handgrenade

Oh mike are these the springs?

how much lower? keen for them so please reserve them for me. I want to put them into a e36 evo sedan. also do you have any images of the type of drop they have?? thanks mike!

Hi Ron, I went out with the trusty tape measure. made sure to use the side with metric And here are the numbers: front, bottom lip of wheel to highest arch = ~600mm rear bottom lip to highest arch = ~575mm As far as I am aware the suspension is stock, and tire sizes are as specified by bmw. seems like i'm riding high!! Here are some images, excuse the dirty curbed rims (im saving for a refurbishment).

The drop is driven by aesthetics but if it is going to comprise handling then I will give it a miss.

Sorry I work with planes so get stuck in imperial!! Haha Suspension right now is 100% untouched e36 m3 sedan Evo suspension.

Seems like the general consensus is to refresh the factory gear!! Will dropping it an inch mess up the geometry?? Of course it will change the angles etc but its not that much of a change??

some lag. but if you calculate the actual volume involved, and then compare it to the amount of air moved by spooling turbo, you can pretty quickly see what the turbocharger is moving far more volume than you think and puts the charge piping volume in perspective. people do all sorts of things to decrease the charge piping length, but there are better places to put your time and money. also with a 5-6L v12 engine, you are moving a lot of exhaust gas energy.

Will you be selling the rs4 mufflers?

for spark, is it dizzy or coil pack or what? If it is EFI, then I would look to the ECU and/or wiring. sometimes even though the motor may look the same, it may run different electronics and connections.

go to the engine bay, locate the fuel rail, take the hose off, and then turn the car over (be prepared to catch fuel). if no fuel comes out, try pulling out your fuel pump and checking it works

trouble shoot. Fuel injected? check you have fuel pressure to the rail

more parts = more parts to fail turbocharged cars has a reputation for being less reliable because people don't fuel and tune properly and don't use quality parts and workmanship. They are usually driven harder as well. inherently, a tuned turbocharged car from factory should be as reliable as a tuned na car from factory. However because of the addition parts of a turbocharged/supercharged engine, there is a higher chance that a part will fail albeit a small difference. in my opinion turbocharged engines are also more sensitive to a wider range of variations in daily use. usually because they are running closer to the 'edge' of their limitations compared to their modified na brothers. of course if you compared a tuned turbocharged engine to a na engine which is running 12.7:1 compression and 9000rpm with an aggressive fuel and timing map, of course that engine will be almost as succeptible to daily variables as a edge tuned turbocharged engine. but how many cars do you see running such that sort of na build? compared to everyones friends cousin who has a boost controller on their factory skyline/evo/subby and decides to run it at 18-20psi on a stock setup? variables include ambient air temp, bad fuel lot, fuel starvation due to improper tank baffling or surgetank setup, oil starvation due to improper oil pan baffling/upgraded oil system, over-rev, overheating etc. I just think the inherent stresses in an forced induction environment are much less forgiving if you compare a modified turbocharged engine to an equivalent na engine. preignition or detonation will kill an engine quicker than you can let go of the throttle and in a forced induction environment there are more systems which control that critical fuel air mixture and timing than in an na car. a high performance na build is expensive so the owner tends to take more care in using the right fuel and having the right tune. equally if a person who understood tuning and fueling and the mechanics behind it all, can build a similar high performance turbocharged build which is almost as reliable. it is just that the number of people pushing cheap power out of turbocharged cars is much higher due to the price than those who choose to push a na powered car which is far more $$$. means less edge tuned na cars out there to be blown up. just my ranting and opinion. i've owned both tuned na and turbocharged cars, havent blown up anything, worst thing I've had is leaking turbo oil feed/drain lines and an inherently low compression cylinder in a straight 6 (not my fault).

True but ignoring a cert plate which is legit is as bad as ignoring the need for a cert plate (almost)

If you are on a budget go for the turbocharged n/a engine with low boost. Otherwise run a v8 high comp, high revs and big cams.

No worries .. Try your best to pick up one with the code written on it!!

My car has a full service history from new and mostly hot highway kms. From having it up on a hoist all the bushings look good and the rear suspension including shocks bushings and discs have been replaced. I was thinking of the UUC springs for sale by mike. Plus some better shocks. But I don't want to upset the geometry even if is only a few cm drop ..

looks like I just need part 6 .. Brent do you have one? if so pm me? thanks!!!

thanks mate!!

I do have the smokers package .. Would that explain it??

Turbo is cheap power compared to most na builds. But with forced induction is more complexity .. But there is a practical limit to na power. Unless you go with huge displacement or nuts revs then the cap is maybe around 300-350hp realistically. Put in an over engineered japanese engine with a snail and you can double that - 2jz or rb30. Even low boost on a BMW stock engine will net some good numbers .. All generalised comments though. Drop in a m3 v8 and push 400 or a m5 v10 and push more! $$$$$$ though

Looks like I have most parts but part 6. Brent do you have part 6 and perhaps some of the forward trim to get rid of the silly ashtray?? Do I need to replace the gear shifter surround or does the centre assembly end there? Thanks all for the awesome replies!!

Apparently parts 2 3 7 9 12 and 14 from the attached diagram Does that look right??

Been told by a wreckers that I will need additional parts than just the armrest?? This true?

anyone have one? Preferably in black leather!! And cup holder!

E36 arm rest and centre bit with a cup holder? Black leather preferred? Thanks Ray