NZ00Z3

Thanks everyone, M54B25 has been purchased

Hi Looking at engine replacement options for a 2000 E46 that has a M52TUB25 from the factory. Don't want to get into LVV certification over Xmas so sticking to the 2.5L options. Been researching if a M54B25 will be a direct replacement if I use the existing headers and manifold. Yes I'll drop a HP or 2 off the M54 spec's, but if the engine fits, it will do nicely for a daily drive. Its looking very promising, but I can't confirm is the existing headers will bolt onto the M54 head. Has anyone tried this engine swap or can confirm the header question? Cheers Muzz

Hi Looking for a good running BMW M52TUB25 engine for my daughters E46 323i. PM me it you have one. This post is targeted at the normal forum member who may have an engine gathering dust in their shed. I have already sent Emails to the usual commercial BMW parts recyclers including this forums sponsor. Just changed the oil in the car and found lots of metal partials, slight knock in the engine, sounds like 1 big end minimum. Time to change the engine. Have considered and researched a range of alternative engine swaps, strokers etc and have decided to stick to the 2.5 L engine so that I don't get caught in Xmas rush time delays trying to certify fitting a bigger engine. Would consider a M54B25 if someone could tell me how to set it up to run it with a Siemans MS42 DME. Regards Murray Wall Phone 021 053 6070

Hi I have checked VANOS operation with a logging app called Testo. The link below is a direct download, so only click on it if you want to down load it. http://phenoboy.kapsi.fi/testo It runs on the same platform as INPA and allows you save test data to a CSV file and in Excel create a chart of the Instantaneous and reference settings of one cam at a time. Just set it up and rev the engine through a couple of cycles and see if the VANOS is functioning. Sample Chart attached. This is a M52TUB20 with 160,000km on the clock before VANOS seal replacement. Hope this helps Regards Muzz Here's the Exhaust chart, where you can clearly see the decay due to the spring in the Exhaust Vanos cylinder pushing back the piston e.g. oil getting past the Vanos seals.

I don't know the answer but will apply a bit if science to see if it helps. The pressure in the cooling system will cycle between hot (high pressure) and cold (low pressure) conditions. If its a good condition cooling system with no leaks, weeps etc, then the pressure difference should be very close to the atmospheric pressure when you last opened it and this time when you opened it. If you have a small leak/weep, then you will be loosing a little bit of water when the engine is hot. The weep may not be two way and not draw air back into the cooling system when the engine is cold, hence causing a small vacuum. Maybe time to do a full cooling system inspection to look for weeps?

No. You are using the CD changer input into the head unit to connect the blue-tooth unit. It's a one or the other, but not both situation.

Thank you everyone for the responses. As suggested I've "run" and dropped any idea of buying a car with a N42 engine. Now looking at cars with the more familiar M52TU and M54 engines. Regards Muzz

One car of interest has an oil leak on the front of the engine, see photo. It looks to be a leaking sensor. Is this a hard repair? Change O ring or change sensor? Does the N42 engine have a common CCV system problem? Thinking about why the sensor would be leaking. Maybe a pressurised crank case due to a blocked CCV? Any suggestions? Cheers Murray

Hi Looking at several 318ti cars with N42 engines. Getting one for my daughter. I'm not familiar with the E46 or the N42 engine. Are there any common issues I should be checking for? Cheers Murray

The general wisdom from the Z3 world, to get higher HP out of the M44 is best done by fitting a supercharger. Best bang for your buck. Remember that fitting a super charger in N.Z will require certification.

Thank you

Hi Had a friends BMW in today and he whats to change the spark plugs. It has an M44 1.9L engine and I didn't get he chance to see what plugs he has in it. What are the recommended NGK spark plug for a M44 engine?

Hi Been tracking down a rear suspension clunk in the 2.0 L Z3 (E36/7) and identified it as coming from the drivers side half-shaft. There is ~10 mm axial movement in the shaft and it had migrated to the diff end resulting in the inside CV providing the suspension travel movement. The half-shaft was clunking against the diff and inside CV. There is similar axial movement on both half-shafts Moved the half-shaft to be against the outside CV and the clunk disappeared, only to return again a couple of weeks later as the shaft migrated back towards the inside CV. There is similar axial movement on the other half-shaft, but is remains positioned near the outer CV and does not clunk. The outside CV has the slip joint to provide the suspension travel movement. The RealOEM diagram shows a clip that holds the half-shaft into the inside CV. If may have come off? - Is this a common problem with BMW cars? - How hard is it to fix?

Monday. Off to Balcutha tomorrow for a man cave crawl to see a few cars and there garages

Hi Want to share this tip. Car positioning hydraulic lifts are great, they allow us to move cars into tight spots to increase storage space etc. Both Super Cheap and Repco have offerings. Unfortunately, the weakest part of the lift is the black plastic tube on the fingers that lift the wheels. The tube deforms, splits, then collapses. Root cause is insufficient internal support and the strength of the tube. Super Cheap replaced one of mine with a collapsed tube under warranty today, great service. Next stop was my plumbing supplier to purchase 1.5 m of 80 mm waste pipe, the one with the 2.5 mm thick PVC walls. This was cut to length, the caster on the finger removed and the black tube and support removed. Cut the waste pipe to length and slipped it over the black tube. Reassembled. Now I have an estimated more than double strength tube over the fingers. Works great. Regards Muzz

Do you have a wiring diagram to work by? The fault could be in the -ve (earth) or the +ve (signal) side or both. Start at the bulb holder to identify which side to fault find. - is there an earth connection when tested to another +ve power source? -Is there a signal pulse when tested to another -ve chassis earth? Once you know which side the fault is on, work your way back towards it source (fuse or chassis earth bolt) using the wiring diagram to find the fault.

Suggest that a wiring diagram and volt meter are going to be needed to do some proper fault finding rather than throwing parts at an unknown problem.

Hi Brent Whenever I'm researching a change, I use RealOEM to sort through the part numbers of the different models of car. You can put your VIN number in and get the part numbers specific to your car, then select, say, a 2.2 L Z3 and check out the drive shaft, mounting cross member and electronic module part numbers etc. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?product=P&archive=1&series=Z3&body=Roa&model=Z3+2.0&market=EUR&prod=20000400&engine=M52&steering=R I suspect that the mechanical part will be easy, maybe having to change the front section of drive shaft. The electronics will likely require a bit of coding. Also check out the LVV modification rules to see if this is a modification that needs to be certified. Probably is if you have to change part of the drive shaft, then you'll need to add drive shaft hoops for both sections. Remember to talk to the modification certifier before you do any work. A little guidance at the beginning can avoid problems later on.

Yes it is. It Siena Red with beige interior. I have the 2.0L Mora Red Z3 with black and white interior as a daily drive.

Great looking car, Red Z's are the best.

Hi Quick question to seek clarity. When you are talking about LSD are you meaning clutch pack LSD or Torsen LSD?

Hi Getrag 220 5 speed manual box in my Z3 had the MTF- LT-2 label. I put in Redline D4 ATF which is a GL4 rated oil and don't have any problems. The research I did showed that it had the same viscosity at 40C and 100C as the original oil. Regards Muzz

Getting shudders in the clutch sometimes when starting off. In reverse or 1st gear. Reading the forums, its due to hot spots on the face of the flywheel. These hot spots don't wear at the same rate as the rest of the flywheel face, hence they start to get sticky. If I'm going to be replacing the clutch plate and pressure plate, I may as well replace the flywheel and get away from the shudders. I stuffed up refitting the slave cylinder after a hand bleed and did not engage the clutch fork correctly. Now I have the internals of the slave cylinder in the bottom of the bell housing. Gear box coming out in the morning to retrieve the parts, so may as well check out the clutch while I'm in there.

Looking at buying a new flywheel/clutch for a Z3, M52TU20 engine, Getrag 220 gearbox, 160,000 km on the clock. Factory fitted with 228 mm clutch. Flywheel is the standard 6 cylinder dual mass one that will also take the 240 mm clutch Priced up a new dual mass flywheel and clutch kit from Pelican parts and it comes to $2,300. A bit too steep. Looking at the NZAD Stage 2 kevlar clutch for $1,260: - It's a 240 mm clutch. Will it fit in my gear box? - Can anyone tell me how it feels on the peddle? The car is a daily drive, so not looking for a hard clutch peddle that will wear out your leg in stop/start traffic. What other options are there to source a full flywheel/clutch kit at a reasonable price? Thanks Muzz

I run NGK BKR6EQUP in my M52TU and M54 engines. Get them for about $20 each through trademe, Trader does not always have them listed but they come up every couple of weeks. Been told that Bosh plugs have a habit of coming loose over time in the M52 and M54 engines. Have not used Bosh plugs at all so can't confirm this from my own experience.