topless

Don't you just love the sight and sound of freshly born air pollution !!!! :thumb:

No spark= most obvious is no voltage at the coil. Check for 12v. Also remove the HT lead from the coil at the distributor and check that spark is getting out of the coil to the distributor. Possible you have damaged the distributor cap or rotor during the transplant and losing the spark in the distributor to ground. The next to check is the motronic unit needs to get a crankshaft position signal from the sensor. If it doesn't get this it won't start. I take it you have a single sensor on the crankshaft pulley at the front of the motor? (I'm not sure of the difference here between Motronic 1.3 and 1.1). If so it needs to have a resistance of 540ohms +/- 40ohms across the terminals. Also check that it is properly seated in its clip. It needs to be close to the teeth on the pulley to get the pulses from the teeth, approx 1mm gap from the face to the pulley. If you have 2 sensors on the bellhousing, and removed them during the transplant, possibly have put them back in the wrong position. The reference sensor should have a grey plug where it connects to the loom and should go in the hole marked B on the bellhousing. Good luck...

Gus, it is not difficult. Mike(323e30 on this forum) has recently done it and is closer to you than i am. Get hold of him. I am coming to Akl maybe this weekend so if you are not successful getting hold of him give me a yell.

Have done this mix 'n match quite a few times. Maybe have been lucky and not had a vibration problem with any. Have always made sure that the universal joints retain the same alignment over the whole prop as it is easy to slightly misalign them due to the fine spline of the centre sliding joint. (Don't know how to better describe it though..can always drop in and show you what I mean if I am up in Akl). My experience is that vibration is more often a result of the universals being shot, especially the rear one.. or the rubber "doughnut" falling to bits :bounce: Unfortunately most E30 props do not have servicable UJ's.

Was an M5, bought as a wreck after a high speed crash, etimated at over 200kmh. Bought a 520 runner and gutted it and used the body for the M5 gear. Had to buy quite a few items like some of the Mtec kit and suspension bits etc to get it back to original. Bloody missile to drive tho'. With the LS diff and all that grunt, could drift that thing at will. Earned me the nickname zigzag.... Left in SA when we came to NZ. Sorely missed...

Different motor tho'...

.Cannot agree more... E28 is my next favourite car to the E30, but has to have the M-Tec kit.. yours is great! :thumb: some photos of one I built up some time ago, tell me the E28 is not good looking with this kit!!!!!. (excuse the photos, they are digital photos of photos, my scanner is broke...)

Look at the spotless white overalls..... somebody else must have been doing all the work !!!

Another 2 big plusses here are the full service history (as long as it is with decent garages) and NZ new... also only 4 owners, probably a dealer or 2 in there... 250000kms is nothing for these motors if they are serviced regularly. This one certainly looks as though it has been well loved..

Nice and clean. :thumb: Generally agree with this but there are a few 17's that look good, including Alpinas. I tried to buy these (pic of black ragtop) 17's off a guy in the USA (rims only) but getting them here proved a problem. Good luck with finding a set, I would give plenty for a set of them...

Tried to convince Ryan to stick with BM... especially E30, but make sure he doesn't get landed with a dog like this one again. Best thing to do was to wreck it. Major structural rust from a rear and front accident/s and looks like a mad axe murderer got to the wiring loom at some time :rambo: Completely stripped now. Giant mecchano set. Will work out what is worth using and bin the rest. Watch this space for bits...

Looking good Mike. Last time I saw it it was a shell with a dead engine.... :thumb:

That is a bumpstop rubber and nice to have if you make a habit of bottoming the car out but not necessary. Cut it off and chuck it... won't affect your warrant. Mine were also shot and have removed them and got a warrant since.

The sender for the oil pressure light on M20 engines is down the bottom of the block on the driver's side near the front. Get a brass or steel T fitting (hydraulic suppliers normally carry these) to screw in here and put both senders into it. Don't recommend throwing out the warning light sender. The gauge needs its own dedicated sender and you can't tap into any existing wires to make it work.

These BBS wheels don't look bad with black centres.... wheels car not so hot tho'

Bypass the lock switch, maybe the contacts are stuffed. Had this problem with a previous car and this fixed it.

Black centres and polished lip??? That would be my way... The BBS centres for the standard rims that I have don't look like they will fit your wheels. Your caps look like they are held on by a single cap screw?? I had a set of OZ wheels a while ago that had a cap like this. Good luck with the hunting for the 4th... and the cap...

Well, I was quoted over $200 for the throwout bearing from Repco about 3 weeks ago.... madness!! :bounce:

TSW have a factory in South Africa, not sure of where else they are actually made. Where is your car from? Might give you an idea where the wheels came from.

Can't remember if these motors are affected if the dipstick is not pushed in and sealing..??? Certainly the M20 engines do what you are describing if the dipstick is leaking air as they run a negative crankcase pressure... this old trick also works a treat... sometimes if the leak is small, you will need to use a gas analyser in the exhaust to detect it sucking in the ether.

Right, finally figured how to get pic on... the right is the BBS wheel, the left is unknown make, but the BBS cap fits both. Maybe this helps??

Yea, LTSA says HOWEVER, local Mr Plod is unsure, so is one of WOF stations. Neither the exhaust nor the fuel tank is a structural part but this seems to be confusing to some. I don't want to hole the tank so will keep the 100mm clearance to that. Really looks like you could get away with it with one Mr Plod and get pink stickered with another, depending on how they read it... This is what I have ended up with, looks better than the last...???

Right, got it figured.... eventually :mosh:

Busy seeing how low I can get a 2door E30 legally. Where do they measure to? Does the exhaust count? If it does, this is pic of what it looks like, but not as low as I would like. This leaves about 130mm under the chassis rails because the exhaust hangs under. I have now ignored the exhaust and used the chassis rails and fuel tank as measuring points, leaving 105mm clearance. This looks MUCH better. :thumb: Which will be legal?

Get this response to trying to insert a .jpeg pic from my computer using the IMG button. Wrong pic format? or wrong button?