handgrenade

I managed to find some genuine contour 1's for my evo sedan. looks much nicer and its return to stock. unfortunately, I came back into work and the stress engineer who sits opposite me advised me that the previous later edition m3 rims which were on there before were forged. a quick check showed that the contours are cast. Oh well. Too late now!

Ah so there are belts? Are the tensioners accessible?

Hi guys I'm getting a weird squealing noise on cold starts.. Goes away after about 2 mins later. Car runs fine otherwise. Sounds like a slack belt squeal but there are no belts right? S50b32 Thanks!

Look up the TradeMe terms and conditions. I'm sure that when someone puts something up for sale they have to agree to a bunch of legal items which will support your case.

Luck of the draw .. I picked up a m3 Evo sedan for under 10k last week .. Full nz new service history and survived the last spirited cruise with no grenading.

I had to reregister my coupe as a 2 seater and take the seats and belts out!!

How did you keep the rear seats in? Did they make you take the belts out?

There are guidelines to bar diameter and wall thickness along with some materials requirements but all proper cage builders should be aware of the rules. If you're planning to build it yourself, you might want to double check and also look up the criteria about the weld standards. As far as the b pillar issue goes there is also a requirement for foam padding depending on the proximity of your head to the main hoop etc. If its close then you will need padding but its no big deal

Very tidy .... poor previous owner who had to replace the VANOS. BM workshop said that alone would run 4k+ .. wonder why it had to be done at all?

Nah private sale .. Picked it up for under 10k couldn't pass up that deal

Was repainted and reupholstered too .. Most ks here hot. Long distance commute. Ask the guys who were at the meet today to have an idea of the condition

Under 10k. Full service history from nz new through all authorised BMW dealerships. Jerry Clayton's and coombs and team McMillan 280kms

OK guys, after speaking with Neil who had done this conversion, I tracked down the appropriate parts and started at it. Now this is for people who want to keep the factory standard look, but want bluetooth or ipod integration into their E36s. A lot of cars look fine with an aftermarket headunit, especially one which colour matches the standard red colour, however some people like to keep things looking nice and stock - you can't really find many head units with the right colour and also the matte finish that the factory centre console has (most aftermarket units have a polished look with polished buttons etc which make it stand out. Also as a theft deterrent to keep things looking standard inside. Now here is my factory radio FM transmitter sucks because of quality and also having to plug my phone in, and having to control tracks from the phone etc. Also takes up the 12v cig lighter which I need for ... uhh something else. Now you need the following Anycar Link AL-1080C You can choose a BMW 10pin option if you use the CD43 radio which we'll get to. It comes with a harness which intercepts the factory radio loom, so you plug one end of the harness into the factory loom, then plug the other end into the CD43. The harness then has two outputs which splice out - one to plug into the CD changer port in the back of the CD43 and the other to plug into the Anycar Link box above. Harness: Then you need to source a CD43 head unit. This is a single CD business radio from later model bmws. this has a 10 pin plug at the rear, so you should check your existing radio to make sure you have a 10 pin output. this is a CD43. Don't bother with the Ebay radios, they run for 250USD+ .. there are plenty at local bmw wreckers .. the only catch is that you need to have the code (any time battery runs flat or you disconnect the radio, you will need the code to unlock it again). recently BMW dealerships in nz have stopped giving out codes, you can try some overseas sites etc, or last resort buy one of the expensive ebay units with the code included. I lucked out and asked the wreckers to check the CD43s they had in stock until they found one with a code written on it. a lot of people write the code onto the units!!! so check various wreckers and ask them to check if any of the ones they have also have a code written on it by hand. Without the code, you can't use the unit. once you have those. its very easy. Pull out the existing headunit by opening the little flaps on each side, and using a 2mm hex/allen key. sometimes it slides out easy, sometimes you have to wrestle with it for a while. took me a while to shimmy it out (with a bit of swearing). but there are no hidden clips or anything, just those two hex screws. then unplug the big black plug on the back, you have to pull the clip surround UP as shown on the plug itself. this was a big pain in the a.. thought it would break, but after a while it came loose. as soon as you pull the clip up, the plug comes out. then use the harness and intercept the loom, and then plug the other end of the harness into the new CD43. same install as before .. push the clip down and the plug fits in. then plug the cd changer from the harness into the back of the radio into the cd changer port just below the main plug. turn your ignition on, input the code for the radio and then you should see the anycar link box power up. there is a lot of room in the back there to stow the anycar link box. I stowed it to the right, and the harness extra bits to the left. The anycar link also adds hands free bluetooth calling, you accept a call with the + and decline or hand up with the -. I was wondering where to put the microphone, most people run it up the b pillar to sit up near the visor, but it was a bit of a hassle, so instead I pulled out the centre vent and ran the wire through there. Here you can see the vent (two screws from the bottom and a clip to the top right, so pull at the bottom left). then there is a bit of tucking and twisting to slide the new unit back in (the wires and everything usually get in the way) so its a bit of a stow and try slide in. here is the finished product you can control tracks using the radio, even switch between playlists etc. just select the CD option.

do you mean for the full cage or half?

how is the dice media bridge? do you use an iphone or android?

that is a good deal ray, thanks! I just need to get the staggered rears at 8.5". I would very much like the factory 7.5 fronts and 8.5 rears. Can you hold onto them for me? I have a friend coming to see you soon and he will pick them up for me Thanks Ray! and if you manage to find the 8.5" rears .. let me know!!

he wants 700 for the rims alone and I have to take his tires off, put mine on etc .. what are these worth anyway?

sorry off topic (your inbox is full?) how did you manage to find all the options that your e46 came with? I am really interested to find out what options were on my e36 (nz new). good luck with the sale!

pricey! (the first white one) ... and also the second one..

have you put any thought into the fact that you may need to look at injector sizing when moving to E85? the power density of E85 is lower than petrol, so you need to bump the size up appropriately (I think in the range of 1.5x) what else are you doing with the fuel system? usually a low pressure pump is to pull fuel to a surge tank then high pressure lines to the rail. also great to meet you today, very well modified machine

oh and also most manufacturers hold at least two sizes of oversize piston and ring sets. so you can accommodate secondary rebuilds. After that, you're either looking at custom internals or sleeving the block.

if you increase the size of the injectors, you will overfuel. The ecu will send the appropriate signal to the injectors to fire (shoot fuel) for x amount of time depending on what the airflow readings are. which means that the ecu is still thinking that it has the smaller injectors, the same signal is being sent, however much more fuel is being dumped in because large injectors open for the same time as small injectors obviously mean much more fuel.

half cages need a LVV cert. they may require some padding around the head area depending on how close the seats get to the top bars. the main loop can not be cut, it needs to be a single bar. there may be some exceptions but you will need to weld a smaller diameter tube within the main and have that certified. you can drive legally a fully caged car on the road including harnesses etc, however, you will need a motorsport licence and keep it up to date. you will have to remove the rear seats, including seatbelts so that no one can essentially ever sit back there. if you're thinking of running harnesses - good to get a harness bar put in as well .. again check the LVV cert rules. the harness needs to be within a certain angle range from the seat to the mounting points.

I picked up a high kms e36 m3. like previous people have said .. look at the condition first before looking at the kms. I was reluctant to pick up my car, but after looking at it in person, I decided to take it. Also I took it on the euro spin today and really made it work hard and it behaved perfectly fine. bear in mind, coming from a turbo silvia, you will have to change your driving style. I forget and keep short shifting before the max torque range .. too used to turbocharged cars spooling around 3k.

Totes.