topless

I'm senile, can't remember who I used to be...

should be ok, just keep an ear out for it getting worse.

rust is a biggie on these Nath. They are also getting quite long in the tooth so check bits like suspension for wear. They are cruisers, handle like a block of flats on wheels if you push them hard, but cumfy on a trip and have a good amount of grunt.

could be a bearing but also could be one of the cooling vanes is bent a bit and is hitting the alternator at a specific point. I would remove the belt from the alternator and spin it by hand and feel for the knock. If it is catching something, you will get the hookup point, then bend the offending vane clear. If it is a bearing, you should be able to feel it in the pulley. Replacing the bearing is not too difficult but you will need a puller.

so why didn't you?? got too much sex on the brain???

driver needs a complete overhaul too!!!!

cool... got the sand/dust/mud out of it yet??

I modded the standard jack to fit under my vert. Cut the lifting point down and welded it up. Easy mod. weeehaaaa... my old profile works again on the new forum.

sounds like your wife got the better deal!! Trade that lump in for an M5/M6 and live..!!! Will

I use Gedore, Metrinch, Stahlwille and some Snap-On. Gedore doesn't seem to be readily available in NZ, but is excellent quality with a replacement guarantee over the counter. Metrinch is excellent stuff, (with lifetime guarantee), one spanner does both metric and imperial and will remove bolts that have been almost completely rounded. Wish they had been available years ago when I first started my mechanical urge... Stahlwille and Snap-On are expensive but are a lifetime investment. I discovered years ago that cheap is in fact expensive, they are bound to let you down on a Sunday evening when nothing is open and you need to get the car repaired to go somewhere first thing Monday...

take it off, no reason to leave it on. Will

beers... ladies... is a duck's bum watertight?

Just a point here, the owner's handbook says you should not disconnect the jumper cables without first putting on the headlights and the rear window demister (if I remember correctly). It states damage may occur to the electronics if this is not done. But I agree with Graeme, your SI batteries are probably shot, so need replacing. Will

Another Honda owner sees the light... Welcome, nice choice.. manual/auto? Will

Why don't you just buy a std 325, then you will have everything you need like rear discs, right diff ratio, big struts, rollbars etc and shove all your good stuff into it? There are quite a few around at the moment for not so much. Or better still, buy a genuine M325.......

for your bicycle???

check that your timing belt isn't a tooth out and check for air leaks into the manifold eg cracks in large intake rubber behind air flow meter etc and check air flow meter operating properly, swap with another if possible, but really could be all sorts of other things too. Start with the timing belt though.. if it is losing teeth or loose and jumping teeth you could end up with a terminally ill engine! Will

What model is yours? Where is the dizzy? If it is on the front of the motor at the top off the camshaft, the pulley down the bottom only drives the oil pump so timing it is irrelevant. If your is on the passenger side down low on the block, the timing mark is on the top of the dizzy - you have to remove the cap to see it - you line up the rotor arm through the centre of it. You must make sure no1 cylinder is on the firing and not the exhaust stroke, ie both rockers should be loose. remove the oil filler cap and make sure the cam lobes are pointing downwards. If they are not, DO NOT rotate just the cam, you MUST put the cambelt on and rotate the motor 180 or you will bend valves !!!!!! If you are not sure, pm me and I will give you my ph no and I will talk you through it. Will

A 325 m20 motor is not that expensive, you will definitely get one for under $900 in good condition. Darren (SRBMW) is worth contacting for one as he always seems to have bits hanging around at a reasonable price, (not a ripoff artist). But any of the bolt-on bits like K&N, exhaust etc that you do for the 320 will give you some small improvement and will fit the 325 m20 motor when you do the transplant. You would likely do these minor mods to the 325 anyway so you won't be wasting your money on something you can't use later... Even a bog standard twin exhaust system off a 325 will be better than the factory single 320 system. Headers will cost a bit but definitely will improve even a 320 somewhat because the cast iron manifold is so inefficient. (and will bolt directly to the 325 motor). But definitely the best bang for buck (and an easy job) will be a 325 m20 transplant. You will be suprised at the difference in go between the 2.0 and 2.5 motors. (you will prob have to a diff swap to get a better ratio though, most 2.0 run around a 4.1 ratio which is a bit short for a 325 unless you want huge pulloff power..) Your choice... Will

panel K&N filter, new plugs don't hurt, check plug leads are within spec, extractors, and either a standard twin exhaust system from 325 with freeflow mufflers fitted or a single well-built system. For the exhaust, take note of the meeting proposed by Andrew at a performance exhaust shop... strongly suggest you see these fellas for PROPER information... remember the new noise laws about to come into effect!! Will

you fellas not interested in this one?

The fan nut is 32mm. Use some sort of goo on the gasket whether it is grease, gasket sealer or silicone, but only LIGHTLY cover both surfaces. The thermostat should have the temp stamped on it which is when it should open. They don't just open quickly, takes probably 30 secs even with boiling water. I normally do the thermostat and the camshaft oil seal when doing a cambelt. The thermostat is cheap, normally repco have it, but get a new Oring even if you put the old one back. The cam oil seal is a place which the m20 motors always seem to spring a leak after a while, so this is the right time to do it, it is also cheap, but make sure you seat it properly when installing and wipe the inside sealing surface with a smear of grease before pushing it over the cam. When installing the cambelt, tension it by turning the engine in the direction it normally turns (clockwise facing it) by the crank bolt and keep a GENTLE clockwise pressure on the crank nut while nipping up the tensioner. Then turn the motor over several times and check the timing marks each time to make sure you have it right... these motors are EASY to get one tooth out so it pays to check and double-check.. Gus has obviously done the one-tooth thing before , as I have too, so he also warns you to do multiple cranks.. get yourself the e30m20 bible here., absolutely a must-have for any e30 owner!! Will

seems like you need some granny driving training from 'ol Jazzbass...

Euro-italian do mail order service, so phone and order the bits. I have had excellent service from them, if you leave a message, they WLL return your call! I havn't used them in my short time living up in the far north but bravomikewhisky lives not far fom me here in Waipapa and I am sure he had his bits mailed to him... I used them when I was in the Waikato. Will

I personally wouldn't use one with the plastic impeller. Don't forget the antifreeze..