and m body enough to keep me happy (and pick up some kiwi girls walking home from school while I am in town ) Footnote: You do contradict yourself as well, intentionally(?) maybe I don't know. You come off saying "Not meaning to be nasty," then you go off insulting me saying "A scanner is only good for someone with a brain". Implying what you did. :| I dont mean to be rude but honestly I came here to ask for help, if some body would help me and lead me to the right direction then that would be good for me, i cant really give them anything in return than a thank you note, if not then thank you anyway, perhaps somebody else will help me help myself. I asked you in the beginning and you responded by laughing and brushing me off; now that I nearly have my issue solved you come insult me. So I am damned if I do and damned if I dont. lol... I dont see how this helps me really, watching old men sitting on a fence laughing and talking about pop corn as I wonder abouts left and right for help infront of you. honestly no offence but you and your popcorn friend gave me the impression that you are the kind of guys who have some deep rooted vendetta on me for what I have said in the forum or to one of your friends at an earlier time, and you would rather watch me fail and screw over at what I do, I dont think you couldn't care less what I spent. Sorry if you really harbor different feelings towards me and wanted to help but thats just how i felt you came off to me initially.

I asked for information about chips or remaps, their availability and recommendations, to make best out of my car and regain some lost torque ( if possible) if I do a m50 manifold. I didnt come here to debate on numbers, manuals, automatics, elementary physics and crayons. What were you expecting me to deliver, a pair of balls? at least I can afford to buy another one if I ditch it and pay the repair bills too out of my own pocket! so up yours karl and your 525i land boat. It is! he's just lying. ....he probably had a bad day so hes here to push his weight and take it out on me. but I gotta run.. @westy can we close this topic please, think its run its course and now going to turn into a useless troll fest. I found my answer, I am not gonna chip or remap anything unless I go manual. I will try the m50 manifold mod just to try out the myth.

Thanks, but how did you know it was the fuel pump? Code scanners cant tell that can it? So I am guessing you changed it as preventive maintenance? I really hope my fuel pump isn't dead. I doubt it because I tested the 2 sensors and the crank sensor turned out to be dead. And if it was the fuel pump it would have issues when its going on for hours and hot? Not when its slowing down? But certainly doing some reading and searching on google and online turned out that the 3 culprits are the cam sensor, crank sensor or the fuel pump/regulator. My explanation after reading a lot of topics is that if your Crank and Cam sensors aren't working properly this is the problem you run into. So I guess it was on its way out or that the fact that it would heat up and stop working and wont let the car crank until it cooled down. So what would happen in the freeway was that the air and clutch fan would cool it. but driving below the 20kmh at the city traffic would soon cause the sensor to overheat and work poorly/not at all, causing my car to stall. I think my cam sensor is good but I am replacing it anyway as preventive maintenance and the fact that it may be next since the other one kind of failed. Wish me your best, I plan on fixing up the car by this time next week.

I have 2 Spares. But not in this design. do you need one regular BMW one? I have a friend in auckland and can leave it with him.

look friend, why are you being so defensive all of a sudden? I am not denying it. I agree with you & westy. Its Basic Science & Physics. Energy Lost in Friction/Transferring Power = Heat. Did I say that was not the case? I was just speculative of your numbers (hp output of these cars lost) in rwkw, it sounded a little bit off since all I have seen were US dynos. But that would make sense if the us dynos are inflating the numbers to keep customers coming. Anyway, I was just curious to know, numbers aren't that important to me, I am sure in the right condtion/situation/remap/manual the m50 manifold would make noticable a difference, specially in track condtions. The previous owner included the m50 manifold and hardware when I bought the car. I am taking off my current one apart for vacuume/oil leaks so might as well install the m50 and see. Most of the info I came across was from US forums where people swear by it. I can reverse it if I dont like it. I am just learning my car, Topic was about just to learn of options in regards to a chip or remap to regain the torque loss in the low end. I dont see how your reaction was called for. Also is your Greek remark meant to racially tease me somehow? As if we dont?

Good news guys, M3AN sent the Code Reader, should have it by tomorrow, though I will be out till the afternoon, should still be able to pull out some codes. . I have it all planned out. after i put in the sensors I will be addressing the oil leaks on the gasket and oil filter housing. the rocker cover seems to be the main culprit of the leak but I can see some oil near the oil filter, power steering and perhaps a bit near the dip stick. hopefully not too hard of a repair once I have the gaskets, orings and seals. should be do able in a day (i hope) lies, all big fat lies. 11 hr journey , he and she escaping out to the woods.. nope, doesn't look a hair older than 63. i see now that viagra can do wonders.

thats what I was thinking aswell. i have them at hand so though I'd do it. I will just do the gaskets and spark plugs and regular maintenence + the manifold and call it a day then, no chips, no tune, no nothing, and just let the obd 2 adjust itself the best it can. the auto should still respond to the mods just not as well utilized as a manual. Dont want to shell out to convert to a manual at the moment. maybe later on will have ray @ hell bm do it for me.

you can get them from ebay for like $80NZD and on trademe for around $140. Quite tempting..

How about using Beru Platinum? Milland said they are the Beru equivalent of the BKR6EQUP?

I am finally going to be doing some general maintenence on my e36 1995 328i (150kms) in the next 2 weeks. Will be using some degreser to clean out the engine bay from the grease, oil and blood, replacing the spark plugs out with new ones, new oil filter, reoil the air filter, address the oil leaks abd gaskets, install the m50 manifold and and anyother other mechanical issues I can think of. Following which I will be installing my Xbrace, Exhaust setup, and have my wheel with curb marks repainted white. then rework on my interior and C panels and call it a day. So Questions What spark plugs do I need and whats the size for the M52 motor? (I know its BOSH Platinum) How much and what kind of engine oil should I use (its got 150km's on it) What are the common Oil Leak Locations? From the oil around the top of the engine, I notice the valve Cover Gasket needs to be replaced. What else? The whole oil filter housing gasket and the dipstick o ring? Should Milland have all the gaskets and o rings? Whatst he easiest way to clean up the engine bay from oil and grease so I can tell the oil leak? I am planing to take out the front bumper and put the car on ramps and go under it, look for any missing bolts and then and spray the degreaser and then wash down later with a hose. please add to anything I may be missing. thanks

after looking at some pictures, I think I am sold, I will have my bbs wheels painted white, That way I can get them all done and would look nicer and would be overall cheaper too

Did you buy that black one that was up on trademe asking price was around 12K? A bit high at 280kms but still pretty good deal. Wish I could had that I bought my 328i for around 6K, so far will have spent nearly 8K on my car (now these unfortunate sensors and wheel curbs came up) and I am ready to call it enough as I plan to leave nz in a few years. Most of the "good" M3's I saw here are around 15K. Still good buy

one thing I forgot to add, for those who really push and edge out their e36's both non m and and the m3's at the track or out in the twisty mountain road's. The e36 has a chassis tearing issue (google it) which was addressed in the m3 by adding chassis reinforcements around the rear. what happens is if your car has old worn out bushing and you dont replace them and keep pushing your car it will eventually have this issue, even M3's have had them, or thats what I read. But repalcing the bushings avoids this issue entirely. I am curious, how much did you pay for your m3? and what kind of km / service history did it have?

I dont mind, a chip will be better then running nothing I guess. I just want to better out the engine output and overall regain (some) of the torque and hp loss at lower end/lower revs i hear you get from doing the m50 manifold. Where can I get a Chip in NZ and from whom? I want to leave gavin @ hi velocity if I really mod my engine with cams and other stuff.

the other 3 are pretty good, I wont say perfect, they have a small curb here or there but not noticeable unless you are looking for them and at 1 foot distance, I wonder what white wheels would look like on my blue car? Ghetto or ricer? just incase I cant get the right colour? The guy I know is has 20 year exprience in painting but I am not sure if he can get the right code. So rather have them all done and painted white or something. othersise I may just hire the wheel specialists for a few hundread to fix this up lessor learned when pushing cars to the side of the road. dont take them too close to the curb and dont let a woman help you push either. her finger nails just scratch your paint job and...ahhh. I hate curbed wheels!!!!!!

No no I am not talking about the plastic body that hides the wire behind the tstat/water pump housing away from the fan. I am talking about taking out the sensor itself. once I have it unplugged and unbolted its stuck between the vanos housing. I had to cut and trim it. google didn't turn much up, I will look on youtube and post back. edit...okay found this on Google. apparently you have to remove that metal bracket on the the front of the engine and vanos this is a nice DIY (but without any pictures) http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37546

Is that company a Auckland based only or will they service northland aswell? I guess I will have to ring them up but doesn't sound bad either way. I know this guy who can paint cars and runs a small operation. Do you think I could have them sanded down, filled and painted? And is that the same colour as the rims so they look original? I dont want colored rims like black or something. lol.

Thanks, I think the US Dyno systems are different then our NZ ones, even counting in the other factors I dont these engines losing that kind of power if well maintained over the years. Even with Auto I dont see how more than 15% - 20% loss of power in drive train can happen. the car should have 193HP at the flywheel which after a 15% loss is around 165 - 170rwhp so thats around 125kw. Anyway, at the end of the day these are only numbers I am not really intrested in them that much, the car feels good and fast enough and I like it for what it is. I will do the M50 manifold swap since I have everything here and the fact that I think the old one is leaking. I wonder if the torque loss is a myth or actually noticeable?? @ eagle a manual conversion is too much hassle + price of getting it done from a shop, it doesn't bother me much, If i wanted manual I would had started off with a manual one instead, but those are hard to come across in good condtion and shape. As for my mods, I have installed a 3.64 lsd with new oil, is that better or worse than a 3.15 lsd? I Was going to get the exhaust cat deleted and a remus installedi n place with a few other mods like the M50 done this week before i ran into these problems. So back on topic. I'll see if I can get a chip done otherwise I will get Gavin to remap it for me. I have too much on my plate right now.so first l I must fix things up and get the oil leaks and any vaccume leaks sorted out, Ps: speaking of chips, what are my options as of now? any chips off the shelf to run with my m50 manifold, searching the forum didn't bring out much.

I "think" I found the culprit. I took out and tested the crankshaft sensor today, it was right underneath the lower radiator hose. I tested it but didnt get any resistence / mesurements from it, i even cut the wires off to mesure it but still no numbers. it also had the craking and flaking pvc insulation issue on the wires where they were touching each other. I think its pretty much dead. But with that sensor dead can the car still crank and run for hundreads of kilometers untill it starts behaving like that one day? Anyway, I will hopefully get the code reader from M3AN in the next few days and confrim the codes I read and post back. PS: How do You take the thing off?? Biggest issue I had was taking it out of the car, it was stuck between the vanos housing. Do I have to remove the vanos housing bolts to put a new one in? since it goes through the vanos housing and there is just not enough clearence to remove it. I had to cut and trim the connector to make it come through.

I had some small usual curb marks on my wheels when I got the car, but now my front passenger side wheel is badley curbed from a few days ago when I had to push damn car to the side of the road. Know any reputable shops around Northland and Auckland? How much am i looking at to have it restored?

No offence but do they really they make around 112kw at the wheels? I find that hard to believe as I have read they make around 170rwhp stock so thats around 127rwkw? and usually these motors keep the numbers over the years aslong as they are well maintained. I saw some dyno sheets in US and UK forums that show them making 190whp from a intake, exhaust and the m50 manifold. Those IC's could be a pain to remove with my basic tools, I wonder if gavin can simply take my ECU and flash it, if its cheaper that way, since hes got a lot of remaps stored, I will call him and find out in a few days. Just a good running M52 engine with a moddel airbox, m50 manifold, exhaust with cat etc delete and possible clutch fan delete. will be adding some spark plugs, gaskets, filter and oil. not looking to take this project too far althoug that was what I initially planned. I kind of live around the ideal twisty mountains roads and am happy with it as it is.

I am just not sure I can afford to dish out another $1000 to have it remapped. So if a chip can be had for a few hundread dollars My cars production date is 1995-10-05. I can solder, and can use a desolder/solder sucker if I can get a chip/have to solder in a new chip for running my small mods as M50 manifold.

I think it was around a grand for the fiest time, (over my budget) and a few hundread for next ones in the future. i wonder if I can send him my ecu and hed tune it for me to run the m50 manifold right. ps: is a chip possible on these cars? and in that case which one should i get if anyone makes them in nz?