gjm

Plan for this weekend is to get back under the car, drain the torque converter (for those that don't know - that can be done separately on a Mercedes gearbox ), remove the plate on the side of the gearbox and remove the B2. Inspect. Any work of this nature has been taking a back seat due to a suspect torn ACL. That really doesn't help with the getting up and down off the ground aspects of home car maintenance.

"Looking at selling my 1986 E30 318i... No WOF and Rego on hold.. brand new mags, tyres and German made shocks and lowering springs - has had previous rust repair in drivers side floor (not the flashiest work, needs attention to clean up, rest of floor pan is mint) also “minor” rust in boot that needs some patches, interior is out of car apart from front seats, loads of spare parts, engine and gear box are good! only known issue with engine is at idle it fluctuates up and down until cars warm, then good to go - im sure it’s just a $50 new cold start air fuel sensor to fix... apart from that fairly honest car good project for someone.. $6000 - owes me more...." There's another '86 manual, no WoF or rego, lowered, big exhaust, no details about interior, obvious nsf bump at some point - asking price is $7500. When does the silly season end?

Drive failed gradually (or so I'm told). Top - 4th - gear stopped engaging, then 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. Reverse still engages smoothly. That suggests (to me) low fluid, yet fluid, yet level indicated on the dipstick isn't far off where it should be. The 722.400 was only installed in the 190E 2.0. I'd stay away from the 'boxes from any of the diesels. Totally different engine characteristics. I've been offered a 'box from a W202 C220. This car had the M111 engine which is a later, more powerful engine; I was wondering if swapping the torque converter would help make up any differences? The M111 superceded the M102. It's a 16v engine (the M102 is 8v) with more top-end power, but the 8v engine delivers its power earlier in the rev range. M111 2 Litre 136 HP @ 5,500 rpm; 190Nm @ 4000 rpm M102 2 Litre 122 HP @ 5,100 rpm; 172Nm @ 3500rpm

The extra capacity makes a reasonable difference, but to be honest, the 2.6 is the cream of the daily driving crop of 190Es. (16v cars are more 'focused', the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 4-pots are solid, dependable but not especially exciting.) Making the 2.6 engine bigger is like adding sprinkles to a lovely pudding. (I'm considering a 3.2 build - the engine can go to 3.6 without sleeves.) This 2.0 I've picked up is a really lovely car. Some rust nibbles around the lower boot opening, but otherwise almost mint. I feel it's worth a bit of effort.

1990 Mercedes W201 190E 2.0 with the 4G-Tronic 722.400 (W4A 020) automatic transmission. There were several different versions of the 722.4xx, fitted to the W201, W202, W124 (and possibly other models), but I've been told the differences were the number of plates, and not ratios. Trying to confirm that.

Questions: "Is rego an wof on hold or" and "Dose the car run ok an that" Quality buyer ahead!

Not one I've seen often, and not in a currently popular size (7x15). But they're a good-looking rim for a daily driver. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2720564075

Just seen a Mtech 1 rear spoiler offered for sale. Couple of cracks, easy repair (apparently). US $600. The world has gone mad.

It's the Z13 concept from 1993.

@BMTHUG may be able to help or advise.

Nurburgring 1988 24h.

That'd fit with the rest of the story. Leaking fluid, low fluid, slipping plates... Oddly the fluid doesn't smell burnt.