Mad_Max

Sadly, Graham has just informed me his Touring is a non starter now, taking that out of the running.......

Not just that, but you're also paying any local taxes and duties in the country of purchase, so collecting GST at this end as well is putting a tax on top of a tax.

So I've been offered an E46 325i manual Touring from a member on here, which is tempting as well........ decisions, decisions lol. Just need to figure out this elusive E34 and decide hahaha.

Just a thought, as we are all obviously struggling a bit to put a realistic ball park value on it, would it be worth spending the money to get it professionally appraised? Might give a fairer indication, as there's a couple on TardeMe varying from $18k to $40k, both autos, one has done 100k more than the other, both look to be in similar condition...... A registered valuation would also help give some justification to a selling price at the time, rather than "public opinion".

Gotcha now ?. Cheater trick that's a little brutal to remove the flanges. Puller should go over the flange and onto the end of the axle, if it doesn't fit plan B is just a large slide hammer onto the flange. If the puller fits, it makes life easier. Put as much tension on it as you can, then use your butane torch to heat just the flange. Use a CO2 fire extinguisher on the axle to help cool it real quick while the flange is hot. Expansion of the flange and contraction of the axle, and the shock of cooling the axle quickly, should help break it free ?. The other trick would be to try concentrated heat on the flange itself, like an arc welder. Run a bead around the flange (with pressure on it), the concentrated heat may be enough to expand just the flange without enough heat penetrating the axle. It's brutal but I've done the heat/extinguisher trick before to other parts with success.

Yep 3/8" is all I use, and the shortest extension possible. Haven't broken a socket, extension or ratchet yet lol. Sorry I missed what exactly you're trying to do here? And I'm assuming E36 yeah? Is it the wheel bearings you're trying to replace?

Using the standard Facebook "miles to k's conversion" most use, that's something like 689,342k's, so very high mileage...... I'll give her $100 (again Facebook conversion rates ??). Na seriously think I just about made a mess in my pants at those pics, looks like it's in great, honest condition for it's age and should fetch a worthy price, I couldn't even ballpark what it should go for but hope she gets reasonable offers for it.

I'm assuming that's what he means... in which case, here's my trick, others may know other ways. Short extension (3" or so), and attack the 3 bolts on either side at the top. I can usually undo 4 bolts aside that way, then spin the diff so the remaining bolts are at the top and go again. Then, if the spline on the axle is free and not seized to the hub, the whole axle will pull through the centre of the bearing, job done.

Hmmmm so I've just heard of an E34 540i M-Sport here in Invercargill....... think he's gonna want way too much for that. Any news on the Touring yet @BM WORLD?

Excellent, thanks Ray - just what I suspected but good to know for future reference.

Very hard to say..... the defining thing to me would be if it's being sold certed at a minimum - as you found out, changing to another cert guy caused you to have to strip things off, this may deter a lot of people if there's a perceived "risk" they have to do the same. If fully certed I'd say you'd get at least double the price. As for the actual $$$ value, very hard to say sorry - things are only worth what someone is willing to pay, just a matter of hoping the right buyer turns up at the right time.

Can I ask why that is Ray? Is it for shifter or cross member mounts to line up properly?

Agreed, the vehicle will be getting a good checking over and most likely a fair bit of work put into it over time depending on what's critical.

I'm pretty sure it will work, just make sure you get the shifter linkages and tailshaft. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but think they will bolt straight in.

Yeah I definitely haven't ruled out a 3 series, or a diesel. It'll all come down to what work the E34 wagon @BM WORLD mentioned would need immediately as I've got 2 E34 parts cars (525i and a 530i) sitting there. Personal preference for the body styling would be for the E34, but I haven't ruled anything out just yet - it's early days really. Good to hear of other's experiences towing with the 3 series platforms though, input like that is always welcome.

Hahaha yeah I saw that..... Yeah that's a much more likely story than the above lol. It does look nice and tidy, especially in that colour too. I'm not too fussed on AC given most of my time is in jSouthland, a heater is more important down this way lol. It's in the pile of "being considered" at the moment, along with Graham's. So possibly 3 potentials so far, all a bit different in their own way......

This one here yeah sensor should be easy enough to sort out, still not totally sold on an E39, though I spotted this one today. Am still hoping @BM WORLD has some luck with the E34 as well.

Link to some more info for you

If I could get the Alpina cleaned up, I'd offer that - not an M but it's different alright lol. Really needs the clearcoat sorted and a good tidy up, not sure I'll have time to get it done though.

Had a look at a diesel X5 as well, while it would be better for towing it's just not really my cup of tea..... So the search is still on. There's a reasonable E39 528i on TardeMe that may be worth checking out at some stage, though its been on there for a while now......

Yes it'll all fit and work no worries, I've done the swap from a 318i to a 328i. The only thing you may have a small issue with is clutch slip, the 4cyl clutches while fine for normal driving, don't like being dumped at high revs and will slip. You can put another flywheel/clutch combo in or get the clutch rebuilt and uprated to give more clamping force to fix this. It's most likely a Getrag 220 box that won't stand constant abuse but will last if driven right. Everything else you'll need will swap straight over from a parts car pedals will go straight in. Hole is already in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder, it's sealed with a rubber grommet. Should be a tube at the back of the master cylinder, just snip the end off it for the fluid reservoir. Mounts for the shifter linkage and clutch lines should also be in place already. Driveshaft you only need the front section, but probably just as easy to swap the whole thing. Two wires to connect under the centre console to make the reverse light switch work as well, I can't remember what pins on what connector they are. There's plenty of guides and advice around to do the job well, just search or ask if you get stuck.

Hahaha brilliant, sounds like a score!

Tell them it's worth bugger all and I'll buy it ????. No idea on market prices for them to be honest but always on the lookout for something different.......

Yep heap of options with the flywheel/clutch combo. If it was me, I'd chuck the 220 in for now, and drive it as you normally would. Change the fluid before you do lol. If it lasts, job done. If it starts making any noises or gives any troubles, then start hunting for a replacement, and it's then just an easy swap of the box, in and out within a day.

That's blasphemy right there ??? May also be twice as unreliable as an RX7 though hahaha.