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big green plug into the OBC display...

next is the single long wire which plugs into the special indicator stalk that comes with having the OBC. It allows you to page through the OBC functions by pushing the stalk inwards. Not necessary to fit but nice to have...

first pic is pretty obvious, yellow plug goes in behind the instrument cluster, 2 green plugs into the control unit which is part of inbuilt immobiliser, and last plug into the chime unit which will sound off if the outside temp is low enough for there to be ice on the road etc...

it also might be one or more of the pressure plate diaphram springs is weakening and this can send a shudder or pulse through the pedal when the clutch is depressed. sounds more like the release bearing though. just monitor it. if the release bearing siezes/collapses it will stuff the pressure plate and then you will be in for a total clutch replacement, so I would remove the gearbox if it gets worse and replace both the bearings while it was open and check the clutch and replace if necessary. the clutch in the m3 should give you a large mileage if you don't abuse it on a regular basis so a bearing replacement might be all you need. Will

OBC is easy, yellow plug in behind main instrument cluster, some other plugs into connector box behind cubby etc. I will try to unearth my spare OBC's from the container and post pics of what plugs go where.. Will

M6 is really rare, probably worth it to the right buyer. Pity it is auto though..

Is there oil in the gearbox? <--- silly but you never know!! Also silly.... did you replace the 3 bolts that secure the torque converter to the flex plate?? Apart from that I go with the linkage having fallen off.. If all else fails, go have a :beer: Will

Measure the distance from the mounting face for the starter on the bellhousing to the ringear and then the distance on the starter from the mounting face to the extended point of the gear. That will tell you if the 2 should engage. But I am not aware of starters with different throws.. All my stuff is still in the container and with no garage at present, no hope of getting some starters out for some time to check, so you'r on your own for now... maybe take a starter to an autosparky and get them to check the solenoid and throw... Will

Is the solenoid throwing the gear completely foward to the front of the starter housing?

With the fuel smell present, it sounds like you may have sticky injector/s. Get a bottle of injector cleaner and put it in the tank and see if there is any improvement. I have a f/l 320 at the moment that battles to start but runs reasonably ok once it has. I have diagnosed it down to the fuel pump but havn't put a new one in yet. Get your fuel pressures checked...

Depends on how bad it is Gus. I would try to remove by cutting etc as much of the rust away and then making up a plate and glueing it in place with a silicon multipurpose glue as a temporary measure till I got round to doing a proper repair. Make sure the surfaces are free of grease, dust loose rust etc or the silicone will not bond properly. Will

The e30's are inclined to rust around the big rubber grommet where the main wiring loom from the fusebox comes into the car. Drop the cubby open and get in behind the cubby and check there for rust. Water will come in there in buckets if there is a hole there. Also check that this rubber grommet is properly seated and that it is not torn etc. I have found that if you park some e30's with their nose facing downhill, water will gather in the boot channel and leak into the boot past the rubber seal and run directly into the rear of the car without getting the boot wet. Simply parking the car with the nose higher than the boot solved this problem.. Graham's bit about the water getting in through the fan due to a blockage of the drain hole is another I have had too. Will

Firstly clean both the battery terminals and the terminal clamps inside with a proper terminal brush. You can normally buy these from repco or supacheap etc. Or use a light grit waterpaper. Smear a small amount of petroleum grease on each terminal before reassembly to help prevent corrosion reforming. Remove the earth lead from where it bolts to the body and clean both surfaces and replace using a little of the same grease on both surfaces. Check the earth strap to the engine from the body, (this is normally near the bottom of the motor near the front and connects to the chassis rail), remove the bolts holding it on both sides and wire brush both the lead contact and the body or engine contact points and replace again using a little grease. The other earth points on the wiring loom are scattered around the car and not easy to get to without removing various bits, so try these points first. There is an electronic copy of the Bentley manual floating around somewhere so download that and find out the positions of the earth points if the above does not help. I have a copy if you can't find it, but can't remember where I got it... old age!!!

With the tappet noises you have and the unwillingness to rev I would have a peek at the timing belt and just make sure that you havn't lost a tooth or 2.. Does the engine rev freely when you are in neutral? The auto boxes in these cars are full of sh*t, have replaced the one in wifeys car with a manual after hers disintegrated. Maybe yours could do with a filter and oil change before it dies??

As you say, keep hot air off it, so build a system around it that draws cool air from the front. Easier is probably to keep the standard airbox and replace the factory filter with a flat panel K&N filter and draw the air from the front as per standard.... imo pods are more hassle than they are worth..

Bauer has the same interior as the standard e30's, the full convertible rear seat is much narrower. I fitted a leather interior from an e28 into my bauer some time back. Was a squash for the rear seat but fitted with a bit of force, have to mod the front seat mounts slightly to fit, so you can go this route if you are desperate... With the rust that is appearing in this one I would be VERY careful inspecting it before I bought it. Particularly check firewall, floor pan and sills, those are major work...things like doors, bootlid, fenders are easily replaced. 320 motors are gutless gas guzzlers, if you buy it put either a M10 318 motor or a 325 motor in it. 318 has far better fuel consumption and almost the same power as the 320 but is lighter so handling up front is better overall...

Passenger fender and bonnet for me... :thumb: Ben may be talking about the bit under the bumper though..??

way too much for an old 318 (auto even worse) imo... You could get a decent 325 for that money!!

one of the best chick magnets I've seen in quite a while !!! :bounce:

If the green light is coming on when you select the fogs, (this suggests the switch is working), I would then put my money on either the relay being faulty or the power supply to pin 87 of the relay being faulty. This could be the fuse is blown or not making good contact too. Also check your earth point at the front of the car just behind the passenger headlight is making a proper connection and that the bulb is actually getting an earth inside the light itself. Check this by disconnecting the fog at the connector and then applying 12v and earth to the plug and see if it lights up.

Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha.....

I am up north at the moment, will try to post this weekend when I can get to my cars to cross-check things

and please install it with the little arrows pointing towards the flanges... or it will not last long.

Will wait for the pics Andy. My wife's fender has a ding which has been badly repaired, wanting a good fender in zinnober to replace it. Bonnet has a small ding on the left front too, same accident I presume. Will

Andy, pencil me in for the passenger front fender and probably the bonnet. Will