Olaf

I went M42 for four main reasons. Firstly I'd already spent on updates dedicated to 4cyl, it would be a waste of time and money to backtrack and spend the same money twice. Secondly if I want a performance car, I already have that in other vehicles. Thirdly I really enjoy the balance of a four cylinder e30; they're frankly better balanced than a six. YMMV. Fourthly if I put an M5x into my car, it wouldn't be a 318iS replica. Ultimately I've not owned a four cylinder car since 2008, and last serious four cylinder car I owned was 1996; I'm keeping this one four-pot for the driving experience. Why is the M5x the sensible move? It's a more modern engine, superior to the M20 (doesn't have the maintenance weakspots of the M20), has more power, less weight, multi-valve top-end, and VANOS for the bottom end (later models). It's a far superior motor. If you're going to the expense and effort of re-powering a thirty year old e30, and the expense and hassle of certing it, you might as well do an M5x - plenty of power and a better drive. Unless you're building (say) a 1990 spec 325i (replica), and you specifically want the character of the M20. I acknowledge that for most people an M5x makes more sense than an M42 or M44 - the M42 is pretty pricey for some of the engine parts. And then there's the M30 😀. I expect somebody will be along shortly extoling the virtues of M60/M62 conversions; I'm not worthy! 😁 I'd love to experience one. I'm picking nobody says they're easy, or easier than an M5x or M4x conversion? Hope that helps. Here's a thought. Have you bought the specialist books about the e30? Take a look on Amazon, buy up, read up.

No, that's entirely new territory. Many are watching the project threads for those going N52 now, to focus on the well-engineered N52 conversion. If you want N52 e30 conversion TODAY be prepared to write a blank cheque to a fabrication shop to do your conversion and get it certed for NZ. It could be quite some time. By all means go N52 today if you want to be a pioneer and understand what that means in terms of of $$$ or your own time with the requisite skills and access to machinery.

this is why - having done allmost all of the work mentioned above on mine, I'm going M42. Still have to cert it. But the car will be a 318iS replica, and the only stuff I end up 're-doing' is the cooling system hoses. The brakes, suspension, all of the bushes are already done. If I went to M5x (the sensible move) I'd be up for springs, change to medium case diff etc etc. @Southerner I stopped adding mine up ages ago. The accounting terms is "f#*king heaps*. Though the smiles per mile make it all worthwhile.

A/C is uncommon on 316i (could you even option it on the 103hp poverty-spec model?), some 318i have it. You'd want to go to disc rear end (most 316 and 318 are drum rear and solid fronts) and 6cyl vented front brakes (rotors, calipers), with new hoses, caliper rebuilds, pads, rotors. Anything less will be under-braked for your 170hp powertrain. You'll need 6 cyl springs for the extra weight, so might as well do your shocks while you're at it and don't cheap-out (so factor H&R+Koni, or Eibach+Bilstein), and you'll want the 6 cyl ARB. In fact it's thirty years old so do a full suspension bushing refresh front and rear incl rear subframe & trailing arm bushes, lollipops and LCA bushes (or just replace the LCAs as they're not expensive) at the front, along with strut mounts, bump stops, booties. You'll want to replace the diff mount on the medium case diff your 6 cyl conversion came with, unless it's looking fresh. Auto to manual, do all your shifter bushings and a Z3 1.9 short shift, easier to do it now. You'll need a 6 cyl plug for your cluster if converting from 4 cyl, so the tacho reads right. As you're certing, might as well do a purple tag rack conversion. If it came on steel wheels, you'll need bottle caps as a minimum for the fatter calipers - as the pads wear the'll end up contacting the steel rims. Avoid cheap tyres when you go to get it on the road after spending all that money, the wreckers are littered with e30's where a damp road has been encountered and the tyres &/or driver experience isn't up to it. Doing cooling system refresh as part of your M20 install? You'll need the bigger radiator (if it didn't come with your M20 conversion) as the 4 cyl is a lot smaller. Maybe change all those old hoses and waterpump whie it's out as precautionary maintenance? Or defer till later and keep a watchful eye on it. OE/OEM parts are reasonably inexpensive but the prices mount. If you're doing it yourself you're saving labour at least. If you've bought a $4-5k M20B25 full drivetrain (rad to diff), and pay $12-15k for a clean 4cyl coupe, then add the costs above, you're around $20-25k certed and on the road with a clean tidy sorted car with no maintenance headaches. And people think e30's are cheap!

August 2017, Makara.

@HardBall66 it's time to scratch that e38 itch my friend!

Wow, that's a cool e28. should be easy to sell! Can't afford an e30, buy a more credible 80's weapon. Sharkattack! GLWS!

@qube bummer mate.

@freaknout - outrageous! 😆

that's your cue to music! https://youtu.be/WpTOfr5TeOQ

Hey this is interesting. It's a Singapore import arriving in NZ at 6 years old with 113,127kms. I can only suggest it was used as a taxi in Singapore; it must have been in near-continuous use to rack that mileage up on the little island! 😁 https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=KTY939

Of the MT2 kit on that vert, I thought it looks dreadful on that particular car (in the photos provided). Visually heavy, and is it on 14's? Certainly it's only 14J6.5 vs 15J7; if in doubt ask your GF about the difference that half inch makes 😎 Probably needs 16x8s? Paint appears very good in the potatocam images. pics nabbed from the ad, for ref: (PS - very low kms though!)

I can't fault your logic there, Harm. Though isn't it odd, the rarist of all is the Baur, with fewer produced than even the M3. You'd think they'd be more desirable than a Cab based on increased rigidity resulting in better driving dynamics? The MT1 Cabrio sale you mention needs a 'when'.

You want original, reinstall the parts that he's carefully stored in the shed. You want to enjoy the manual experience, leave it as it is. What next: "it's not the original top" ? 😊

I think the main clue with @_ethrty-Andy_'s vert is 125k kms, never had paint, all original - or with parts to put it back to all original. This in contrast to cars with moon-and-back distances. It's around collector quality, and is likely the best in NZ. In my opinion, as a good tidy SE 4 dr is now at ~$30k, how can a primo cabrio be worth less? Of course, anything's only what someone's prepared to pay. How much to replace? I'd be expecting a valuation of circa $35k on this car. For someone who must have a cabrio, and wants the best, the one (linked above) on FB marketplace is not going to cut it. There are a few particularly tidy examples around, but they're not for sale. If you were that person, and this car was presented at $39,780k ($10-25k below a *good* M325i coupe), would you hesitate?

Something very satisfying about polishing metal, chrome in particular. That said, bloody happy there's so little of it on my e30. I suppose it's time I did the exhaust tips on my e60. Thanks for the inspiration Mike, and keep up the great work!

awesome thanks Glenn I'll IM you 🙂

Glenn @B.M.W Ltd, does the 3 series Haynes manual for e36 cover the M42? If so, I'll take it please.

For me - as @E30 325i Rag-Top Jon, Trade In Clearance Centre isn't a great start for any car, the risks would have to be qualified. Those beads, though. Wow, hard to let them go!

very tempting!

wow, you got your money's worth out of those @qube 😀

Have you had a hunt around on RealOEM to determine the part number? That should take the guesswork out. HTH.

not your everyday M42 installation!

that should be a great wagon, far more dynamically satisfying than your Corollas have been, if a little more taxing on your wallet. What's not to love about the e46?