gjm

I'd not regard the P1 Cinturato as a poverty pack tyre. The price is a special offer - they are normally $160-200 per corner, significantly more than the Yoko ES32. This started as a relatively easy comparison, but V-rated tyres being specified for the 500SE makes it more difficult (to me). Tall sidewalls typically mean lower speed rating. Stock size is 205/65-15V fitted to a 15x7J rim. Load rating is a bit trickier to be sure of as it is variously quoted at 94, 96 or 98. Some choice in this size, from Pirelli P1 Cinturato, Toyo C100+, and Goodyear Optilife or TripleMax. (Leaving aside the Triangles and similar.) The rolling diameter is the same as a 225/60-15 (also a legal fitment on the 15x7J rim) of which I can only find Hankook K415 Optimo or Nankang NA1 in a V-rating. (I've had bad experiences with Nankangs.) Struggling to find any other suitable sizes in a legal fitment. The speed rating part is a potential legal/insurance requirement. The WoF regulations say one reason for failure is "A tyre has a speed category that is less than the speed limit for the vehicle or less than the vehicle’s maximum speed if this is less than the speed limit." The speed limit is obviously 100km/h. Or 110, if you're exploring roads south of Hamilton (for example), suggesting an H-rated tyre is entirely fine. (This is contrary to UK MoT legislation where the tyre has to be designed to run at the maximum speed of the vehicle regardless of speed-related law.)

Would be happy with the ES32 but can't find them in a V-rating, only H. I'm unlikely to spend much time cruising at 130mph+ but the car is said to be good for 145-150mph and I think the tyres fitted need to be capable of that?

The Mercedes has chrome or stainless wheelarch trims. It shouldn't have.

Can now find the P1s at under $100 a corner! ? Unless there is something fundamentally wrong with the P1s, this looks like the deal to go for.

This is the sort of thing the "speed kills" advocates just don't get. Driving faster than an arbitrarily posted speed limit, especially the 100km limit, is not necessarily dangerous. However, doing so will now get you stopped and fined. Driving at a speed higher than appropriate for the conditions yet lower than the posted speed limit attracts no attention of recrimination, but is significantly more likely to cause an accident than simply exceeding a speed limit. @3pedals attended crashes. I didn't do much of that, but did work with the TRL in the UK for quite a while. The reports we provided were often ignored, or presented (with exclusions) in a way to meet whatever criteria were required. Typically that criteria was about a war on speed.

?

The Koni suggestion is a 'remove old kit, bolt i new kit' replacement. Coilovers are the main thing which will require welding, crack testing, and certification.

I tried AP springs on a Mercedes - they were cheap. And I got what I paid for.

I have to ask - why? Why is (re)charging a battery now so complicated? Is it a dealership thing? Can they charge for this service?

I think Brent @BM WORLD has mentioned 'battery coding'. I don't know what that is or what benefit it brings, but it could be a factor.

Assuming current shocks/springs need replacing - Koni sports / H&R springs. Check bushes. See how it handles and review swaybars and drop links accordingly.

True... I think they normally treat 50-60 litres. Bulk discount anywhere...?

Anyone have experience of both? Looking for some tyres in a 205/65-15. Can get either of these for under $145 a corner. IIRC, the Pirellis are more comfortable, but not so good on wear or handling.

Hastings is the big smoke!

Prices are quoted are for Waipawa BP, and for Gull down the road in waipuk. The Caltex in Waipuk seems to almost match Gull, once you take into account random special offers. The Gull pump price is 3c per litre less than the hoarding says. Always... And they do 'discount' days when another 10c per litre comes off. BP rarely matches that. From my perspective, if I can (on a discount day) get Gull 91 for (say) 166c, and 95 at BP is costing 65c or more a litre, more, and if a bottle of some sort of booster/treatment is $20, then why wouldn't I...? If someone offered you the chance to save $30 every time you fill up...?

If I could find a W220 S400CDi I'd be very happy!

Filling the 500SE (another mortgage!) this evening with 95 at the local BP, I found myself thinking "what am I doing?" No... I'm not selling the Mercedes. Don't be silly! ? But... 95 RON was 232.9c per litre. 91 was 186.9c per litre. (It's 10c cheaper than that at Gull.) That's a huge difference. 46c per litre. Who is getting ripped off here? I'm sure there isn't more than 10-12c per litre of additives, if that. So... And bearing in mind I'm talking up to 90 litres of fuel at a time, is there an octane booster which will turn 91 fuel into something more palatable? It could cost $30 a bottle and still be cheaper than using the supposedly better fuel from the pump!

There's a part in the door handle Mech that wears when the handle is lifted too far, as it wears, you need to lift it more, exacerbating the problem. Eventually something breaks, and the handle becomes floppy and stops working. I think I sorted this on a car we had, but y'know how it is. So many cars, such short memory.

Another thing on the list... The driver side front door handle on Miss M's E46 has far too much travel - needs lifting further than it should when opening. Is this the same as the E36 issue? Is there a fix kit avail?

Original rims were AMG 17x7.5 (et41, I think). I fitted a set of 'front' rims from the W210 E55 - 18x8 et31, and they rubbed on the front. I had a couple of mm machined off the inside hub face of the rim, and spaced the wheel arch to stop that. There were 7-10 RHD W124 E36s made in the T-model (wagon); mine was (as far as I know) the only one in Malachite green. It required the purchase of a W124 E320 estate which was then sent to AMG for the conversion work. This led to some interesting times at main dealers when trying to order parts because the car would still be listed as an E320, and led to them fitting the wrong exhaust centre section, bodging the AMG exhaust which was fitted in order to make it work. I had no idea - a subsequent owner of the car accused me of cutting corners. ?

I know a bit about the M103/4, from MB, AMG and Brabus. When that controller gives up, throw it all away and go MegaSquirt, Link or Haltech. It's cheaper. This was mine. And yes - two of the coil packs did give up...