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For all you who want smoked tailights... seems there is a new way to do it.. stockings !!! (read the description...) smoked

You mean these...???

Gus, this is what I took out of Ryan's old facelift. I don't think it is what you are looking for but just making sure...

Do it just about everytime I overtake somebody on the single lane highways.... need a longer diff

Rust would be the biggie. Go through it very carefully especially if it is an ex UK import. Full service history would be a real bonus...

Have spent hours reading all the sh*t on this site... not finished yet... :drunk: drink till you drop..

Just measured (with vernier) the ones I have. 325 cab is 12.3, M325 is 14.6.

This is what I'm leaning towards. Painting the headliner will be easy as I will gut the car, including headliner when I respray it. The only thing 318 will be the shell as all the bolt off body bits are in good condition. this is what worries me, so will have to be up front about what has been done. leave my monster truck beemer alone.... actually, those are 14" cross spokes on it, if i put the 15" cross spokes on it, it looks normal. It definitely has motorsport springs in it, they are much shorter than stock..

Did you get the control switches with them too? I have a full set of electric leather recaros out of an E28 M5 and have the complete wiring loom and switches too. If they are the same switches I could easily do a wiring loom diagram for you. Do you have a pic?

Hey, cheers for that, they look really cool. Will order myself a set... :thumb:

Just want to get the feelings out there, after the way some folk waded into Busted regarding his M325i and the authenticity of it. I recently bought a GENUINE M325i (ex pommieland car so is on their register there) but the floorboards, sills and a few other places were rusted beyond what I considered repairable, so I wrecked it and took all the bits off it. I intend to put all the bits, and I mean everything, into a 2door 318 I have. I was going to gut the 318 to a bare metal shell, respray the diamantschwartz the original M325i was and transfer the entire wiring, mecanicals, trim etc into the 318 body. The only difference at the end of the day would be that it wouldn't have a sunroof and black headlining. Would it be a waste of time on my part? I probably won't keep it so would want to advertise it as a built up M325i and would want reasonable money for it, seeing that the respray would cost $2000-$3000 alone, apart from what I paid for the wreck. Or should i just sell off the bits? Like the full MTECH kit, LSD etc..?? This is the car I wrecked....

Where do you order those plates from?

Yup, borders with SA. And, believe me, those women are all virgins (and not Muslim). They are closely examined to ensure their virginity is intact before being allowed to take part in that ceremony...what a job !!!! :drugs:

Hope you have better luck than me, I got zip reponse from them in my attempts to get these numbers and had to rely on old friends... I used to use the ATE aftermarket rotors in all my cars over there and they are good quality, much cheaper than originals. If you have problems with getting BMW to supply, I could try my mates to see if Ferobrake would send over here..???

Sorry its taken so long but here goes.... these are part numbers from BMW SA for the rotors and brake pads for the 325iS. Have been unable to determine if these numbers are common with other BMW models. Front Disc's OE part no. - 34112226813 (BMW) +-R800 each +VAT (vented) Rear disc's OE part no. - 34212225507 (BMW) +-R500 each +VAT (solid) Front Disc Pads OE part no. - 34111161717 (BMW)... (I don't believe the price given so I won't list it...) Rear Disc pads OE part no. - 34211157334 (BMW) (no price given) These are aftermarket parts and are considerably cheaper but will only be available ex SA... " Disc Pads" ..aftermarket... Ferobrake part no. FDB415+- R265.00+VAT Alternate front part no. due to caliper change at the same time. Front Disc pads - FDB256 +-R320.00 + vat Rear Disc pads - FDB296 +- R240.00 + vat ATE Pirate Disc's... aftermarket... Front +-R325.00 each + vat Rear +- R365.00 each + vat The prices he got are in Rands and the exchange rate currently is approx R4.50/NZ$1.00. We got these for comparison with NZ prices so you can see if you are been ripped off??? VAT in SA I think is about 12.5% currently... cheers William edit... in SA rotors are referred to as discs...

So you also a wrinkly grey haired old hoon like me? :bounce:

Here is a snapshot off Alpine Developments web page showing the intercooled 325iS with 300kW and the non-intercooled with 200kW.

South African 325is models all had the 2.7 motor, not sure what the compression was, and the non-dogleg box. The evo 1 325is had some aluminium panels, evo 2 went back to steel. Had all the standard bits that the M models have like LSD, Recaros etc. There were a large number of 2.7 intercooled turbos around as well, but that was aftermarket, largely done by a place called Alpine Developments. Standard turbos had a 300kw rating from Alpine but most went much bigger with +400kw and many had nitrous as well.

don't mind bringing my car up for a good cause...

I hate these bloody cockys that tie up goats alongside the road because they are too bone lazy to mow the grass themselves.. :finger:

I can just visualise a huge smokin double black striped donut..... yum!!!

A larger master cylinder will require more pressure on the pedal for the same braking effort but the pedal travel will be less than with a smaller master cylinder. This extra pressure can be overcome by fitting a larger vacuum cylinder. I personally would only put on a bigger master cylinder if I was upgrading the brake caliper size too... You can take up the slack in the brake linkages by undoing the locknuts at either end of the bar that runs across the firewall of the car on the inside and lengthening it by "unscrewing" the bar anticlockwise(from brake pedal side). ... this is what I would do on top of removing any slack in the linkages.

Was just an idea as you didn't want to drill the sump... however, from a previous post I somehow got the wrong impression that the oil temp/press was a single sender. What does the oil temp sender look like? Would have a better idea what you could do with it if I knew what it looked like. Hooking the oil press sender up where the factory sender is using a T-piece will be a very simple job. As Andrew says, don't put it in the oil cooler line... the fitting/s you will need is off-the-shelf stuff and the bloke at the brass-fit shop should be able to put it together for you if you bring in your factory oil press switch so he knows what thread it has in the block.

Off topic.... Scott, (Palazzo) in which area do you stay? I am coming up tomorrow to visit my brother in Howick.

I have contacted my mate in SA to confirm this. We didn't have the E30 M3 in SA but were told at the time of the launch of the 325iS that it used the M3 rotors/brakes. My mate used to own one, (which was turboed- was a bloody awsome car to drive..) so he is probably the best person I know to confirm it. I will let you know as soon as he gets back to me. Probably be cheaper to import them from SA than from Germany, or even from USA...