NZ00Z3

Hi Been having a couple of problems with the clutch on the EURO 2.0L Z3 since I purchased it in January 2016. Car has traveled 99,000 miles 1) Car would not go straight into reverse when cold. Had to force it into 3rd then it would go into reverse (engine running). Gear changes always felt notchy even after an oil change to Redline D4 ATF. Its a Getrag 220 gearbox and I was looking at pulling it out to do shift pins. 2) Sometimes there is a shuddering clutch when taking off in 1st gear. More prevalent in summer. On a hot summers day of city driving, it will do it for periods of time but not others. Could force it to shuddering by doing a hill start in second gear. I was investigating the cost of doing a full replacement of the clutch thinking it was the pressure plate. Read a TIS on identifying where a gear change problem is likely to be located. It said to start the car and try and put it into gear. If it was difficult, keep a constant force on the gear lever and turn the car off. If it went into gear just as the engine stopped, then it was in the clutch. If it did not go into gear, then it was the gear box. My testing consistently showed that it was in the clutch. During research on clutch replacements, I read lots of forum posts about the rubber clutch line getting spongy with age. A spongy clutch line could be the cause for both issues. Jacked up the car, got my good lady to push the clutch and I inspected the rubber clutch line. I could not see or fell anything wrong. I looked up the cost of getting a UUC stainless steel clutch line shipped from the USA. Around a tenth of the cost of a full clutch replacement. Decided to give it a go as I would be fitting one during the clutch replacement anyway as per forum advice. Fitted the UUC stainless steel clutch line today, gravity bled the clutch, started up the cold car to go for a test drive: - It went straight into reverse. - No shuddering clutch, not even when trying a 2nd gear hill start. - Smooth gear changes It sounds like the clutch was not fully disengaging. I guess there was a balance in forces between the force to expand the rubber hose and the force to fully disengage the clutch. The clutch not fully disengaging must have been wearing the clutch plate and maybe the gear box synchro's. One happy chap having just avoided doing a full clutch replacement and stripping a gear box that doesn't need fixing. Thank you to all the posts on this and other similar forums that assisted in achieving this outcome. Regards Muzz

I've been known to go to Picton from Timaru via Athurs pass and the West Cost. Nice to get away from the straight roads, sitting there on cruise control for hours. The West Coast puts some turns into the trip. A bit like driving through the King Country instead of Taupo when heading up the North Island. Even better with the top down.

My Ferry catching tip is: Wellington to Picton. Book on the Bluebridge 2:30 am ferry. For an extra $40 you can book a cabin. They will give you early boarding at 11:30 pm. Straight to bed before midnight, 5 1/2 to 6 hours sleep, off the Ferry around 6:30 am (breakfast on board is always an option). You'll have a full day's drive, be refreshed and have beaten lost's of traffic. It's the cheapest nights accommodation in Wellington I've found. Long distance Travel tips: - take water with you and drink it, especially if you start feeling tired - Plan and take regular stops. Driving no more than 2 hours in a hop. - If there is a lookout or place of interest, stop and each one or every second one etc. Read the placard, enjoy the view, see some of N.Z's history and learn about your country. Oh and that's another fun stop to help keep you awake, safe and alive.

I'm in Timaru and can scan your car, Check your PM's for my contact details.

Hi It sounds like you have a poor resistance connection somewhere in your fuel gauge circuit in the instrument cluster. The following link is for a Z3 but it may have the information you need for your 540. The clusters look similar. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1041265-Z3-Fuel-Gauge-Fixes-Stuck-Low-Fuel-amp-Wacky-Gauge&highlight=gas+gauge Hope it helps Regards Muzz

You may have your thinking about the impacts of going to a 3.91 diff around the wrong way. If you have a 4.44 ratio diff now and will be going to a 3.91, your 100 km/h revs will be lower with the 3.91 diff installed.

Unless you have an old broken/worn out key to get the chip from, its off to the dealer.

ordered the double Vanos seals and anti-rattle rings from Beian Systems yesterday. Other gaskets and stuff through E-Bay, cost around $300, then found a full kit for less http://www.ebay.com/itm/121263112925?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm interested in your 3.15 medium case E30 diff. How much?

There are only a couple of exterior painted areas on a Z3 that can not be unbolted. The small piece that runs across the rear of the convertible top and just in front of the boot lid is one. Its part of the structure of the car. You'll have to remove it to make the rear of the car usable and will need a lot of engineering redesign to remove it and replace it's strength with the new roll cage.

If you plan on going for a faster steering rack, like one from a Z3, then don't go for the offset control arm rear bushings. The Z3 rack can't manage that amount of caster and you will have overly jumpy/bumpy steering. The Z3 rack is a low ratio linear rack whereas the E36 rack is a higher ratio and non-liner, meaning that the E36 has more ability to control the forces to/from the wheels in the center position than the Z3 rack.

Hi Link to article on secondary air systems http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/2008_n408_newsletter.pdf While you are sorting out a scanner for the ABS, take out the speed sensors at each wheel and clean them. Dirty sensors are a common ABS issue. The sensors are magnetic and pick up brake dust and crap. They will look fury when you taken them out. Wipe them clean and put them back in. The ABS light will self reset while driving if this is the cause. Hope this helps Regards Murray

Hi My experience is with the E36/7 Z3, which should be very similar to the 318ti. You will need a scanner that will talk to the ABS module. The ABS codes will not be found in the ECU. On the Z3 there is a ODB2 plug by the steering column that only talks to the ECU. If I want to talk to the ECU and other modules, I need to use the 20 pin round plug under the hood. Not sure what plugs you have on the 318ti but hope this avoids a trap for you. Secondary air injection/ pumps. I have an article that tells you how to test the secondary air system. Not sure how to attach a file to this post, so PM me an email address and I'll send it to you. Crank Case Ventilation (CCV) problems are the usual cause for crank case pressurisation and leaking valve cover gaskets. A couple of quick tests: 1) Test the hoses from CCV to manifold, with a cold engine, start it up and take the oil filler cap off. The engine should start to stumble as the mixture will be lean due to the CCV system drawing in lots of air. If you try this with a warm engine, you will hear a tone change and maybe a bit of a stumble. The warm engine will be on close loop fuel mixture control and will compensate for the extra air in the mixture by dumping more fuel into the mixture. 2) Check for a blocked oil return hose. Engine off. Carefully remove the CCV hose going to the valve cover (old hoses will crumble). Blow into the hose and listen for air bubble in the oil near the dip stick. I use a piece of garden hose to make it easier to blow into the CCV hose. Hope this helps Regards Murray

Sounds like you have a pressurised crank case forcing oil out some where. Suggest: 1) Find the leak and order the gasket 2) Order the PCV and all associated hoses. 3) Change the PCV and all Associated hoses 4) change the leaking gasket.

Please provide the offset, it makes it easier to see if they will fit.

Symptoms are hallmark of a crank case ventilation problem

Yes, do a water hose replacement. There are a number of treads on this in that Z3 forum. Yes the Z4 are very nice cars. I have driven a couple of roadsters and coupes. They have more room, better ride and performance. The shape has yet to grow on me.

I currently own 2 Z3's. Love them. Both 2000, one is 2.0L manual and the other is 3.0L auto. I daily drive the 2.0L. So how do they go: - BMW spec's, 3.0L, 228 HP and 0-60 mile/h in 5.8 sec. It's no slouch. 2.0L 148HP 0-60 mile/h in 8.5 sec. Slower then most performance cars but still good for a mid range car. - they corner well, can have a bit of sideways shuffle if you push them really hard. Fixed by firmer suspension and front strut tower brace. - comfortable ride on OEM rubber bushings. Putting Poly sub-frame bushings in will stiffed the rear end for performance driving and give a slight increase in NVH and amplified diff noise. There is an alternative OEM bushing mod to poly bushings. - Economical? both cars average 9.5L/100km around town and 8.3l/100KM on the open road. Both have given 7.6l/100M on long lazy trips when a constant speed can be maintained. - Performance. The 3.0L ticks along at 2,200 RPM at 100 KM/H and has plenty of get up a go when needed. It will kick down from 5th to 3rd and go, or you can flick it into tiptronic and drive it like a manual. The 2.0L is a good daily drive at 3,000 rpm at 100 km/h, nothing startling in performance until you get it above 3,500 rpm. - Parts are easy to get - Can easily fit cruise control to 2000 or later models. Expensive cruise control mod for earlier cars. - recommend only buying a 6 cylinder car, The 1.9's are getting higher KM now and have the same "behind the head heater hose Y connector" failure problem that kills the 318ti engines - Higher powered manual Z3's tend to rip the dif mount cross member out of the boot if you performance drive them. Poly sub-frame bushings control the stresses better to help avoid this problem - really excellent support through international forums, check out http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?137-Z3-(E36-7-E36-8) Especially the FAQ's at the top where you will get to read all about the regular things that need fixing. - My preferred Z3 would be a 3.0L manual. - I just love the top down driving and the curved shape of the car. - Lets face it, the speed limit is 100km/h. Any Z3 will comfortably perform for the normal driver adequately. If you are into faster acceleration, then pick a Z3 with a larger motor. Hope this helps Muzz

Did you get this fixed? Sometimes the hose from the valve to the dip stick is blocked or the dip stick tube is blocked. This results in the oil not draining into the sump. Need to be able to blow air down the tube and hear bubbles in the sump. If there is a blockage, the valve fills with oil, oil goes into the manifold (slowly) and the crank case is pressurized by blow by.

Hi there BMW fans I'm a new forum member from Timaru. Have two Z3's, both are 2000, 1 is 3.0L auto and the other is 2.0L manual. Purchased the Siena red 3.0L Z3 about 18 months ago, this was my first ever BMW. Just love the top down cruising. It low km's and does not need anything done to it, a bit boring in that regard. Purchased the Mora red 2.0L Z3 in January, its a high km's car and was in need of lots of TLC. Been having a blast working on it and sorting out all the odds and ends. Have set up INPA on the workshop computer to help with the diagnostics. Every thing works now and no error codes. Currently finding parts for the suspension and steering refresh. This car is my daily drive. Cheers Muzz

Hi I'm looking for a medium case diff from an E30 or Z3, 3.15 ratio or very similar. Open, Torsion or LSD will all be considered. Regards Muzz