topless

sounds like you need to find yourself a woman to play with, Sam!!

Dry sumping guarantees an oil supply to the engine. Even with good baffling, in extreme cases, the oil pickup can suck air for a brief moment, and in a high revving motor this will spell death, eventually if not immediately. Oil splashing around in a sump and onto the crank will also suck a small amount of energy from the motor... not what any power hungry racer wants! With dry sumping you also normally run more oil so it is not working as hard because of increased volume, and the system generally keeps the oil cooler by routing the oil through coolers and through long lines to (normally) the rear of the car. Also, by placing the oil reservoir in the rear of the car, and scavenging oil out of the motor, you are also removing weight from the front of the car and placing it at the rear, which all helps achieve what most racecars strive for.. a 50-50 weight distribution over the axles.. All good reasons... :thumb: Will PS... that is one mean MF motor !!!!! :bowdown: :bowdown:

Yea, nice idea, but crappy V8.. you probably would get more power with a standard straight 6 3.5.. and better consumption.. with all the effort and money needed to do this conversion, why not put in a decent 8-pack?? 350 chevvy's are dirt cheap to hotrod, you can get large HP out of them for small money

I was taught wheel alignment many years ago by one of the best back in SA, wonder if the grumpy old git is still alive... (hello Jack if you are still around... :bowdown: ) Even back then it was pretty obvious that the vast majority of people with alignment machines were totally incompetent.. they could follow the computerised steps but had no concept of what they were trying to achieve. Much like there are very few real mechanics or panelbeaters around anymore, most are simply spare parts fitters, unable to diagnose or fix anything other than bolt on bits and hope for the best... One of the fundamental rules in wheel alignment is to check that the left and right turn is the same, so if you get your car back and the steering wheel is crooked, you can put your money on the fact that, when you get in the car and test the turning full lock left and right , that one will be greater than the other, and that the plonker that did the job hadn't a clue what he was doing... any competent aligner will check this AND correct the steering wheel if it still happens to be off centre. Modern cars with airbags in the steering wheel show up useless aligners.. (this because airbag steering wheels are so tricky to remove and replace). I would bet that the idiot that did Jassbass' car picked on the road wheel that was out of alignment and used it as the correct wheel and adjusted the correct wheel to suit the wheel that was out of alignment and this resulted in the steering wheel being off-centre. Guaranteed he did no check afterwards to see if the full-lock turnings were equal. Unfortunately there is no way to tell how competent the person is, probably best to use someone who specialises in wheel alignment only or someone who comes recommended by people who are deeply involved in motorsport and rely on proper alignment to achieve results in races... (My opinion anyway..) :confused: Will

Is it for a M40 motor? I don't have the part number but the bearing was the same that fits the M20 and M10 and some other older motors. They didn't have a listing for the M40 but took a chance on what seemed to be common to most motors before it and it fitted. Cost about $4.00.

PM Andy...E30stz

buy a heater box from a car that doesn't have aircon. They are much smaller and easy to install.To remove the old box, remove the 4 nuts from the studs that protrude into the vent area under the windscreen. Get to them by removing the cover that hides and seals off the fan for the heater. Remove the coolant pipes going to the heater and pop the rubber seal inwards. Get under the dash and remove the 2 aircon pipes from their connection to the heater box. Pull off the 3 drain pipes attached to the heater box, one near the gear lever and the other 2 on each side. Remove the rubber mount attaching the heater box to the floor near the gear lever. Once all these are removed etc, grab the bottom of the heater box inside the car and yank it hard inwards. It normally resists coming loose so carry on till it frees itself. Having someone pushing the fan housing down from inside the engine bay helps here. The 4 studs tend to hook up sometimes as well so these need to come free before the box will come out inside. The heater pipes can also hook up on the firewall so the other body in the engine bay can also keep an eye on these and push them if necessary. The main bit is it tends to stick up on the carpet. If you replace it with a non-aircon model, this box stays well clear of the tunnel so is easy to remove and replace. Both models you can replace the small radiator inside the box without removing it, just a bit of a fiddly job. edit.. Graeme McCormack lives near you in Papakura, he usually has lots of useful E30 bits, he may have something, give him a yell.. remind me never to let you near my cars... :drugs:

can't figure why you had to cut it as the consoles are the same, all you need to do is remove the metal brackets that mount the auto gear selector cover and the manual gear selector boot should just squeeze in..

Graham, we need to organise a roadblock or something north of Orewa... I like my sleep... or we can get out the possum guns...

just remember this is for a LHD car so bits might be on opposite side to where described.. doing a dash swap tomorrow coincidentally..

except maybe those fellas launching that old VW bus.... bus

Yup... check your upper shock mounts in the boot. Might as well check the lower ones while you are about it... Didn't think burnouts in a 318 were possible..???

Hey Udit My M5 recaros (non memory) just need a power supply/earth to the looms and a suitable place to mount the controls for the seats.. (normally in the centre comsole). Should be easy to install these type in your E28. Just make sure you get the looms and the seat control buttons with the seats. Not sure what is involved in the memory type seats though, if thats what you are after.. probably lots of wiring, computer boxes etc... Will

If you get the arms complete then it is a relatively simple bolt-in job.... except that you will need to remove the rubber hose going to the fuel tank so that the bolt next to it can be removed. So you will need to run the car to relatively empty so fuel doesn't pour out when you remove it. Best to do one side at a time so you are jacking the car up on one side only. This will help by keeping the low fuel on the passenger side of the tank and definitely no spill then... The brake lines on the arms will just bolt straight into the flex hoses from the body. Removing the whole subframe is a bigger job as you need to remove the propshaft to get the subframe out and that is a really sh*tty little job on its own IMO.. Why do you want to move the master cylinder into the car for a street vehicle? Ok if you want to track it regularly but hardly worth the effort for a street vehicle.

Poor unsuspecting public.... Gus at large !!

Give Darren (SRBMW on the forum) a PM, think he had an m40 a while ago that he wrecked. Can't remember if it was manual or not but he has so much e30 stuff you never know.. Also Andy (E30stz) just had his M40 manual written off and he is wrecking bits from it, don't know if he would sell the gearbox etc from it though..

Pics might be useful... is it dereg or on hold?? ...what $$$ you after??

mine are polished and I just use Mothers to keep them shiny, no wax or anything else. Tried wax when I first got them but seemed to need more work to clean then so removed it and just use the mothers metal polish now. Brake dust is not a problem as I clean them often.

if you are talking about the one for the window, it is normally not glued in and relies on its width and pressure from the glass to hold it in place, but they do sometimes move and then just use cotact adhesive or a bit of silicone adhesive to stick it in. The one around the outside of the door frame fits in under a lip around the outside, no glue..

Not sure Sam, I have a few 2door glasses but can't get to them at the moment as they are well buried in the container. When I get them out I will check and let you know and we can swap if I find one. Not having a garage sucks... :banghead:

all 3 obc's I have are set on 30, not ch30 or 60. should still work if they are in miles..? put it in anyway and replace the obc module if it doesn't, then wiring will be the same. yea, know about the rear seat difference but have never worried about it as I never carry passengers normally. just winding 'ol Sam up anyway..

Sam is just being Sam as usual, he wants it so the bullsh*t starts flowing.... BTW, have you fixed my car yet Sam???

Last is the 2 plugs on the end of the external loom. One is for the external temp sensor and the other for the hooter which is part of the OBC immobiliser, so is not really necessary if you don't intend to use the immobiliser... it is a pretty useless immobiliser so I wouldn't bother with it. Sorry about taking so long with the pics but had to find the bits, my camera, the lead to download to my computer etc.... my life at the moment consists of digging through cardboard boxes... Any uncertainties just ask...... Will

this is the bit that goes through the firewall. Punch out one of the pre-marked bits on the large rubber grommet that the main loom comes through and pull it through. The plug shown here I think goes to another hooter (if my memory serves me correctly) but was unconnected on the car I took this from, so is not really necessary IMO...

next one is the 2 plugs that go into the big white plug that sits behind the cubby hole up high just next to where the main loom comes through the firewall. These plugs will ONLY fit into one spot in the big plug, so don't worry about which one they fit into... if they go in they will be right. And the brown wire goes to the common earth point which is in this area behind the cubby.