F10er

Another thing i learnt from my BMW diff nightmare was, a type 168k diff has 7 bolts holding the rear diff cover. A type 188k has 8.

A little late to the party here, so it's probably useless info but if you use realoem.com, it tells you what the ratio is and what type of diff it is. In this case it looks like the 3.91 comes in type 168 and 188. The 168k looks like it comes in cars with an automatic trans and the 188k is only used in manuals.

Yep, WOF inspectors have to have a certain percentage of inspection failures. If they don't achieve those percentages NZTA are highly likely to audit them.

DISA flap in the manifold is another one to check. If it's not working the fuel economy will be up. They also have a tendency to fall apart inside the manifold and get sucked into the cylinders, so it's a fairly important thing to check up on.

Yes, they are all CAN communication errors for the DSC control unit. I would be checking the power and earth supplies to the DSC and also checking the PT CAN wiring between the DSC and DME, including unplugging them and visually checking the pins for corrosion. Have you got ISTA?

I think those are all CAN bus faults. If you put your VIN into mdecoder.com you can see what battery your car had from factory. As far as i know all E90s with a CCC or CIC came with a 90ah battery. I could be wrong though.

Have you checked the in the settings of the phone. You can turn bt audio off in there.

Sounds like a possible voltage issue. What is the alternator charge rate when engine is running? Also it's probably worth noting that your battery is too small. It should be a 90ah.

It's for the transport switch which is only used when the car is delivered from the factory to the dealer.

Is this any use?

I got my kit from Ebay UK. The hard thing about rebuilding it was not having any specs to go off for the pinion bearing preload, and the crownwheel and pinion backlash. BMW does not list those details anywhere. Got there in the end though.

The power management will selectively restrict power to any of these functions so although your seat heating works, it may still be restricting the blower speed. Start with the basics first like the battery. These cars MUST have a good battery of adequate size or there will be problems. Even a 70AH is too small really. I remember when i was working at a dealer when these cars were new, BMW were upgrading the 70ah batteries to a 90ah because the 70ah batteries were too small and causing a lot of issues. I would be getting rid of that undersize battery personally and installing a new one. It may not be the issue now, but it will give you problems eventually. Preventative maintenance. Also have you scanned the car for fault codes?

Screenshot from ISTA. If your battery is too small like you say it is, i would suspect this may be your problem.

If your car has an IBS sensor on the battery it might just be a weak battery. If the IBS senses the battery is weak, it will tell the power management in the car to restrict or sometimes completely deactivate power consumers like the blower motor, heated seats and heated rear window.

Topaz/bapmic is Chinese junk. Buy an OEM part and fix it properly. I personally wouldn't drive it.

Max counter clockwise position will have the valves closed so, yes it won't start because there is no air/fuel getting into the cylinder. What brand Valvetronic motor did you use?

Yep. Quite common for them to leak coolant.

The black plastic coolant flange on the back of the cylinder head is another weak point and a real pain in the arse to change in place. Might be a good idea to change that while the engine is out.

I would replace the whole engine.............with a 6 cylinder one. Those 4 cylinders are nothing but trouble.

Best take it back to them in that case.

You will need to get the DME reprogrammed by a ECU repairer or specialist to remove the engine light. BMW won't be able to do it fyi.

Hi Guys. Does anybody know of a place in NZ who does this? It's an M73 V12 engine with an M5.2 DME from an E38 being transplanted into a non BMW vehicle. I've tried messaging @promo but am unable to send him a PM. Maybe someone could pass on his contact details to me? Cheers. Problem sorted now. Cheers.

Check fuel pressure regulator function. Sometimes the diaphram splits and leaks fuel into vacuum hose

It is very hard to get the sponge completely dry. The best way i found is to squeeze the water out of the sponge by hand, then prop the corner of the carpet up and park it outside in the sun with the doors open so there's plenty of airflow in the car. It takes a good 3 days to get them completely dry.

Yes, the vapour barriers and door card clips. If the clips don't have the black gasket on them they will also leak.