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you and Gus have the same disease... never happy with what you have... must be a strong feminine side to both your genes... btw, I have a real soft spot for a nice e21 :thumb:

Currently living in Paeroa, so will have to travel to get anything done. Courier service is a wonderful invention for us living in the wopwops.. Will give them a yell..

I have acquired a set of 16" ali mags for one of my e30's but one mag has a rather serious radial crack in the outer lip, about 8" long. Can anybody recommend a GOOD ali repairer/welder?

One question, why is the M10 motor excluded from the series? It is a far more robust motor than the M40 and there are certainly more M10 E30's around than M40's, and it would certainly be cheaper to purchase a pre f/l 318 with M10 motor than a f/l E30 with M40 motor. I had planned to build two 318 M10 engined pre f/l cars for the series , and had purchased the vehicles, but have now scrapped the idea because this model is not allowed. Will

yup..

Hey Darren, you don't happen to have a 325 cyl head or complete 325 motor lying around? or know of a head somewhere? Scott (Palazzo) needs one...

You can make it fit but you will have to change the rad mounts and do a complete rad hose swap as the routing of the pre f/l is very different to the f/l. Not worth the hassle I think.

I have just pulled a 4.27 open medium-case diff out of a pre-f/l 318 (1987 vintage)and put a 3.64 lsd into it. Must admit, I have not come across this ratio before.

Important question... is your fuel pump in the fuel tank or under the car on the rear passenger side? Also, can you confirm that you have put the complete pre-motronic 325 loom in your f/l 320? If so, what colour wires are you trying to join? (give both sets from the main loom and the plug under the rear seat). Carl, I would use your 320 loom from your existing 320 motor and change over all the motronic 1.3 sensors from the 2.0l motor to the 2.5 motor. You will need to either get your ECU remapped or buy a 2.5 one as i am sure the 2.0 one will not fuel/time the 2.5 properly (but I may be wrong as I have not ever tried the 2.0 ECU on a 2.5 and had it dynoed to check what it does). And the motronic 1 and 1.3 ecu's are definitely not interchangeable btw..

Sam, I'm broke at the mo.. bought a new house a long way from here and am in the throws of trying to pack up my vast array of cars and bits and move them over a vast distance... pass the hat around for Sam??? Only if you think the plate fits!! Any guys out there vote for SXYSAM??? (Comeon, get out of the closet... :bounce: )

One for our very own Spargo..???? plate

also don't try to preview your post or they will just disappear. Attach the file and hit the "add reply" button.

Not sure what you really need but here's trying.. Pic of rear bit, it is 220mm high at about where the bumper mounting bracket is at the rear and about 290mm high on the side where it joins to the rear wheel well. Difficult to measure exactly though, due to the shape of the thing. Will edit spelling before I get locked...

The discs have a minimum thickness you should machine to. Any decent place will know this and will not skim beyond this minimum. Generally, if the lip is big, you will find that removing it will make the disc under-spec. Also, if you are replacing discs and pads, replace all the brake fluid so you will know you have done a 100%job. Brake fluid should be replaced annually in an ideal world, though most of us overlook this.. and then curse when we have to replace whole cylinders as a result.. or crash because the fluid boiled when you needed the brakes to really work.

Turn the radio up till I get up there and I will help you diagnose it... (1 May) Will

Check the disc rotor for wear (having ridges and a vertical face) and run-out (being wobbly). If there is any sort of ridge on the outer/inner edge of the disc rotor you should machine it. Likewise, if there is any run-out you should machine it. Machining is generally not expensive. A freshly machined rotor also helps the new pad bed in quicker. I would recommend that it be done with each pad change, even if all that you need to do is lightly hone the surface to aid the new pads bedding in.

The only possible way to make a honda hot is to set fire to it... but then you are faced with the problem of getting :puke: to burn..... ????? (*sic, you leave yourself wide open.. couldn't resist it!!!

Hohohoho... never seen one fly before! mate had one with the sticker "don't laugh, your daughter may be inside!!". :bounce: only thing good about it was the fitted double bed...!!!

Does your car have aircon? If so, was it on at the time? I came across a car one time doing this and some work had been done to it and a wire that goes to the ECU that tells it that the A/C was on, and increases idle to compensate, had been left unplugged. Reconnected it and all ok. Otherwise check for air leak via the dipstick or oil filler cap. They must be air-tight. If they leak air, your car will be inclined to stall. The motor runs a negative crankcase pressure so air leaking in via these areas will affect idle speed. Also test you idle control valve, it may be sticky. Air leaks into the induction system can be traced by carefully using a product like quickstart and spraying it selectively into an area where a leak is suspected. If the revs increase briefly after a squirt, there is a leak.

I had a heavy duty mustang T5 gearbox in one of my cars that used to do this from time to time. I just overfilled the box with good heavy oil and added one of these fancy additives that supposedly clings to metal. The noise occasionally returned after that, but only after I had given the vehicle a severe beating, normally on a hillclimb or similar but went away for normal human-like driving. As the other fella says, the box is an absolute dog to repair if you don't have all the special pullers presses etc. I would rather look for another one in good condition as the spares are likely to be more costly than a good second-hand box.

my, your influence is far reaching !!!! :bowdown:

You need to remove the large nut inside the hub. The nut is secured by a special lockwasher which you need to remove first to get the nut loose, or you will not get the socket onto the nut. Leave the wheel on and on the ground when removing the nut as the handbrake will not hold the hub securely enough by itself to allow you to crack the nut loose.

The "experts" advised me that 6x9's are inefficient so I have also gone the way Chris describes. I have started with 6 1/2" mids with separate tweeters and crossovers in the front driven by an amp and have still to install the sub/amp in the boot. But still sounds great without the sub as it is now. If it sounds good, stick with it !!!

I agree it is most likely an input shaft problem. I take it that you remembered to fit a pilot bearing into the crank?

maybe the nut behind the wheel is loose..???