///M

That black manual for sale in Penrose is sold! That was quick- didn’t even get a chance to check it out. Hope it went to a good home 👍🏼

Thanks for that qube! Out of interest- does the steering load up in the corners in comfort mode? I should really take one out for a test drive...

I’ve always been intrigued by the M135i- a real wolf in sheep’s clothing. I’m curious- what’s the steering feel like compared to the more traditional hydraulic steering of the E-series cars (130i etc)?

Is it worth adding the anti-shudder fix when doing the fluids and filters? I don't have the shudder but need to change the transmission fluoid ASAP (over 130,000km)

Agree- the style 193s look really nice ??

Not too long- they've only been on for a few months and look great. As others have said, we shouldn't any major corrosion issues with our climate. I can live with some surface rust if it ever gets to that stage. Also, it's worth keeping in mind that coilovers are a wear item and you'll eventually need to rebuild them or purchase a new set. If the surface coating can last till this stage is it worth spending more for the shiny stuff? I'm only planning to keep my little 130i for another 3 years or so before moving to something else so I'm pretty confident the ST coilovers will be able to see me over with no issues

Agree with Matthew, if you want the V2s you may as well spend a bit extra and get the V3s. The KW V1/ST-X are at KWs recommended settings and if you set the ride height appropriately they’re a great dd/’fast road’ coilover. MCA coilovers are also worth a look. They’re good quality and made in Aus so the shipping should be reasonable. For me, bang for buck, the ST line can’t be beat.

That would probably be in the middle of the designed lowering range, however I'd ceck out the TuV data sheet to confirm. Some of the coilovers you listed might get you lower without having to compress the spring too much. I purchased the coilovers from demontweeks in the UK. Shipping relatively quick. No issues with cert- the alignment settings were near enough stock (due to the height). I added M3 camber arms which put me close to the e92 M3 settings.

I've currently got ST X coilovers on my 130i and I have nothing but good things to say. They're quiet, comfortable and provide noticable handling improvements. I have no regrets and would purchase them again. It's worth noting that the ride comfort (with these coilovers) is depedent on how much you lower your car. If you want it slammed, it's going to feel terrible. My car's about ~340mm hub centre to arch and it's perfect imo. Eibach pro street s coilovers are very similar to the ST-X/KW V1 (same basic damper) but sprung and valved to be slightly more comfortable. They're also SS.

@Herbmiester Out of interest, what’s the drivability like for the stage 1 OTS map? Did you do any logs; any issues? I really like the idea of a M135i in the near future and was looking at various tuning routes- MHD seems to be the go to option for set and forget.

The sheet’s laying in Auckland unfortunately. Car was aligned at P&S auto (great bunch of guys btw) and was very similar to M3 specs as per below. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192175

I highly recommend Chris’ suggestion with regards to the M3 alignment; totally transformed the feel of my car (coupled with the control arms). Steering feel and turn in is sublime!

Hi Dave, Yip, it’s a genuine e90 M3 FSB. It was planned for the 130i but I eliminated most of the roll by fitting some coilovers and I’m very pleased with how the car’s riding and handling and thus it’s surplus to my requirements. Same goes for the rear subframe bushings- I’m sure it’ll provide positive improvements but for a DD which sees occasional backroads I don’t feel it’s necessary for me. Kyle

Hi folks, I've got a few parts I no longer require; items are brand new (unopened). Full Nolathane rear subframe bushing replacement (very similar to the Whiteline kit) $375 https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2638621896 Nolathane rear subframe inserts $100 https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2638621904 I've also got a used e92 M3 front sway bar (with bushings) if anyone's interested pn.31352283515 $200 Any questions just ask. -Kyle

I wish they would do a v3 for the 6hp21! Glad you’re enjoying the update! Did the v3 stage 2 get autoblips on downshifts in s mode? How’s d mode- were the shift points changed at all?

Silly question; Fuchs Titan 6006 states it's suitable for the ZF6HP transmission but does that also mean it meets the minimum specs (ZF TE-ML 11B and Shell M-1375.4) or are the 2 mutually exclusive? I'd really like Pentosin ATF1 but the shipping costs are a bit crazy (based on the current exchange rate)! Has anyone found an NZ distributor for Pentosin or ZF LG6? TIA

For those with the xHP tune; what stage are you running? Are there any drawbacks?

Agree with @Allanw - the 1.4 TSI motors and gearboxes are absolute garbage!

Having had 3 VW GTIs (2x Mk5 and 1x Mk6) over the past few years- I can shed some light on these cars. Both engines are great, very tunable and pretty reliable for the most part (though there are some things to watch out for). With that being said, I’ve never had an issue with either the FSI or TSI engines. The most common things to watch out for include: FSI -potentially high oil consumption (the culprit is usually the PCV system). Easy fix -Dodgy diverter valve. Many upgrade to the revised revision D diverter valve or aftermarket. Easy fix -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Cam follower wear. Check cam follower every 2-3 years and replace when required. Easy fix -Still uses a cambelt. Replace as required (including ancillaries) -Stage 3 (i.e. turbo upgrade – k04 etc) needs an upgraded fuel pump TSI -Dodgy cam chain tensioner (early models up to 09/2012 build dates). Catastrophic engine failure if this goes bad. Not a cheap fix due to labour. -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km There are other issues that I failed to list such as intake manifolds going bad, cracked intake pipes etc but these aren’t too common… The DSGs are another matter altogether. The Mk6 DSG is better programmed than the Mk5 (blip downshifts, a bit smoother etc) but both can be very temperamental if not serviced correctly. VW requires servicing every 60,000km. If there’s no record of this being done I’d walk away. Make sure you drive a few vehicles to get a feel for the transmission as some might have clutch wear (particularly the imports sitting in Tokyo traffic). If you get a good one- you’ll be sorted as long as you take care of it. They’re great gearboxes overall just a bit hit or miss; shopping around and test drives are key… Finally, 04-08 Mk5 GTIs have hydraulic steering which I prefer over the slightly numb electric racks of the later models. With all that being said, they’re pretty solid cars and I enjoyed my ownership with them. If you have any other questions just ask- happy to help

I was considering this. What stage are you running? Keen to hear your review/impressions. Knowing @M3ANs good fortune he probably already has the tune. Haha

Great purchase! I had my eye on this one for a while and nearly pulled the trigger- glad to hear it went to an enthusiast. You should check to see if the mid-pipe’s been deleted too- this could exacerbate the noise of the m performance backbox. Also, the m performance airbox apparently makes a booming sound at cruising speed- read here (solution included) https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18833

$100 on TM at the moment https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/auction-2553476838.htm I ordered a set of poly bushings myself- cheaper than M3 bushings and easier to install!

If your subframe bushings are old, the inserts only serve as a band-aid solution. With that said, anything’s better than the squishy RSB and if you’re on a budget (and your existing bushings are in good condition) they’re viable. Keep in mind this is conjecture based on what I've read on various forums

Thanks gents- this info has been very helpful!

I was considering the poly subframe bushes but was a bit concerned there might be squeaks and other odd noises. I've had bad experiences previously with annoying poly sway bar bushes. I'll definitely take another look into it. Thanks guys!