F10er

If your car is a 2010, you will have a CIC not CCC as the head unit. As promo said, easiest way is to modify the vo and then default code the CIC HU. So you need to remove 807 and 852 from the vo and add 812 and 853.

Your X1 is based on the E90 3 series and has the same gear selector unit so if you do another search on Dr Google you will find something. It's something to do with the wiring breaking at the selector unit which is apparently very hard to see until you remove the complete shifter.

Might have to agree to disagree on that one.

I think you maybe confusing a DPF with a catalytic converter. Pre MY 07 had the catalytic converter. After that was a DPF to the best of my knowledge. I could be wrong though. Does your car have option code 200? Would be keen to learn if i am wrong.

No DPF on a 2005. They came out on MY 2007 onwards. Easiest way to tell is by the exhaust tip. If it points down to the ground, it has no DPF. If it comes straight out the back, it has a DPF. That's assuming the car still has the stock exhaust.

+1 for vacuum leaks. With those mixture and air mass faults, it almost certainly has a leak somewhere. Smoke testing is the best way to find vacuum leaks.

Looks like the sump gasket to me. They usually start leaking about 100000km. Yours still has the blue paint on the end of the sump bolts which means they're the original ones. Rear main seals very seldom leak on these engines. Sump gaskets are a very common issue though.

If you have ISTA there's a service function on there called "create new boot file" or something along those lines. it takes about 45min to do it but it was designed for this specific issue. Doesn't always work though. Definitely worth a try. It has worked for me in the past.

Found this quite amusing, but kind of true. Apologies if it offends anybody.

Still can't quite believe this. A fuse!!! I'd probably throw that coffee at them if it were me. Probably wouldn't achieve much though. But the satisfaction.........

Wow!!! Good that it's fixed now but I'd be going back into BMW and demanding some of my money back. That is completely f#$%@d that they missed that!!

Hmmm....... not too sure if I'd be replacing an AGM battery with a gel one on a car like yours. I'd probably just bite the bullet and buy a genuine one. It will definitely need to be registered to the car.

Just a random thought, but did they check the cats in the exhaust to see if they were blocked? If it won't rev over 3k that is one possibility. Could be completely wrong though.

It can only be done with a scan tool or laptop with diagnostic software on it, like ISTA or INPA. If you have one of these cars it's a good idea to have at least one of these, preferably ISTA as it's what the dealers use. If you're not DIY inclined I'm sure your mechanic could do it for you.

Charge the battery overnight with a good quality multi stage charger, then register the battery. Registering it resets the power management in the DME. Then see how it goes.

Was it registered to the car when installed?

I would get the battery tested. That's usually all that causes this warning. How old is the battery?

N46 = 2nd worst engine ever made by BMW. 1st place goes to N63 twin turbo.

You can download ISTA D for free from here https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads It is called Rheingold here but is excactly the same as ISTA D and works 100% you just need a k+dcan cable and a half decent laptop. There is no programming in it. Programming for all e series cars is done with ISTA P. But does give you access to all guided diagnostics with intergrated wiring diagrams and functional descriptions of how all the systems work. Various service functions like battery registration which will be handy for you, as i would say you need one. Genuine BMW ones are expensive (probably $500 or more) but tend to last longer. Your car will more than likely have a 90ah standard lead acid from factory. Have you had a look at the battery?

Found it on a North American site. MC-10148166-9999.pdf

Looking for an n52 small DISA valve (inner) Don't mind if it doesn't work as i have a rebuild kit for it.

That sounds very unusual. So there is no check engine light or fault codes at all when it goes into limp mode?

Hey guys Trying to get some wheels freighted to me through Mainfreight but their terms are "at owners risk" if they damage or lose them, they won't compensate at all. Not worried about damage so much, the losing side of things is concerning. Anybody know of any other freight companies to use??