topless

Just a question..... who the hell goes to a beerfest and drinks tea and coffee????? :puke:

complete with 5L V12 motor too I hope ??? :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

There is a plastic clip at the front that is probably broken. To assemble the trim on the door, you slide the front bit into this clip, click the trim into the next 2 plastic clips and then put the plastic nut on at the opening end of the door. Try taking the nut off, lift the trim away from the door enough to clear the thread from the panelling and slide the trim backwards. It should clear the clip. The most common fault with these clips is one or more of the 4 tags that spread open when you push the centre pin in break off when you remove it to paint and then they dont stay fixed in. Have attached a pic of the door with the first 2 clips visible and the trim above them removed and placed upside down. This is a facelift door so should be like yours.

Hey, I had the same problem trying to get pics up. Nearly drove Gus and Grant scatty... problem was that I was trying to preview the posting with the pic up and it didn't appear so thought I was doing something wrong. Type your post first, then use the file attachment bit at the bottom and give the link to the pic there. (I find a 100k pic is about the right size so it doesn't make you have to scroll across the screen to see the whole thing...) Then hit the add reply button, don't try to use the preview button or the pic disappears. I'm old so have an excuse for stuffing things up like this

Was keeping a close watch on this 325 on TradeMe... M325i While trying to contact the seller, I decided to contact Land Transport NZ and find out what was involved in getting a vehicle re-registered as I hadn't tried to do this before. Spoke to several nice helpful ladies there and eventually was told that the E30 models did not comply with the new frontal impact requirements, and that this would be a requirement for re-vinning, so the car would need to be brought up to this standard before it could be re-registered, despite the fact that it had previously been registered. Obviously this would be an expensive, if not impossible thing to do.... so makes this car only good for parts.. This info seems to be at odds with what I had been told before by other people... ie you wouldn't be able to vin a freshly imported E30 but would be able to re-vin a previously registered E30. Anybody been down this road recently????

Just had a look at the site Bem-on posted... I think those bumpers are bloody marvellous !!! If you go out to the country you won't need to take deck chairs, that front bumper will seat at least 4 !!!!

They were talking sh*t here, it is a simple swap, just change trailing arms and exchange master cylinders. Gus is right, the drum brake master cylinder is different to the disc one. The only E30's I know that have the mounts fitted for the sump guard are the South African ones, but it isn't a difficult job to make mounts to fit it. I think it is a worthwhile addition especially if you have lowered the car. I have 2 motors here out of lowered E30's and both have cracked sumps... :confused:

Hey Udit, Bem-on you guys seen this one on TradeMe? 528i looks good inside, might just have the dash and console bits mine doesn't have.

Can't remember but it wasn't cheap. Also was done back in SA in 1989, not here. (there are many more specialist shops over there to get things balanced skimmed ported etc so cost comparison is difficult). But was probably about the same cost (at that time) as doing a 2.5 M20 transplant including engine, gearbox, diff and front and rear suspension, wiring etc. Engine was the 1990cc 4cyl out of the 518 (very cheap to buy, cost us R50 at the time) and had the K-Jetronic injection system on it. Not an injection system you would want to try to tune as it is a load of cr*p. Anyway, we had a set of webers lying around which we were dying to find a home for. The finished motor also looked great with the set of polished carbs hanging off the side... AND sounds bloody mean when you bang your foot down and 4 great big butterflies open up and bellow for air through K&N filters... :bowdown: The exhaust was the most expensive part of the whole exercise....

:thumb: just txt or call me when you get closer so I can come home...

Hey, cool. I did check with Udit this morning that he definitely wanted it, no pull-outs and he has confirmed it. However Rod, if anything goes sour..... On a different note, hear they have lots of cliffs down Welly way.....

Rod, vehicle is still here although a couple of fellas from the Welly region are making noises about wanting it. It is towable, I brought it here on an A-frame and all I did was to remove the motor and wiring loom, fuel pump. So let's see what Udit says in the next few days.... you are next in line

as I said, first come first served... otherwise we will be looking for a handy cliff :rambo:

You are welcome to it. First come first served... Doesnt have recaros tho' not even electric windows, but trim is complete.

Hey Gus, if I find a cliff... you drive while I push ??

Absolutely agree with this, it is gutless unless you rev the sh1t out of it... Did my mate's 318 over some years ago. He wanted to stick with the 2l-4cyl because of the weight advantage over the M20 engine, but wanted heaps more grunt. We balanced the bottom end of the motor, skimmed and reprofiled the combustion chambers in the head to up the compression , flowed and ported it with bigger intake valves. chucked the fuel injection off and added 2x45 sidedraught twinchoke webers on a decent manifold, added a really wild cam, had a decent flowed exhaust manifold and exhaust made up, lowered it on 16" alpinas. It went like a bloody scalded cat, ate my standard facelift 325 E30 bauer cabriolet for breakfast.... also really handled extremely well because of the lesser weight up front too... Won't talk about the fuel consumption at full tilt tho'... :beer:

Best bit is the fire extinguisher!!!! don't want to mess that shine up... luv the wheels :thumb:

this is the Hauraki plains.... anything over a meter high we call a mountain !!!

another pic...

Bought this for the engine, auto gearbox was blown..... Is mostly complete, some small trim bits missing, body is good, couple of small spots of rust, paintwork is ok but roof is badly scuffed. Probably will polish out. Rego is on hold. 1986 model. Want it gone, free to anybody who wants to collect, but will not strip it. I towed on an A frame from auckland no problem. If nobody wants it it is off to the tip. Brent, you want it to add to your collection????

no sign of pics on the car fair website.... where? $$$$$????

right, basics for doing the job. I have just started to adjust this crossmember.. check out photo below. probably several different ways of doing this job but this is the way I do it for a fixed(non-adjustable) camber adjustment. red arrow... leave this hole as-is. do not drill or cut. green arrow... slot this hole downwards yellow/orange arrows... slot these holes upwards It is important to know how much camber you need/want to get rid of. I have adjusted my ragtop back to factory spec of approx -1deg negative. This meant I had to lift the hole of the orange arrow (closest to diff) by 21mm. You will need to calculate this from measuring your existing camber and working out from the positions of the mounts the amount of slotting needed at each point. Also very important to slot the holes vertically so you will need a jig to hold the crossmember vertical as if it was mounted in the car. this will tend to keep the tracking true but you need to check this before welding the whole thing up. This jig needs to also be able to mount the crossmember at the height it would be if it was on the car. (This allows you to set the suspension arms at the ride height they will be at with wheels on). I use two spare suspension arms that have been stripped of all brakes, bearings etc to keep the alignment of the 4 holes true. Makes life easier as they are much lighter to work with. Also have plates on that allow me to check the camber angle and the tracking of the whole assembly. I make 6 plates out of flatbar with the same dia hole as standard and use a slightly thicker gauge than is standard on the crossmember. I then assemble both arms onto the crossmember putting plates on each slotted hole position and set the innermost slotted holes (orange arrow) to the calculated height by clamping the plate to the remaining bit of the mounting (leave the green and yellow plates loose at this time). Make sure the swingarms are set to the correct ride height at the wheel side then carefully check camber angle and track. If all ok then tack the orange plates to the crossmember. Now you can set the green and yellow plates up and mark their outline onto the existing mounting points so that you can cut the existing bit out and fit the plate in to the gap and weld it into place. By doing this you can retain the standard bolts, otherwise, if you just weld the plates directly onto the existing mounting points, you will need longer bolts. (reading this back to myself now, it sounds complicated so I think I might need to make some plates up and take some more pics to show exactly what i am trying to say... but this will take time so bear with me if you can't picture what I am trying to do...). Once these green and yellow plates have been welded in, you can then grind free the orange plate and do the same with it, mark it out on the existing mount, cut the mount and weld the plate into the gap. This should finish the job... just a bit of grinding to pretty it up and a coat of paint. As for the adjustable mounts, that is a whole different ball-game. Not for the inexperienced as it needs some bits machined etc... but is not really very difficult at all if you have access to a lathe.

Got them from a bloke in Auckland second hand. Have no idea where he got them from or what make they are. They were originally painted silver but he had them polished. i havn't seen another set like them around. Tyres are 205/40/17. Had been trying to get my hands on a set of 17" Alpinas but wasn't having much luck at the time as the american dealer was out of stock. They look really cool too... I was trying to buy the wheels off this ragtop in USA but that also went belly-up.

Dont have any pics of the one I did but am busy with another so will show pics of this tonite.. this one is a fixed mod which means it is for a specific camber adjustment. It is a simple job but needs a lot of care measuring to get the angles right and keep it tracking true. I can also do an adjustable one but it is a lot more work. Will try to describe how to do it when I have more time as off to work now to support my BMW habit....

looks like this now... ride is suprisingly smooth for what has been done.