Mad_Max

Just checked on realoem, they are the same pump as a 318i so should be able to get you whatever you need on the weekend, how much of the loom do you want?

If the system is properly bled, about the only things i could think that may cause this issue would be the thermostat sticking or possibly the water pump is on it's way out.

Gimme a yell if you ever get stuck Adam, I'll shoot around with all the info I have. Bentley manual says to do it in 3 stages, torque to 30Nm then turn 90 degrees then 90 degrees.

I'll ask a couple of guys I know, any idea what they are worth? Just so I know if they are overpricing stuff.

Right, so I have got somewhat sorted and grabbed a couple of pics for you. If you were planning on keeping the PCV and ICV, the first picture shows you what you are essentially trying to replicate to make it all connect to the M50 manifold. Big connection on the left is for the PCV, upright tube is where your intake air temp sensor plugs in, there's 3 vacuum plugs, then the last round hole on the right is for your ICV. Seeing as how you're going with a catch can instead, let's just ignore that. The second, third and fourth photos are of the M50 manifold, yours might look slightly different.See that large round hole in the middle? Grind off those two plastic tabs on the sides, and that's the perfect size for your ICV to sit in. Note that, mounting it here, you'll need the rubber seal it goes into, and you will need to modify the hose that runs to the intake boot, shouldn't be a hard one. Next, you'll have to run your vacuum lines, these can all be teed off the one vacuum port, so that's simple.You'll also need to find a way to plug your intake temp sensor in, as the ones for the M50 are different - I can't remember if they make the car think the air temp is always hot or cold, either way it messes with the DME and fuel maps. I simply left the M50 sensor in it's place and drilled another hole for my temp sensor, then siliconed it in place (it's underneath so can't be seen so I wasn't worried about how it looked). One more thing you'll need is a plate for the throttle body. The main difference is, on the M50 manifold, the seal for the throttle body is recessed into the manifold, whereas on the M52 it's recessed into the throttle body itself. The plate is easily made, I used a piece of 0.70mm aluminium and drilled and cut it. I'm about to make a couple more up this week, so can whip one out for you if you'd like - it doesn't need to be anything fancy or expensive to work. I have heard of people cutting the seals and then somehow joining them together, with conflicting stories about how long it lasts or how well it works.It was easy for me to make the plate so I just went that way to save any potential problems. The M52 fuel rail will need to be modified, the bracket that holds the rear clip for the injector harness needs to be cut so it fits properly. And part of the front mount for the fuel rail cover needs ground down for the fuel rail to push down properly at the front. Once that's in place, a couple of small pieces of metal can hold that in place using the original bolt holes. If you've got the M50 fuel rail cover, flip it over and you'll see the two posts, simply grind them down until you get the height you want. See http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2102134-M50-Fuel-Rail-Cover-Modification-(Short-DIY-w-Pictures) for some pics. As for the second part of your post, I'm reading conflicting stories about whether a catch can works for these motors or not - some are saying they are running a catch can venting to air without a problem, others are saying it causes all sorts of problems. Others here might be able to chime in and let you know of their experiences? Hope this helps!

Yeah I hear you there, what I used has held up well so far (not track use but cops a fair thrashing), doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere or anything like that, it might last? Bit of sealant/glue on the tubing when putting it together might do the trick? If I remember I'll have a look and see if I've got any of the tubing left over, you're welcome to grab it and try it. Yes in theory emissions stuff is supposed to be functioning 100% for a road car, how often that is actually checked is another thing....... especially when you see cars belching smoke everywhere and they pass warrants, yet they are worried about whether a piece of plastic works like new on some cars for the sake of minor air emissions........ sorry, I'm used to the Australian system, far more stringent checks on all cars, I don't understand this NZ WOF system at all, they miss so many major things and can be fooled so easily. But I digress, apologies to the TA

Sorry have been a bit busy last couple of days. If you're going the PCV delete route, it's far easier, I'll try grab a pic of the M50 manifold tomorrow to explain what I mean. Either way, there are ways around it, talked to the guy I'm setting this manifold up for today and he's also doing the PCV delete so will make it a whole lot easier. But will try to explain a couple of different ways it can be done. PCV can be vented to air instead of to the intake manifold, hence the idea of going to a separate catch can/PCV delete route. I'm assuming you're talking about the hose going into the PCV? If you locate the PCV in the right spot, no hose modifications are needed. If you move it however, think outside the square........ The hose from the cylinder head to the PCV is only carrying vapors (in theory), and shouldn't be a whole heap. I got away with mine with a butchered setup, had to extend the hose by 20mm (bad position for the PCV lol), ended up cutting it and slipping a piece of fish tank hose inside both sections..... quite a snug fit..... It works for now, about to do away with the PCV anyway so the whole setup will change. Yes butchered I know, was in a spot and needed the car running, but hey it works and where the join is, no one can see it.

The big black plastic thing is your PCV (crankcase vent), there's a plastic hose that runs from it to your cylinder head, and a small rubber hose that goes to the dipstick tube. The silver metal thing is your ICV (idle control valve). The M52 manifold has connections for them both where they push fit into the back of it, whereas the M50 manifold only has space for the ICV. How they connect depends completely on which kit you buy and how you mount them. Looking at the photo above, I would almost suggest whoever made that has just drilled holes to fit both the PCV and ICV, then made up a bracket to mount them. As far as I know, the PCV can be removed, however you will need to modify your setup to fit a filter or oil catch can - someone else may be able to chime in here and explain that better and what is needed. It shouldn't cause any problems with OBDII in theory. The ICV shouldn't cause any issues with OBDII either, however you may not get the car to idle properly without it. I'm back home tomorrow so should be able to get you some pics explaining the connections better, and show you how I plan on doing the next manifold swap.

I too am following this..... given the expense of aftermarket cams as previously mentioned, I'm actually looking at getting my cams reground instead to try and avoid all these issues. Will be interesting to know what other people's input is.

Having done the swap on my car, and about to do it on another, there's a couple of different ways of doing it without any fitting kits, while keeping the PCV and ICV. The way I did mine is a bit rough and really want to redo it just to tidy things up, it's simply a matter of making sure there's holes in the right spots for the connections and blocking off the ones you don't need. The second one I'm doing will involve a little more work but will be far neater, if I remember I'll grab some pics for you as I do the swap and show you how I've completed it. It will take time and patience to do it right, but it's worth it in the end once it's back up and running. Others may have experience using one of the various kits found overseas so may be able to chime in on that. ABS - I'm not sure if that's something that can be removed from the DME/ECU? Clutch control? I'm assuming you're talking about the clutch delay valve? If so, I think this is as simple as removing a valve from the clutch line at the slave cylinder?

He's in Invercargill, I think he's had an offer on the 3 x alloys, I'm waiting to hear if they've gone yet or not.

I've passed your number onto him earlier, hopefully he's gotten in touch and can help you out. I keep running into people lol..... Anyone interested in an E36 Coupe leather interior? Complete interior in full leather including door cards, I have been told it's reasonably tidy apart from one small rip in the drivers seat. I can get pics if anyone's interested. Also have access to an E30 320i sedan, body is a bit rough but appears reasonably complete minus the gearbox, if anyone needs something let me know and I'll see if it's any good. And there will be a Getrag manual conversion kit up for grabs shortly too, everything including pedals, clutch lines, tailshaft etc. if there's any interest in that. All this stuff is advertised elsewhere, first in first served basis but thought I'd offer it here as well.

Hey, that's a completely fair call and you've asked a valid question, I agree too - didn't think to look for a stamping on it anywhere so will pay to check it before offering it as a genuine Momo item.

I'll pass them onto him tomorrow. I'm not sure, will check with him tomorrow and let you know.

I know a young kid who is parting out 2 x E36 318i's, he's a good kid to deal with and realistic with prices. There's not a lot left but I grabbed a couple of pics yesterday of a couple of things people on here might be interested in. First pic of the mags, there's 3 of these. Second pic, unfortunately only one. All four have nearly brand new tyres on them. Momo steering wheel complete with boss kit. One complete tool kit - the rest of the tools (not in the picture) are in the boot. If anyone's interested in anything shown or anything else, make an offer and I will get him to contact you - he's not a member on here. I've got a fair idea on what's left on both cars.

Interesting...... thanks for the input Tom, I haven't gotten as far as even trying to configure or connect it yet, got sidetracked with a few other things that popped up but will keep this in mind.

Yes, made sure of that when I was putting it together, it's funny how the strangest little things can make a big difference lol. Thanks all for the input, just come back from a test drive, no more vibrations. It was the missing bolt after all, so glad to report all is well. Will track down a set of new bolts and replace them all to stop it happening again. So back to terrorising the streets and putting boy racers back in their place for me hehehe.

Correct, 3 from the tailshaft to the guibo and 3 from the guibo to the output flange. One of the guibo to output flange bolts was missing. I've managed to put another bolt in there for now, see if that fixes it while tracking down the correct bolts for it. Kind of suspect it didn't like the absolute hiding I gave the car lol. Will know next time I take the car out if that was the problem or if I need to look further, next on the list will be hanger bearing and just work my way backwards.

Sorry, when I said "come loose" I meant "come loose and fallen out completely" lol so only has two out of 3 bolts holding it together

Just the front half, undid it at the joint and slipped the manual half onto the auto rear. Yes, did all that. Think I discovered the problem last night, a bolt has come loose from the joint, one that passes through the guibo and onto the output flange on the box. So suspect that's the cause of it. So will hunt down a replacement bolt, check all the others and see if that fixes it. Strange that it came loose and disappeared, so will be putting loctite on the rest for extra insurance.

Interesting.... I shall look for the torque specs and retorque the mounts, see if that helps. I'm assuming it's installed correctly as it was still on the front half of the tailshaft, I didn't remove it. Is there an easy way to check?

So I swapped the auto out for a manual, all went well... Thursday I had to travel from Invers to Cromwell for business, got up there not a worry. On the way back, even quicker trip (yes gave the car death as I do lol), all was well until I hit Invercargill and stopped for fuel. Once back in the car, there was a strange vibration, wasn't there the rest of the time. I'ts a Getrag box, everything has been swapped over for a couple of weeks now and working fine, first time I've ever noticed this problem. Vibrations start at about 2k rpm and go through to around 3, maybe 3500. Happen in every gear, worse under load but still present while cruising/engine braking. No vibrations while in neutral, so I'm thinking definitely drivetrain. Possible thoughts, it's the guibo/flex disc on the tailshaft or centre support bush is gone, allowing the driveshaft to vibrate. Or, one of the output shafts. Or maybe even a uni joint in the tailshaft. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Any ideas, ways to test without dropping the exhaust, heat shield etc? Car still drives fine (apart from the vibration), still has plenty of power etc, and balancing weights still on the wheels so that rules the obvious wheel balance out.

Massive thanks to both John and Andrew. Turns out I must've had a bad copy, as I got another .ISO file last night, opened VM Machine, pointed the operating system to the new ISO file and.... lo and behold, EasyDIS installed..... then GT1............ So next step (sometime over the weekend lol) will be to work through all the advice here on the settings, then I can test it out. Again, thanks to both for your input and help, it's very much appreciated!

Lol that's called a needle that's bent/warped over time and heat.... it'll be catching on something. Common problem with a lot of cars. Changing the needle will fix that.

It may not be the exact same tool by the same developer, however I and I'm sure John as well fully understand where you were coming from, and that's cool - no offence taken, no butt hurt received lol.