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Life begins at 40... enjoy Forget the walking stick, it is more fun to run the bast*ds over with your mobility scooter !!!

I bet it could beat Emma on her MTB.. although you never know with a woman behind the handlebars...

probably be cheaper to buy a GOOD secondhand box from someone who would guarantee it is in good order... try this guy...Ray or Brent on this forum..

et of 73 is definitely fwd... don't waste your time with them, your spacers would have to be pretty thick and would not be cheap to buy. The e30 has a standard et of 25-30mm, some wheels with a slightly bigger et may fit depending on the wheel but 73 is huge..

58.8.. have to study harder...

Result doesn't suprise me, you don't bring a knife to a gunfight..... just further proves the old adage.. "there is NO substitute for cubic capacity!" besides that, V8's sound MUCH better!!!

Man, that looks good Grant! I know how badly these black Bm's can oxidise, had to do my brother's one recently but only got the boot and roof done before I gave up and left the rest to him.. I can see that Andrew's Bimmersport "car cleaning slut" title is in serious jeopardy... :mosh:

If the car is auto, there could be a cooler for the trans oil inside one of the tanks of the radiator. Some cars run a separate trans oil cooler outside of the radiator, but normally only high performance cars. Apart from this, the radiator only cools the engine. Aircon has a completely separate sealed system.

Flywheel 120Nm = FT

no, you can do it without a pit. I don't have one and have done at least 6 in the last 3 months... The way I do it is to first undo the propshaft, exhaust, gearleaver, engine loom from computer box, accel cable etc so the engine/gearbox assembly is free to come out. Then undo the engine mounts from the crossmember, loosten off the steering flex joint, jack the car up and get the front wheels off the ground, remove the wheels, undo the calipers from the front struts and tie up out of the way. Put stands under the chassis rails. Use the engine hoist to support the motor and drop the crossmember and front suspension out under the car. Lower the engine/gearbox onto the floor. Use the engine hoist to lift up the front of the car high enough so the engine can be dragged out from under the car. Don't worry, the body without the engine and front suspension is light, if there are a few of you, you can actually just lift it up at the front and walk it back over the engine/gearbox too... Putting it back is the reverse, first lift the engine/gearbox up into the car and then replace the crossmember and front suspension. I have a chain block and large trolley jack I use to do the same thing, but using an engine hoist is much easier as it is a movable item, my chain block is fixed in position so I have to shift things around... must get Father Christmas to bring me one sometime... have fun.. Will

drop the whole lot out under the car, way easier than trying to haul it out the top. Also, undoing the gearbox from the engine is a b*tch of a job while the whole lot is in the car so is better to take the whole unit out in one go.. my opinion anyway... pm me if you want details, Contear.

It is a fiddly job rather than a difficult one because of all the bits that are in the way of getting it off. It is possible the manifold is warped. Check it with a straight edge when you get it off. If it is warped it is probably cheaper to buy a secondhand one then get it machined. Also, check the studs around where it is blowing, one may be pulling free of the head allowing the gasket to loosten. When replacing the gasket, put a thin layer of a good gasket compound on both sides. (I hate silicon, I use a Loctite product..) The only tricky bit in removing /replacing the manifold is to depress the oil return tube that joins the manifold to the sump and keeping it depressedwhie you remove or replace the manifold... use a waterpump pliers and twist it downward. It will mostly stay down but some will not. It has to be held down to get the manifold free. If it is one that does not stay put, when you have the manifold off, slightly deform the bit that goes into the block so it is a tighter fit. Also replace the o-ring at the top. After replacing the manifold, make sure this tube is properly seated into the manifold. Twist it upwards with the waterpump pliers and check that the o-ring has seated itself properly. You also have to remove the thermostat housing with the manifold unless you can manage to remove the temp sender units with it in place, a difficult job! Check the hoses out, replace if brittle/cracked and don't forget to do the fuel lines!!! While you have the manifold off, check that the throttle position switch is in adjustment, the Bently E30 manual has a good description of how to do this. Hope this helps you.

what motor does your 525 have?

I take it you are ok?? Hopefully..??

The hydraulics are normally silent but if the flexible hose is collapsing inside, you could get a squeak as fluid is forced past the restriction. However, this would also generally result in a sluggish release of the clutch. The noise would only be present while you were depressing the clutch and would stop when the clutch was fully depressed.

Agree with this, but possibly also the pilot bearing is shot. Replace this bearing as a matter of course anyway, it costs less than $10 from a bearing shop. try telling this to that s1k bemma plonker...

can't see your fluffy dice....??

sounds like they didn't put the 'star' shaped bit back in that spins between the pickup sensor and sends a signal back to the instrument cluster. Auto and manual diffs are the same inside, just different ratios... there are different size diff casings on the e30, one has 6 bolts holding the rear cover on and the other has 8 bolts. pic shows 'star' thingey..

you will need the dash switch, there are 2 types, one for just front fogs and one for front/rear fogs. Also you will need a relay which has double contact points, i.e. both an 87 and an 87b contact. Photo shows both dash switches, double on left and single on right with rear view of both. The relay pic shows the pin config needed. Refer to pic of fuse box. Relay to go in position K8 (circled), and you will need two 7.5A fuses and put them in positions 29 and 30 as circled. Of course you will need the foglamps too...

yea, if you find the wiring is there come back and will give you all the details how to make them work.

speedo plug on diff arrowed. the backlights are on a different circuit. however, the board inside the instrument cluster could be damaged if the batteries on it have leaked and this could cause all sorts of things not to work.

I would be having a VERY careful look for rust around the firewall area.... water around the centre console will be getting in from the blower fan area. This could be a blocked water drain vent or could be rust around the fan mounting. Remove the blower cover in the engine bay and check for rust around the blower mounting. If it is rusted inside here it is difficult to fix and i would have second thoughts on purchasing the car... pic shows blower cover removed and the drain vent is circled in yellow

see pic of standard rear bumper mounting for pre-f/l..

Wiring is normally there to add front fogs. Check under dash on loom to light switch for a rectangular plug. If it is there you will find the foglight plugs in the engine bay behind the headlights on both sides. Pic shows foglight switch plug under dash and light plug (arrowed) in engine bay.

Rust is the biggie on e30's... check for rust under battery in engine compartment, also rust on firewall behind cubby where wiring loom goes through firewall. If carpets are damp check for rust under the door sills where the floorpan is welded to the sills. If the car has a sunroof, check around the sunroof for rust, this can be very tricky to fix. Most other rust spots are easy to fix. The diff would blow if you put 2 different diameter tyres on it and ran around with it. When you drive it, feel for vibrations from the drivetrain, could mean the propshaft is shot. It is difficult to find decent manual propshafts and I don't know of anyone here who does universal joint replacements for them. Did he replace the instrument cluster for a 320 one when he did the swap? good luck with your purchase.... let us know how it goes. Post pics...