Cement
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Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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Everything posted by Cement
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Just spotted this thread having not been a member for a long while, very cool and unique car !!
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Ha, same thing I was starting to think about where my left side headers will be close to ABS unit and fuel lines etc ... staying tuned
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Hopefully it will be nice ... really I just wish I didn't have to dry sump it at all but needs must.
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I forgot to add another discovery ... the front sway bar won't fit so will have to get something custom made, at some stage 😕 Bummer. Also been looking at gauges which I'll want to have in place for initial start and testing. I figure I can walk a line between JDM bling and Euro class but trying to keep it as low profile inside as possible so might end up going with Prosports Supreme series with three in the console and two on the column.
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A long time between updates, but the wheels have been turning slowly in the background with a lot of time spent designing the new dry sump oil pan and thinking things through now that the engine is mounted in the car on its proper engine mounts. Will need to get the trans mount sorted next but its going to be a funky design to allow the left side headers to have maximum clearance under the car. Only other bits completed are installation of the electronic throttle pedal instead of stock cable one which included: confirming the BMW throttle pedal is 'sensor compatible' with the Nissan ECU (yay !!!) and removing the auto pedal kickdown cam thingy. Also started laying out some fuel system bits which have been sitting in a box for ages as I need to convert the VQ to a return style system which basically involves a '4 way tap' fitting replacing the factory damper then installing an external regulator which will maintain set pressure and drain excess back to the tank. Oil pan is looking really good ... just have to confirm the exact hole locations, add in an additional scavenge port which I was not going to use originally and confirm some clearances on the car then can submit to have manufactured via an amazing service from https://www.3dhubs.com So I got a used four stage dry sump pump (with oil / air seperator) also which will need to be changed from a left to right hand mount. There is quite a bit of work and expense in getting the oiling system under control which is a bummer but should ultimately be a really good solution. May need to sell a kidney once I organise fittings, hoses, reservoir, breather, vacuum regulator etc etc etc A couple of snaps checking the dry sump design for clearance around the crank / rods as well as externally between the steering rack and subframe etc.
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Certifier was ok with me welding the mounts so they are finished now, happy with how they turned out. Now I can get to the bottom of the engine again I'm plotting out where the oil returns are to the sump so I can model them into the new dry sump pan.
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I think it was mentioned previously but the subframe itself is not the issue, its the car floor (RACP = rear axle carrier panel) and surrounds where the subframe mounts to. CMP Automotive have the most comprehensive articles I have seen regarding the issues. Part 2 of their material linked below, to follow on from part 1 linked above. https://cmpautoengineering.com/pages/part-2-it-s-not-just-the-subframe-mounts
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Had to take the pedal box out again along with the brake booster to install the rubber firewall grommet properly for the clutch low / no pressure line. Glad to have that part of the job ticked off !! Got the engine mounts prepared and tacked up which is another milestone kinda job ... will talk with the certifier tomorrow to see if they are happy for me to fully weld them or would rather I get them done by somebody else. Next up I can remove the temporary frame from the subframe and engine so I can complete the required measurements for the new oil pan. Progress !!
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With some tips from another thread I managed to get the clutch hard line installed in the cabin without taking the dash off and the pedals are now in place and looking great. I made up a wire template of the line before straightening it out enough to get it trough the factory conduit.
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Thanks for the video guide @BM WORLD !! Managed to get the line in place last night, had to basically straighten half of the tube out but it sure beats taking the dash out
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Making slow progress lately but managed to replace the driveshaft support bearing and started adding the clutch pedal to the pedal box ready to go back into the car once the clutch hard line is magic'd into place. The new M3 engine and trans mounts arrived also so I can start to fabricate up some mounts. Or I can use the timber mock up, just need some PVA ? The real 50x5 SHS steel should be here soon.
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Thanks @Dogballs ... not sure if you've given me hope or put me off completely hahaha. Will have a gentle poke and prod and go from there
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I'm swapping from auto to manual as part of my project and I have the BMW clutch hard line to install ... of course every video on the all knowing interweb is for left hand drive where its super easy. Has anybody done the line install on a right hand drive and what was required ? From the looks I need to get the carpet back far enough to route the line from one side of the car to the other ... and for that the dash would have to come out. Please tell me there is this one weird old trick which adds inches over night, loses belly fat and gets that line in there without a ball busting detour to dash town !?
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Just been going through this thread, very nice looking car ... hopefully mine can look as tidy when on the road !!
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Very cool project, nice work !!
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Got the engine leveled out setup a reference 'grid' with the laser to take a bunch of measurements needed to model up the new drysump pan. Was hoping to keep it using a wet sump but expert advice determined there is little room to make something bulletproof. Thats about it lately ... will be many hours on the computer next to model the pan and hopefully get to a workable and easily manufactured solution.
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E46 Engine mounts - M3, polyurethane, other ?
Cement posted a topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
I'm about to start making the new mounts for my engine swap project and will be using the BMW mount with a new bracket from there to the engine. I'd like it to not move around too much as clearances are tight in places ... so I'm wondering if people have had any experiences with M3 mounts or polyurethane etc and have a recommendation either way ? Its ultimately a street car so not looking to increase noise and vibration any more than necessary. -
Got the engine / subframe out of the car again so can start fabricating the mounts.
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Got the engine and transmission positioned in the car pretty accurately and have calculated the various driveline angles ... all looks pretty good considering the constraints being worked with. Back into the business end and have almost got the engine mounted to the subframe so I can remove it all together and start working on mounts. Looks like I might be out of gas for the welder unfortunately !!
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The end of the welding on the car body !!! Hooray. The next time the welder comes out it'll be to locate the engine in its final position
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Cleaned and re-packed the CV on the rear section of the drive shaft and got it installed. New centre support bearing is on the way to complete the freshen up there. Got the engine positioned with the stock sump removed to see what we are working with (being able to close the bonnet still that is) for clearance. Its tight on the steering rack ... might be doable in this position with a new windage tray (plus the sump already in design) but I feel like we will need to scrape some mm here and some mm there to get something more workable. In order to fabricate the engine mounts more easily and design the sump properly I will be mounting the engine to the development subframe with a sacrificial welded skeleton. These are the first items (30x5 angle) which will bolt to the engine where the pan came off ... will then weld some larger angle to the subframe bottom and link the two together. Prior to the final welding of the engine to frame it'll be positioned as perfectly as possible.
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I've gone full arts 'n crafts testing out the future sump flange model ... looking good bar a few small tweaks so will be able to start in on the design proper soon. Will still need to accurately measure the dowel locations but can put that on the to-do list for later.
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As per the title I'm looking for a front cross member for an E46. It will be used to fabricate engine mounts on so will be essentially scrapped at the end of the process ... hence does not need to be pretty, but does need to be dimensionally good. Happy to pickup anywhere in Auckland.
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Oil pan removed, onwards we go !! Found a small piece of gasket material in the lower oil pan which looks like it could be from the infamous VQ oil gallery gasket issue ... looks like we'll be taking that detour at some stage !!
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Fuel pump assembly ready to go back in with a Walbro 255lph and dedicated new wiring. Also added in a temp sensor that the Nissan uses which I've connected to the old pump power pins. Its about to get interesting ... engine is up on the stand and oil drained ready to remove the lower oil pan. The approach will be to measure and model the engine where the pan attaches and then install back in the car with trans attached (and subframe reinstalled) but no sump so I can get an idea for the room we have to work with. Then will be able to complete the design of the new wet sump before working on engine mounts and other daunting tasks.
