jon dee

Looks OK to me. I only used mine on wifi as it is supposed to be faster and more reliable than bluetooth. If you can pick one up locally that will get you going soonest. I know that there are other apps out there that are supposed to be better and probably are, but I just get something simple as I don't intend to be trying to learn how to code and do all sort of trick stuff. I'll leave that to someone who actually knows what they are doing and has a decent laptop Cheers...

I used one of these for IOS that I got from Aliexpress (wifi version). Worked fine with Bimmercode but I don't have Bimmerlink. You would need the Android version and there should be someone selling them locally. Vgate iCar2 obd2 bluetooth scanner ELM327 V2.1 obd 2 wifi icar 2 car tools elm 327 for android/PC/IOS code reader free shipping Cheers...

There is a substantial profit margin in the price of a cup of coffee. One of the reasons your local high street sports a good number of "cafes" selling expresso coffee. Supply and demand really... I buy the Nescafe Cappuccino Sachets (26 per box at ~$13/box) and make my own coffee at work or at home. Tastes 90% as good as barista coffee at 10% of the cost Cheers...

To be honest I haven't really done anything with it other than code the battery. I'm pretty much a set and forget guy, and if everything is working OK I just leave it alone. But it does seem to be able to access a lot of modules and change a good range of settings. It also worked off the bat with my existing wireless dongle, so that meant less fighting with the D-Can cable I use the cable with MHD and that deters me from "fiddling" with tunes. Now that I've found settings I am happy with for my style of driving and I'll stay with them. Cheers...

I used Bimmercode to change the type/rating and then used MHD to register the battery. Don't know how kosher that is but it seemed to work OK for me. Beats dicking round with a laptop and that crazy inpa/insta stuff Cheers...

MHD has a "register battery" function listed under RESET ADAPTIONS. This is only useful if you are doing an exact 1 for 1 replacement with a new battery. Otherwise you will need to code changes to to the battery type and AH rating. Cheers...

Nice work Charles... thanks for posting the graphs With those Stage 1 and Stage 1+ pulls did you have downpipes installed ? Just wondering if the results you got would be relevant for my 335i with OEM downpipes ? I'm a kind of "set and forget" guy so now that the car is running nice I haven't bothered to do any logging. Cheers

I don't even know what this is.... but I want one

Too much sophistication... not enough beard Cheers...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0V-ct_sdZs Cheers...

Hmmm.... if you had the tune done recently I would be inclined to give the guys who did the tune a call. Tell them what happened. If you go to a BMW service centre they may decide to update your DME to the latest factory software and that will overwrite your tune. That would be a nuisance !!!!! Cheers...

The wording of the advisory does not say stop driving, so whatever the fault is/was it should not be a major. If you need to use the car I would suggest that you drive it carefully around the block first to make sure it is not doing anything strange. If there are no more messages, then drive "moderately" without using high rpm's or full power acceleration until you have had it checked at a BMW approved workshop. Cheers...

Side effect is that the rise of the ugly BM will help push the price of the classic BM's up... up... up Cheers...

Thanks for the update And you can be happy that your fuel system is good to go for another 100,000 km Cheers...

Engine tuning is a competitive business, and peak numbers make for good advertising However, not all chassis dynos are made the same. Testing the same car on three different dynos on the same day will often give three different peak power/torque readings. So it pays to remember that the primary benefit of any dyno is being able to measure if the changes the tuner is making are improving the performance of the engine. Drivability is more to do with the shape of the power/torque curves when displayed on a graph. For a road car having good torque in the rpm range where you do most of your driving is more important than having peak power close to redline. A "Stage 1" tune is an entry level tune that does not require any component upgrades. The stock intercooler, turbo, injectors etc are all capable of handling the extra power. If you would like 50% more power (which is possible) things start getting serious and component upgrades will be necessary to handle the extra power and keep the car safe. That's when it starts getting expensive !!! Cheers...

Chip Tuning NZ claim a 25% increase in power and a 32% increase in torque on a stock (unmodified) engine. Indications are that there are no supporting modifications required for operation at the raised output. No dyno time is required as the tune has already been optimised and tested for your specific engine. This is no different to the Off The Shelf (OTS) tunes offered by the likes of MHD. A proven chip tune may leave a little on the table (be a little more conservative) compared to a custom tune, and I don't consider that to be a bad thing. By comparison, a custom dyno tune allows the tuner to push the envelope a little further as the engine performance under load can be monitored and adjusted. Effectively, the tuner will install a tune file developed on the same engine and then tweak it on the dyno. Having the tune file available will shorten the actual tuning process. But it is unlikely to lower the price, as the tuner will have invested time in developing the original tune and will want to recoup that cost on subsequent tunes. A 25% bump in power will liven your car up and make it more fun to drive. For a bit more money you may get a little extra power from a custom tune, but that depends on the skill and experience of the tuner. Maximum power on the dyno does not always equate to the best driving car on the road. Ask both these companies if they are able to put you in touch with the owner of a 116i that they have tuned. See if you can arrange a test drive before you decide. Good luck

Last gasp option... it looks like that horn has an adjustment screw on the back. If the existing horn makes a sound like an adolescent duck with a frog stuck in its throat, it would be worth trying to get a tool into that adjustment and turn it. One way should raise the tone and the other way should lower the tone. However, if you have 12V at the horn and can't get it to make a noise by turning the screw in either direction you are out of luck. Cheers...

Yeah... was a long time ago and not on a BMW, but I think I ended up using the bracket on the new horn. It had the wiring connection in a different alignment to the original, but I was able to "stretch" the wiring to reach with a bit if finagling Mind you, the horn attached to the chassis with a bolt and not a rivet, and I was able to bend the bracket to make the horn fit in the available space. Relocating the horn might be an option ? Cheers...

Having trouble visualising this.... with the wheel off and the arch liner removed, can you get a spanner on the nut ? Image looks like there is only a half nut holding the bracket and that will make it harder to get a good grip with a spanner. And, if memory serves, those nuts are damn tight meaning just heaving on it with a spanner may only twist the bracket. Have you tried getting the bracket off the new horn ? Cheers...

Did you solve this mystery ?? Cheers...

Seeing how the DME controls the Fuel Supply Control Valve, it surprises me that it doesn't throw a HPFP related trouble code Anyways here is the last part of your log. For the life of me I can't figure out where the fuel is coming from ?? The rail pressure is on the floor, boost is going up but the trims are taking out fuel and the AFR's are not far from where they should be... that's fcuking crazy !!! Cheers...

Can't speak for BMW's but in general that seems like proper behavior. The first helps prevent flooding and running the battery down, and the second prevents trying to crank the engine when it is already running. Cheers...

It almost looks like the pump speed controller has given up controlling, and the pump is running in some kind of limp home mode. If the controller was working it would not allow the huge overshoot you see when you come off the gas. Here is a detailed description of how the HPFP works (God bless Google and all who sail in her). Since you lost pressure suddenly I think it is worth checking to see you did not shake the plug loose on the Fuel Supply Control Valve. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showpost.php?s=24ab971231a46b65ddcf06199447cdbe&p=5752164&postcount=9 Cheers...

Doesn't look as if there is much wrong with your LPFP. The fluctuations are probably due to the pump control trying to keep up with corrections on a rapidly changing demand. Here is one of my N54 logs for comparison... If you can visualize a RMS smoothing of the output it would be staying pretty close to the target pressure. Cheers...

HPFP don't look well... on that second little blip it just runs and hides Cheers...