Mad_Max

Crank sensor was replaced within the last year after that failed, so I'm assuming that is fine. Wouldn't the cam and crank sensors show as faults in ISTA though? Battery is currently on charge as that was getting down, so hopefully a good charge and that will rule that out as well.

It ran for a few minutes, then sat for a few days before I did the rest of the work and the no start issue arose, so I don't think flooding is the issue. Gonna pull the plugs and double check what's going on, old school test for spark and will probably test compression too just to rule everything out. I'm still looking for that clip for ya too man, if you still need it. Have had a few searches but haven't emptied every box yet. If I find it I'll let ya know and get it on it's way to you.

A friend of mine has a '97 E39 528i, pretty straight and tidy. I checked it over for them before they bought it about 6 months ago, and couldn't fault it for it's age. Also scanned it at the time with ISTA, only minor historical fault codes came up. The only known issue with the car was bad fuel level senders. I've been getting a few small things sorted for them, to clean the car right up. Recently, swapped the drivers side sender and fuel pump over (having swapped the passenger side previously), swapped to the better MID display, and swapped steering wheels to one in better condition. After changing the fuel pump, the car was started and ran perfectly, confirming the pump itself was fine, so I then moved on to the MID and steering wheel jobs. Now, the thing won't start. Winds over sounding like it's low on compression. Scanned with ISTA again, all fault codes erased, then tried to restart. Fault code 000041 DME fault is showing, with no description in ISTA on what the fault will be. No other fault codes existing for it that will cause the non starting issue. I've confirmed the fuel pump works by pulling the fuel line at the tank, hooked up a hose into a container and turned the key - fuel flows - but will swap back to the pump that was removed, swap the MID and steering wheel back and see if anything changes. ISTA is saying (I think) that the EWS and DME are in synch, as it says all the numbers are matching - first thought was to realign the EWS in case I'd messed it up when the battery was disconnected to swap the airbag - unfortunately I can't do that in ISTA-D and (of course) ISTA-P isn't currently loading, so I can't check that. I am assuming ISTA would tell me if it was a crank/cam angle sensor, or if the EWS was out of alignment - is that correct, or is my thinking flawed? Does anyone have any other troubleshooting suggestions? I've got a parts car the same (with unknown state of the parts) so don't mind throwing parts at it, just really want to get it sorted for her as she's stuck at home atm.

I believe there are two different sizes, depending on the input shaft diameter, so it depends on if your input shaft is 12mm or 15mm. The outer diameter is the same, and the thickness doesn't matter too much. Just measure the input shaft diameter of the gearbox you are using and order the bearing to suit that. Make sure you get the bearing installed at the correct depth too.

Hey @Gaz, hope you're keeping well in these times. TBH not much has happened, I've temporarily moved it into storage (along with he B11, E34, spare E3, E36 Msport coupe and about 10 other cars) to build the workshop/home office area, so I'm needing to get that sorted first before really getting into it. I have got a good, old school panelbeater lined up - will get the E34 to him first (that's only minor work) to make sure he's as good as I'm told, before stripping the E3 and getting to work on it. Have been wondering what a twin carb M30B28 motor is worth these days, as the spare E3 is the 2.8l version. Will have to look into that. There may also be another long-term project to do with that spare E3, the body is a bit too rusted to be economically restored so it may end up becoming something a bit different....... but we'll see. First things first, I need to get this workshop/office done ☺️

Got codes 38 and 39, and 3 unidentified...... if you have no luck, let me know asap as will be going out to stored cars over the weekend and can go through them too. Worst case if you're stuck and need it done straight away, use a double hex socket, smash it over the outside. Just make sure it's a tight fit (can check what size I've used before, it's an imperial one). Has worked for me every time.

A couple of snails racing across the garage floor??

Trying to help a friend with an assessment but I don't have enough time to refresh myself with Visual Basic. It's an assignment for an Open Polytechnic course that has certain parameters, and a basic GUI. I can post/email the parameters and what I think is a part file that someone else had been working on if that gives someone a head start. I'm not sure how complete the file is or even if it is even within the guidelines of the assessment. Anyone out there willing to see what they can do to help?

Speak to Kiel at Kelfords (if he's still there), I gave him all of Cat Cams and Schricks specs 4 years or so ago when I was looking at getting mine done so he knows what is around. The problem is, the last I heard, is that no one is producing blanks for the M5X cams, there isn't a lot of material you can take off the BCD, and there is only so much you can do before the lobe becomes too large for the bearing ledge, as well as the lifter clearances becoming a problem. I'd have to look further into it but I do believe there is a VW? Audi? off the shelf solid lifter that drops straight in and reduces a lot of the problems with the lifters.

Couple of quick clamps from the Warehouse and a pair of vice grips, you'll get it within factory spec easily. Have always done Jap twin cam motors using only a couple of spanners and vice grips, it's not hard to get it within the spec using simple tools. Agreed they are mediocre in terms of lift and duration, better/faster gas extraction is definitely a worthwhile exercise though while the cam is already out and everything is open, especially given he is wanting to go FI later down the track. I do agree aftermarket is the way to go though. Hopefully you're only talking about getting a factory cam within "factory spec"....... sorry not trying to be a smarta**e, I've heard of horror stories before where people do this sort of thing to aftermarket/ground cams and end up destroying motors because they get the wrong advice. There are some small power gains to be had by advancing the intake cam and retarding the exhaust cam slightly from factory specs, all depends on how deep into the rabbit hole you wanna go and where you want to be making the power.

Surprised no one has chimed in yet....... my opinion? You won't notice much of a performance gain with an N/A engine by just changing the exhaust cam, but if you're planning on going FI in the future, it would make sense to upgrade the cams as well - both intake and exhaust - while you've got it out. Do some research into which cams and even if you need something reground to suit the FI. I don't believe removing vanos and swapping the intake cam is all that much harder to do than the exhaust cam.

There's a guy on TradeMe, under the user name racefx1 who's got an M52B28 there for sale, and he's in Christchurch. Not sure if he'd be happy me giving out his email address but will flick him a text later and see if he's ok with that. From memory it's a complete engine with everything still there.

I might be keen on the front pads and rotors if you've still got them. Can you please flick me part numbers so I can check they'll fit? I picked up my 2006 E53 3.0D for $3k, high k's (355) but full service history and first owner did a 300k round trip 5 days a week. Apart from some minor common issues (exhaust manifold cracked, front wheel bearing going, front LCA bushes worn etc.) it runs and drives incredibly well for it's age and high k's - drove it to Auckland and back early December with zero issues. They are around, this one turned up on post-a-note - not a place I'd usually look.

I actually saw this car in person while in Auckland, touring around. It looks fantastic....... from about 500m away

Hinds Classics is the name of the shop, has a basic website with contact details http://www.hindsclassics.co.nz/. @OP6 tankguy here may be able to help you with your latest acquisition too, and he's local - even easier. @tankguy I may also be on the hunt for some E3 parts, need to go through what's good and what's needed, do you have complete cars or just some random stuff laying around?

Here's the interesting question. You buy XYZ parts at $ABC + GST. Parts turn up damaged. Will you get a refund less the GST component? Or, more importantly, will the NZ Government refund the GST component to the seller? I bet not, I bet they haven't explained that part to the sellers, as I have been stung with that already - purchased something recently online from overseas. Paid GST. Goods were faulty. Received refund less GST. NZ Government wins again.

Hahaha slightly more impressive is the fact I was towing a trailer through it all too ???

Thought I'd check the front passenger side suspension out the easy way, turns out just needs control arm bushes...... Angle is a lot more sketchy than it appears, camera just doesn't do it justice. Was a bit of fun, and simply just drove straight out (after being told I wouldn't be able to hahaha)

John, as we discussed, there are videos out there showing imperically that helicoils work far better than timeserts, are cheaper and easier to install. Have a watch of the half hour video I posted in another thread (yeah sorry, it's not a 5 minute job but the guy does a good job explaining what he's doing and why), helicoils FTW every time. Given you now know my history, I have always used, and will always use, helicoils and this video shows why. I've never, ever had a helicoil fail, pull out, or be hard to install. Do some research into the two, helicoils will give you rated pull out strengths etc. etc. Timeserts just tell you "well they should be strong enough" - they don't actually give out any figures that they will stand by. Also, note in the linked thread, Glenn @B.M.W Ltd states very clearly "Just a heads up...if you don't insert them accurately the block will be ruined. The head bolts will pull them out. Most motor re conditioners have their own special set ups to do these accurately and even they can get it wrong... ask me how I know", just another precaution....... As I discussed with you on Wednesday night, do a lot of research before doing anything like this, everyone has opinions based on their experience, some advice given is great, some just needs to be taken with a grain of salt as that person's experience. Either way, helicoil or timesert, there is a chance the block can be damaged. Again though, this is just my opinion, and, like Glenn, more than happy to give you a call whenever suits you to discuss before you decide which way to go.

I should have one, will check on Sunday when I'm home and update with condition etc. if you don't find anything sooner. Freight to Wellington should only be $5 or so, I'll work out a price as well and we can go from there. Are you after the tail light, boot lid section or both?

As well as paying GST on the duty fees, which is again a tax on top of a tax - illegal. Yes definitely a dick move by the powers that be to introduce it at this time of year...... Not true. Customs "duty" is only charged if the calculated "duty" charge is going to be $60 or more, based on the claimed "invoice total". If its under the $60 mark they don't bother trying to charge the duty as it will cost them more than they will collect. It doesn't matter what it is that's imported or where its from, its the value of the items that determines if duty is to be collected. Yes that seems to be about the magic number for duty, what the government wants though is to collect GST on absolutely everything coming from overseas - a task they might now be realising is going to be as easy as wiping an elephants bumhole with a piece of confetti......

The guy I'm staying with (Air BNB) is importing things as well, done through China, and also doesn't pay GST, there's gotta be millions of people that do it too that they can't trace....... logistical nightmare really.

If that's through Aliexpress or Alibaba, GST was paid without you knowing....... but does seem very random which sites/countries/companies they are targeting and whether or not you'll get done at the border..... very haphazard to say the least.

I'm staying in Vogeltown, wherever that may be hahaha....... location doesn't worry me too much though, you'll still be closer to me than where I am now lol, I'll be mobile so easy enough to cruise to anywhere.

Haven't struck that yet. Not sure...... I haven't paid GST on anything I've imported over the last couple of months, the sellers usually give the invoice at such a small amount they've probably worked out it'll cost them more to do their own paperwork than the GST they'll collect.