topless

The figures I quoted are straight out of the Hayes manual that covers all E21 and E30 models between 1977 and 1985 of the 320 carb, 320i and 323i variety, being sized as the 1990cc and 2316cc 6-cylinder motors I just dumped the whole lot in there for reference for anyone who might give a damn. BTW, the 240 is listed in this manual as being a 4-speed only...??? the rest are 5-speed, so the plot thickens..

My manual for the 320/323 lists the following gearboxes/capacities: 240 box 1 litre 242 box 1 litre 246 box 1.5 litre 246 sport 1.5 litre ZF S 5-16 1 litre

Just make sure you order the right one... there are ones for ABS and ones without ABS...

The way I would attempt to dagnose this is, when it dies, first check for spark at both the plugs and also from the coil. Spark can be lost via a faulty rotor/distributor cap. (I am assuming that the motor is not one with separate coils on each spark plug here). This is the easiest check to do first that doesn't need any special equipment. If there is spark, next check for fuel delivery. remove the incoming fuel line from the injector bar and put it clear of the engine area into a bottle or similar and plug the nipple from the injector bar. Take really special care here that fuel can't spray over the motor. Briefly crank over the motor and watch for fuel being pumped into the container. If there is fuel and spark, the next thing you will need to do is check fuel pressure but you will need a pressure gauge for this. If the pressure is ok, then check for injector signal. The easiest method here is to use a long screwdriver and put one end on the top of an injector and the other press to your ear. Get someone to swing the motor over and listen for a regular distinctive click. If this click is missing, it means the injectors are not getting their firing signal. If there is no injector click, you will then need to check that the crank sensor is functioning. You will need a multimeter for this. It will depend on what motor you have as to where it is positioned. If all this is ok, check the wiring carefully on the engine harness, paying particular attention to the earthing points. BMWs are notorious for having electrical faults if the earthing points (of which there are many) are faulty. These earth points can go high resistance when a certain temperature is reached as can other junction points etc. Once you have possibly eliminated all of these, the final call for me would be the ECU. Try to find someone with the same car, check that the ECU numbers are the same, and swap ECU's. If none of this works, we will arrange a photo session of us pushing it over a cliff.... I do have a full Bently manual for the 525 E34 so can assist further if you don't succeed.. Keep us informed. Will

It might not be to anybody's taste (except *sic, but that is to be expected... after all he loves honda... ) but I think those guys deserve real applause for what was a remarkable fabricating job!!!! Just shows how easy? it could be to turn your e30 into an m3..

This piece of sh*t lives about 4 houses from me!!! He drives like the car looks... and goes.. :puke:

took me nearly a year to figure it out..... but I'm old so have an excuse, what's yours...???? :drugs: btw, coming thru friday morning early, heading up north, will ph you :bounce:

Does it just stop or does it start misfiring and then stop?

The odometer is electronic, gets its signal from the diff, so removing power from it via the fuse would stop it functioning.

Welcome Martinholmesuk Helper... so where's your e30??? Much more fun than a Volvo, eh?? I see a sumpguard, must be an ex South African car?? Useful things, those. (Graham needs one under his fuel, tank..!! ) Also see some nice lower control arm bushes. Looks like leather Recaros inside?? Nice... :thumb:

Gees, first Grant winding us up for english spelling, now Emma starting on German!!! Txt nxt???

Want some pics..... NOW!!!! Welcome to the site

Hey Chris, that's not naked.... this is !! Anyway, I think polished lip with black centres would really look good. :thumb: btw, this was going to be an e30 series race car but with the regs as they stand, I have discarded that option and now it is getting the full lightening treatment, ie NO etra bits like trim, carpet, sound deadening, M2.5 motor (for now, 2.7, (possibly turboed), in the build), box and LSD, non power assisted steering etc. Going to see how light and quick I can make this sucker... full pics later corrected spelling...woops!!!

check upper and lower shock mounts, bolt/nut may be loose or rubber bush may be damaged. Not the exhaust banging against anything?

Andrew, decided to move this from the other thread as this one is more appropriate. The proposed rules in the DIXI quote the ECU for the 320 as 14 14 1748 259. I have 6 ecu's from early non-motronic and later motronic 320's (all Bosch) but none of them match this number. They also state that ecu's may be exchanged randomly. Does anyone have one of these ecu's and exactly which model did it come out of?

pissed without eyebrows

and if I am reading the rules correctly, nor can you race a m20 pre-motronic either..?? Can't see the reasoning behind not being able to race the M10, I had started preparing one and had spares etc but now I am no longer interested as both my supposed race cars don't comply engine-wise... :thumbsdown:

Chains are also noiser than belts and have a much greater inertial mass which is far more difficult to control and keep correctly tensioned... :bounce:

Rear... difficult to get to as it is just above the starter motor. I don't take the motor out of the top of the car, undo the crossmember etc and drop it out of the bottom. I find it much easier and you dont have to worry about possibly damaging your upper bodywork when swinging the motor/gearbox clear of the car, but that is only my opinion....

Front... although sometimes it has been removed which is NOT a good idea as the cam cover is spaced away from the upper pulley with it.

Were still on his car when I left SA...

Is it a one-piece or does the top double bar bolt onto the two turret mounting bits? I am certainly keen...

make happy fella

Mate of mine had a 535 mill in his e30 and was always taking it out to do things to the motor/car/suspension/whatever. He didnt have a viscous fan and used to take the radiator out first and then drop the whole lot (engine+gearbox) out under the car. (I think it would've come out without removing the radiator but he didnt want to risk damaging it?) He also took the inlet manifold off but that was because he had 3 sidedraft 45's on the motor and they got in the way when trying to drop it out under the car.

I'm not sure but have been told that the M20 motors out of the early e34's (520, 525) have different mounting points on the block to the e30. Apart from that I have not found any difference in e30 blocks (out of e30's) for bolt on bits. I often have changed a pre-motronic motor into a motronic one and all the bolt on bits interchange, including sensors. Even the old 525e block is identical to the e30 block externally. Obviously there are different bores for the different motor sizes.. The second group of 2 numbers on the engine number will indicate the size of the motor (if my memory serves me correctly).