jon dee

Do you see brinelling on the surface of the cross stubs ? Are any of the needles broken or flattened ? Are you still using the rubber donut coupling at the gearbox end ? If you have had three universals fail in similar fashion you may have something pretty unusual going on like a torsional vibration. More likely if you have eliminated the rubber donut. Closer examination of the bearing failure mode could provide some clues.

Pretty much sums up the Aussie sense of humour....

It seems a little confused as to what it is supposed to be A case where the whole is less than the sum of its parts.

When you take the failed bearing out is it full of red "rust" ?

Isn't that what all the parties do ?

Safety is the trump card that gets pulled out of the hat any time they want to push through an unreasonable measure. Pure cynical politicing... they know that there is no counter argument to the Safety card. Pretty basic tactic used by government and quasi-governmental bodies when they want to introduce a draconian measure without having to provide any logical justification. Cheers... jondee

The road to nothing is an absurdity !! Its real purpose is to justify spending millions on high tech cameras and other electronic surveillance devices designed to bludgeon the motoring public into complying with ever lower speed limits. Not sure how all this enforcement and revenue generating equipment is going to stop people driving off the road and hitting a tree or pole ? Cheers... jondee

And those people who post a one line reply quoting the full three pages of images

Xmas not so good for you ?

Guy who replied is selling a side by side !

Well that's something to be thankful for this xmas

If you close the doors and windows and turn the volume up... does it make your ears bleed ? If not... needs more speakers

Purchased item via TM; picked up in Auckland Monday and delivered to me in Wellington suburbia midday Wednesday. Tracking link provided by TM indicates it was carried by Aramex. Seems that Aramex could be the default carrier if the seller uses the "Book a Courier" service provided by TM. Sorry to be the bearer of good news and spoil a decent rant

What he ^^^^ said. The M3 replacement/upgrade front LCA's use a monoball on the inner end of the straight arm. Never noticed any difference apart from the fact that the turn in was much improved over the OEM e92 arm due to the added camber Cheers...

Just copy and paste the link that appears above your video when you view it on YT. Delete the link you have currently and you're good

Car owners in cold weather countries typically have a spare set of wheels in the garage and change from summer (performance tires) to winter (snow tires) when ice and snow are expected. So I think that a comparison between a worn performance tire and a new budget SNOW tire would be more useful. But I guess when a presenter is under pressure to keep putting videos out, a pointless video is better than no video at all. My concern is that this video may encourage some drivers to continue driving on worn performance tires when they should be changing to winter tires i.e. a negative outcome, when a comparison with a correctly chosen winter would have a positive outcome. Cheers...

This vid explains how to use dielectric grease on coils... Cheers...

Use an electrical contact cleaner... something like this... https://www.crcindustries.com/products/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz.html Cheers...

Got a K+DCAN USB interface (INPA compatible) cable here in Karori. Cheers...

I was thinking that also... hahahahah Compound turbos on diesel pickups trucks are all the rage in the US . Go well on the dragstrip but I don't know that they would make much of a daily driver though. Cheers...

At that kind of boost I would expect you to have a pretty sophisticated fuel management system and a programmable ECU to keep your AFR's safe !!! Your FPR should be manifold pressure compensated to maintain constant pressure at the injectors, which means adding 2.5bar to the standard 3bar injector rail pressure i.e. 82.5psi at the pump at full noise plus whatever losses occur in the lines. Bear in mind I don't know anything about your engine and am just quoting figures for old school boosted Jap engines I believe return-less systems may operate at a higher rail pressure, something like 65psi, so probably easier to compensate. In tank pumps usually have a check valve built-in to prevent drain back. In the case of return-less systems the check valve helps to prevent hard hot starting by maintaining pressure in the rail to reduce the chances of vapor-lock after the engine is turned off. Cheers...

Give it another go without the check valve. Keep an eye on the electrical wiring, fuses and relays associated with the fuel pump. If any of them get hot to touch then they are either faulty or overloaded. If you can lay your hands on a clamp meter try and get a reading on just what current the pump is drawing. The pump motor uses fuel as a cooling medium, so every time the fuel circulates thru the pump and back to the tank it picks up heat. In itself that is not a big deal unless you are racing and want to keep your fuel temperature down. That check valve is most likely intended to be used in the fuel line to the rail, possibly screwed into the outlet of a fuel filter installed next to the engine. Even so, a 1.5mm orifice is tiny, and whatever pressure drop is caused by the spring would be dropping the rail pressure by an equivalent amount while the engine is running. Personally, I would not use anything branded by AEM. Cheers...

Some useful information here.... https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5245/~/what-size-fuel-pump-do-i-need%3F The 400lph pump wants to push 400lph down the pipe and if there is no more than 40psi backpressure it will draw 10.68amps. However, if you are utilising the factory fuel lines and bypass regulator sized for less than (say) 115lph, then having to pass more than three times as much fuel is very likely to be creating quite a bit more than 40psi backpressure. Your pump is now a fuel heater recirculating all that excess fuel back into the tank and drawing more amps than expected. The pump motor will be a series wound DC motor and and is rated to deliver a certain amount of power (Watts) at 12.5V. So long as the power demand (load) stays constant, there is an inverse relationship between amps and volts. As the volts go down the amps will go up, and vice versa. Cheers...

That pump is rated to over 1000hp so if you are making 250hp (or something similar) the pump is WAY TOO BIG !!! Neither the factory fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator or pump wiring will be adequate to handle what that pump can deliver. I can't guess how many amps it will be drawing, but if the supply is down to 8.4 volts the current draw will be about 50% higher than it would be if you had 12.5V at the pump. Sounds like the fuse was right on the verge of blowing before you put the check valve in line, and the extra bit of added resistance to flow was enough to finish it off. I think that you can count yourself lucky that your car didn't burn to the ground You need to find a pump with a flow rating more appropriate to the flow your engine needs. If you think you have 250hp then get a pump rated at 300-350hp, that will be all you need and the factory lines, wiring etc MAY be able handle the load. Cheers...

Man speaks the truth !!! And you need them for a Cert also as I found out when I forgot to put the bump stops back on after changing the front inserts. Wrong size bump stops came with the inserts and I put them aside intending to get the correct ones, but clean forgot about them. Cert man picked it up and sent me home to pull the struts, remove the springs and fit the bump stops... one of my least favorite jobs !!!! Cheers...