Mad_Max

That's the exact point right there, chipping (for what the TA wants) is the cheapest option. Lol you've just confirmed the fact I stated, they are the same block in terms of design. Both blocks are cast iron. The only difference is in most markets, nikasil was added to the cylinder liners on the M52BXX motors..... both use the same iron compound. Both are dimensionally the same. Both run the same bearings, oil and water journals, sumps etc etc etc. The only difference is the nikasil. And yep confirmed wrong by someone else. Yeah try telling that to everyone that's put an M50 manifold onto an M52B28...... massive change in the engine characteristics. Torque curve moves to the right, hp is up, motor revs more freely. Thousands of people have done and will continue to do this swap because it's cheap and damn effective. Yet you claim it's a total disaster..... I'll bet there's forum members here who will completely argue that so called "fact" because of the change to performance in their car. And trust me, I've done this conversion, not just on my 328i but also on a rally car, and the difference is night and day...... do I need to explain to you the basics of how engines work and how to get the best performance from them?? I think you need to go back and check some facts. There is conclusive proof on the net that the M50 manifold swap is the best bang-for-buck modification you can do to an M52B28. Dyno graphs don't lie when they are done back to back with the same car, same day, same dyno etc etc. Again, I'm not arguing about a decent exhaust system helping, that goes without saying with any modifications you do. Yes there's plenty around pushing 200kw, and I would just about bet my left testicle that more than half at that hp rating are running the M50 manifold. Yep Turners can claim what they want, after all they've been in the business of supplying aftermarket parts for BMW's since 1993.... so 24 years.... yeah I think they'd know a thing or two and would be pretty conservative with their claims given the likelihood they would get sued left, right and centre, if their claims couldn't be proven. Again, go back to the TA's original question. Yes chips exist. Yes still cheaper than the engine swap you told him to do.... or the custom exhaust.... I'm happy to continue this debate via pm, I think this thread has been hijacked enough and the TA probably still hasn't gotten the clear answer to his question.

Actually, factually incorrect. M50 and M52 motors both share the same common identification codes, being 206S and 256S, therefore are the same blocks. Argue this all you want, I have the paperwork in front of me to prove those ID codes, it's all readily available information. The M50B20 and B25 both have a larger intake cam, however, as the TA's car is a 1995, it will most likely have an M50B25TU motor, the first of the Vanos ones, which has basically the same cams as the M52B28. So wrong again on that fact in relation to the TA's car. No arguments at all regarding the exhaust, it can use a lot of improvement over factory regardless of what engine you have. However, keep in mind that runner lengths, shape and size, as well as design, can be used to change the engine's dynamics. The M52B28 has 5mm more stroke, hence why it has more torque. I don't think there's any reason I need to explain why 5mm difference in crank stroke makes a difference to both torque and ho, do I? So the question becomes, if the M52 is so much better designed, why then do you get a good result from throwing the M50 manifold onto it? Why does that make the air velocity "too slow" for the M50? In theory, the M52 is an overly square design (1:1) when you look at bore and stroke measurements, therefore it should not like high revs, will rev slower but will produce a higher torque figure for the available hp. The M50, on the other hand, is a 1.77:1 rod/stroke ratio, which means it will be happier revving harder, however will produce less torque. Still produces almost the same hp as the M52 though. “Minor mods” to the M52 usually start with putting the M50 manifold on, to increase air flow into the motor. After that is exhaust, tuning, cold air intake etc. So if the M50 manifold is such a poor design, with runners that are too large, why is it so effective on the M52? Can’t be the camshaft lift and duration when compared to the M50, only the intake cam is larger. And that’s only with the non Vanos motors. I do agree a properly designed set of headers will do a lot of good, yes equal length (if possible) is definitely the way to go. There’s a lot more factors that come into it, depending on what you want to achieve, such as primary diameters, overlap with exhaust ports, etc. etc. Going back to what the TA originally asked, he wants a “lil bit more power” and is looking at a chip, I am guessing it’s because he doesn’t want to spend a s**tload in swapping motors, certs, fancy custom made exhausts, cam grinding, and so on…… all of which everyone else is telling him to do. Chips bought ex USA from Turners are around $350 (and I’m positive there are other well known tuners that you could get cheaper chips from). I want to know where I can buy an M52B28 for $700 (the price of two chips as you stated) and get it installed in a car without any extra costs, no certs, nothing. On and FYI, Turners chip? 20hp and 13Nm torque increase….. a bigger increase than you predicted after spending $600 or more on an custom exhaust. The chip is still the better “bang for buck” mod.

No argument there, the two are different animals to drive and yes I will always pick an M52B28 over any M5X25 or M50BX motor. However, bang for buck for the original question, swapping motors ain't worth the cash it will cost to have similar rated hp from factory but just more torque. To do it legally, you're talking $1k or more. Money is better spent elsewhere to pick up basic performance. For example, swapping the stock exhaust manifolds to M52B28 exhaust manifolds will see a small increase in torque, due to their design. A decent chip will give more top end. There's more that can be done to the intake and exhaust side of things to pick a little up here and little up there and so on, again dependant on the budget. If the OP wants ultimate performance and has no budget for motor, driveline, cert etc, then yes, go for a motor swap, drop an S52 or better in there. All comes down to what is wanted in the end and what will fit in someone's budget.

Sorry but I have to disagree with that. Yes M52B28 has more torque, both are rated to nearly the same hp from factory. Same block casting. Same bore. M50B25NV has a smaller combustion chamber and larger lift/longer duration cams. If you've seen the prices people ask for a good, running M52B28 ($500 - $900 usually), then a couple of chips at say $150 each is cheaper and easier.... and no need for a cert (which technically is required for the swap), which saves another $450 - $500. And you also don't need to change engine looms, DME, EWS etc etc etc, saving a lot of time and labour. Chipping is cheaper. Do you get the same gains as the swap? No, no arguments there. But it ain't so easy just to dump another motor in there unfortunately.

Simple thing first. Where you tightened the earth strap on the body, remove that and clean it right up with sandpaper, and try that. There is a good chance that that earth isn't allowing enough volts through to start the car. Seen it a couple of times before with the exact symptoms you describe, a good clean of the connection fixed the issues. Try that and if that doesn't work, start looking elsewhere.

Whatever the parts cost plus fuel. Might pay to have a hunt for an occupancy sensor, unfortunately they are different to the ones I have available. As for rear pads, just need to know if we're dealing with a broken wire/sensor, or the pads themselves are really low. New pads at a guess would be $75-$90 depending on where you buy them, and a new sensor around $65, so may be better to grab both then just repair what's needed on the day, return whatever's left over and get your money back on that. Just let me know if you want to go this way and I'll free up some time for ya. Yes understand completely where you're coming from and why, some of us do have knowledge and skills - first job was as a mechanic for a Euro specialist in Melbourne, and since then I've spent the last 3 years or so playing with all sorts of things. I wouldn't have offered to help if I wasn't confident I could do it. At the end of the day, it may cost him for parts and fuel to travel, my labour is free, so not a huge outlay - and not an idiot repairer either lol. So worst case -

Lol taking my time and doing it nicely on someone else's car...... one of mine? A lot faster to do hahaha. AFAIK the occupancy sensor can trigger the airbag light, as it is part of the SRS system - one sensor fails and it will throw the light on so you get it checked out. So it may be the occupancy sensor or the seatbelt sensor that's throwing the airbag light, either one shouldn't be hard to fix. Rear wheel pads may just be sensor wire not connected, or your rear pads are too low and need changed, easily fixed. Fuel level sensor won't have anything to do with the airbag light. As for the timing, well stranger things have happened but I really don't think changing the battery has caused a single one of these issues to develop. As mentioned above, more than happy to get my hands dirty if you want.

That's pretty steep..... depending on the car, sensor might take an hour to change tops, and the rear pads I can swap on the floor of my garage within an hour. If you feel like a trip south (or get down to Invercargill often) gimme a yell. I've got basic BMW software and a cable here, if the car is an E36 will also have occupancy sensors. Let us know what make, model and year your car is as problems like these can be specific to certain models.

Anything like these ones on TradeMe?

Lol that's a definite no no...... an electrical contact cleaner is best, a few bucks for a can that'll last years. Use throttle body cleaner for the throttle body and everything else.

I'm betting it's your cam angle sensor, my 328i did the exact same thing until I repaired it. Peel back a bit of the main insulation at either end I'll bet you'll find the insulation around each individual wire is cracked and failing, it'll be shorting out intermittently. If you've got someone you can borrow a sensor from, pop it in and try it for a week, see if that fixes it.

I've had a few dealings with 3 members on here recently. I couldn't see anywhere where you could give feedback or recommend people - there are a few comments made on some posts in the "For sale" section but thought I'd prefer to give feedback on all three because they were so good to deal with. @Scrambler - pedal box turned up today, thank you. Great communication from him regarding delays (hope you're feeling better now). @OP6 - have dealt with him both here and on TradeMe, both times were hassle free and great communication. @fizzychicken - another great one to deal with, super fast to pay, great communication. I would recommend all 3 of these guys with any dealings.

Have you got anyone nearby who specialises in electronics? Most places that do electronics repairs will probably be able to at least diagnose it, if not fix any blown components. If you can ID the blown component I'd be happy to swap it out for you if no one else can. If not, I'm sure there will be spares somewhere.

Just on a side note, if you're changing the heater core, the dashboard doesn't need to come out to do this, everything comes out the passenger side. Don't believe what the American websites say when they claim it's a day's work to get one out, I removed, flushed and refitted the one in my E36 coupe in about 3 1/2 hours.

Input shaft bearings don't whine like an unpaid hooker when they are gone, they rattle badly but only when in neutral, foot off the clutch and engine idling. The rattle goes away once you hit the clutch pedal and are moving. That's just my experience, ex mechanic and having blown up several input shaft bearings says to me the whine is coming from somewhere else. I have no idea where you are, I'm in the deep south. If you're anywhere near me I'm more than happy to have a look at it for you and give a second opinion.

No, it wouldn't. So the whine is coming from somewhere else, just a matter of finding out where now so you can fix it. Fingers crossed it isn't something bad causing the whine. If it's doing it in neutral while idling I'd suspect something driven by the belts causing it - most likely culprit is probably power steering pump low on fluid or on it's way out.

Is it possible? http://rdtransmissions.co.uk/Category/63/getrag.aspx https://store.vacmotorsports.com/samsonas---dog-ring-gear-m50--s50-family-zf-transmission-p2698.aspx https://shop.quaife.co.uk/bmw-six-speed-heavy-duty-sequential-gearbox http://www.hackengineering.co.uk/product/samsonas-45-speed-dog-gear-set-zf-s5d-gearbox/ http://www.rwracing.nl/bmw/ Anything is possible with the right amount of money thrown at it. Is it likely? Well there's the real question. Can you confirm the whine is not from the diff or somewhere else? Is there any paperwork to back up this claim? Have you checked it's not a bearing in the box that is failing? Is it just straight cut gears or a dogbox? Any way of checking the box itself, such as draining the fluid and visually looking at the gears? I'm only asking this because the cost of straight cut gear sets here in NZ is horrendous, so unless it is some top competition car, or the previous owner got lucky buying a different box, the expense would most likely rule out anyone forking out thousands of $$ for a special gearbox for a daily driver. Whilst I am hoping you have struck the jackpot and found a straight cut box, I am thinking statistically the likelihood of this happening is slim to none. Would definitely be interested to know for sure if it has one.

I'd just about bet my left testicle I have one spare sitting on my bench at home (just about bet because I don't trust my memory these days). Will be home by tomorrow lunchtime at latest so will have a look for you, make sure it's the right one.

Also check the intake hose between the throttle body and the AFM, and the hoses either side of the ICV. Check all vacuum lines you can as well, a small air leak can cause the above symptoms as well as the parts Gabe79 mentioned.

And so, the plot thickens..... If the car isn't in the rain/wet and is parked, it is safe to assume it is in a garage or under a carport, correct? That being the case, then my brain is thinking along a different path now.... Imagine for a second, you have had a water leak inside the car at some other stage, where moisture has never fully dried out. The temp of the boot rises, evaporating said moisture, whereupon it becomes a vapour. This vapour then hits the cooler underside of the boot lid/lip on the rear quarter, making the water condense back into liquid form and drip into the spots you're seeing. If the above is correct, then it explains why you're seeing water marks in one spot, with no apparent ingress of water possible. Which means you have had/do have a water leak somewhere else inside the boot. Somewhere that, if the car has been parked up, must be getting wet, even if it's just a corner of it. I'd be checking everywhere throughout the boot now, not just where the water marks are. Pass. side floor well, spare wheel well, every single little place that's down low, and see if you see any moisture. Moisture has gotten in there somehow, now it's just a process of elimination to find out where and what's causing the tea staining near your battery.

I'd try drying out the boot as much as possible, then drown it with a water blaster one section at a time, see if you can find a leak anywhere. Jack the corner up and remove the wheel so you can blast into the wheel arch, as well as underneath the car. Go around the rear window, boot seal, tail lights etc. Check every few minutes for any sign of ingress, it has to be coming from somewhere. Or, even better, get yourself into the boot with a torch and have someone else using the blaster (make sure you pick someone you trust not to leave you in the boot......)

Have you got a sunroof? If so, are the drain tubes blocked or clear? Is the rear wheel arch plastic pieces in place? Or missing? Does it leak only when parked? Only when driven? Both? Is the grommet for the battery drain tube in position?

It may be the grommet through the well is missing and letting water splash up? Hard to tell from that pic sorry, it is a bit of a guess as to the water ingress.....

That hose will have been connected to the original DIN battery, it's a drain of some sort for the battery itself and will run out through a grommet in the floor that's below your battery. It won't be doing anything now, no harm in removing or leaving there - either way, nothing to be concerned about.

So it looks like I've found the true problem. This is what's left of the thermostat, there's one small piece missing, which I'm presuming has gotten wedged in one of the water jackets inside the head, stopping water flow to the back 2 cylinders....... Either I'm going to have to find a way to reverse flush this loose, or the head will have to come off and see if I can remove it that way. Not a job I wanted to be doing on this thing.......