topless

With Andy on this one. getting the gearbox out by itself is a b*tch of a job, especially trying to remove the higher up bellhousing bolts, but putting it back in and trying to get it back past the firewall and lining it up is a real sob job!!! You will find that you will probably have to lower the crossmember/motor to get clearance from the firewall to remove/ replace the box so just take the whole lot out and save the heartache. (imo.... )

Comeon Sam, we alll know you are a closet geek that loves driving a Geep...

H 21 B Dave.... :beer: :beer:

Gus Could be costly if the system hasn't worked in a while. Definitely replace the dryer bottle for any regas if the system is empty and you will have to find the leak that caused it to empty. If it has been empty for a while, it is likely that the hose ends will have rusted internally and that will cause blockages if you just gas up. So no easy answer... check through the system first. If you are converting from R12 gas to the newer R134a gas you will have to replace the black 'O' ring seals on all the joints with green ones that can withstand the new gas. Your evaporator may also have to be changed as the older R12 ones mostly have a different flow pattern to the R134a ones and don't always work well. R134a gas works at a higher pressure than R12 so you need to check hoses for condition to prevent possible blowups.. some places will tell you that you need to replace all flex hoses but that is bullsh*t.. The R134a is also a "finer" gas so will leak through smaller holes than the R12, so leak detection is essential when changing gases. There are "drop in" gases which replace the R12 and are cfc free so conversion to R134a is not essential. The lens you speak of is on top of the dryer bottle but is only for the older systems, the newer ones don't have it. Generally, with the a/c running, you should initially see bubbles in the glass and then they should clear. If they don't go away, the system needs topping up, but that should only be done with proper equipment to monitor the charge pressure so you don't overcharge the system. Will

My red thing is also brown free...

you are such a darling..!!

go wash your mouth out!!! btw Sam, you are not taking very good care of my car I hear.. :confused:

Head unit has one at the rear. Think it is currently being used by the stacker rca cables. Stacker also uses bus type connector. Ipod mini sounds like it will do the job.

After travelling along an increasingly bumpy SH2 the other day and have my normally well behaved 10stacker start farting and spluttering, I decided that this Ipod thing that you all talk about from time to time on the site may be a good solution. Skipping music, especially Floyd, messes with my brain !!! HOWEVER, I am completely ignorant of what Ipod to use as there seems to be quite a few models out there. I don't want it to do anything else other than play music through my system so video etc is unnecessary. Also don't have a huge amount of music I want to store so an idea on memory size would be good. I would also need to know what the best way to couple it up was. I am aware that I will possibly have to change my head unit, but it has an rca input, so maybe not??? The head unit (Sony) is coupled to an Alpine amp and infinity speakers and tweeters but havn't got round to fitting a sub yet.. Any of you bright young fellas out there got some advice for this old git??

abc...

Unfortunately it is most likely something to do with gearbox as a driveshaft/diff whine would increase with speed but wouldn't suddenly change pitch with gearchange. The fact that it isn't there when you are stationary and rev it probably eliminates anything to do with the torque converter. Go and see a gearbox place or the stealer and get them to check it before you blow it up!!! bummer!! :finger: just a thought, I have a severe whining noise that comes from my passenger seat and definitely increases with speed and revs !!!

Andy Done a few in my time, the important bit is I used a special plastic primer before applying the top coats. But that was a while ago (+-6yrs) so not sure if the modern paints eliminate the need for this primer. Go and ask a specialist paint shop... Will

Have 2 here, you can have one.. just have to get it to you.

hey Gus, real men don't need brakes... :finger:

does it have an engine? gearbox? seats? wtf? :confused:

so clean!!!! must've been Andrew...

man, i think the noises from the gearbox are twice as loud as the engine noise... wonder what sort of speed he is doing down that long straight just before the end? bloody marvellous!!!

could someone grab them and post them here... pleeeeze... :bowdown:

talking about this, how far away is it Andrew? Have any final specs for the cars been released?

unless you are really attached to the car, sell it and get a 325. the list of things to get to convert an auto 318 to a 325, and do a proper job, is VERY long...

I fitted an aftermarket fiberglass MTech2 kit to a pre-f/l about 6 years ago. Involved a lot of poprivets. Also making small brackets to mount the door panels. Need a small mod to the rear skirt to fit the different rear end of the pre-f/l. Not difficult, just time consuming and fiddly as aftermarket kits never fit quite right and need work to correct these faults. Some fibreglass kits aftermarket kits are pure sh*t and are more work than they are worth, generally you get what you pay for!! So be careful. You will only find secondhand MTech1 kits now. And they are not easy to find. Happy hunting....

$1200 for labour to replace that little radiator inside the aircon unit???? Must be top notch gold-plated labour.. never mind the $700 for the part!!! two words... RIP OFF !!! :finger:

replace the cylinder rubbers in both the master and slave clutch cylinders..

Yes, there should be something like 2 'U' shaped clamps around the tops of each pipe and bolting through your existing bottom bit, just like a single exhaust clamp. If you dont clamp it to the pipe it is going to continue rattling and driving you nuts... I'm sure you can buy 2 exhaust clamps and use the U bits to make it work, or go to you exhaust shop and get them to do something. pic of standard exhaust clamp I'm thinking about..

sounds like the top bit is missing, you only have the lower bit that is cradling the exhaust??? Is it this one? This is missing 3 bolts that pull it together though.