Palazzo

Saw it last night, must have been just after that getting off NWestern at Western Springs. First One series I've liked the look of.

Following up on the other 4 problems and feeling good after fitting my recently acquired M Contours with new tyres, I found this morning that I have an oil leak from (I think) the rear drivers side of the engine (328i), which is dripping onto the exhaust. Any ideas? Hard fix? Easy?

So it's the easy one? Can do it when I bring it down? Prob Tues arvo. Cheers.

It's a '96. I'm sure the door handle will break if I keep yanking on it. Have you got a good one Brent?

Obviously this is my week for things BMW to go wrong (E36 coolant leak, E30 rear lights failed, gear shift in E30 difficult) and now this. When I try and open the drivers door, the handle is very stiff and occasionally won't open at all. I've watched the window and it doesn't seem to drop as it normally does when you pull the handle. I'm assuming this is the microswitch (?) in the door not working properly? Any ideas on where, how hard and how much to fix?

Anyone? As it does it when it's off and feels like it's sticking rather than a mechanical problem, do I assume selector rod/bushings something similar? Where to take it close to central Akld?

Driving, 2,3, and occasionally 4 are snicky for want of a better description, easy part way into gear, then sticky. Right now, with engine off, 1,2,4,5 easy, 3 same problem as described above.

Yip, good call, 3rd can't be selected right now with engine off.

Pretty sure this us the car I've seen at Titirangi GC? Lovely looking car.

Clutch pedal is heavy, but always has been, possibly heavier than normal. Slave and master have been replaced in last 5 yrs. It feels like a shift mechanism problem, rather than clutch or synchro, but who knows?

Over the last few days, the gear change on the E30 (manual) has got very notchy. It's particularly bad in 2,3,4, 1& 5 are fine. It gies half way in to gear and is very stiff to get in the rest of the way. If you're very slow, it's not too bad. Gearbox fluid is fine (recently checked) and clutch is not too old. Any ideas?

A furniture store in Mt Eden was broken into on Sunday morning, obviously the thieves had scoped the place out earlier, as they ran in and took the 4 flat panel televisions only, then left. They were fakes. Good luck selling those fellas.

Nice looking car, it's been parked outside my work quite a bit in the last 2-3 weeks.

I should probably let this go, but then you'll just continue to believe that you're correct. I can find no reference to a personal attack in my earlier post. The first post was a tongue in cheek poke at your well publicised hate of Hankook tyres due to their perceived failings on your new vehicle. As usual, you were sarcastic and condescending in your reply. The fact is that unless your name is Michael Schumacher, Chris Amon or the departed great, Ayrton Senna, your opinions on tyres are nothing more than that, opinions. They give you no right to be arrogant or rude to anyone. The great pity of it is that some of your advice on suspension set up etc is well thought out and well received, including by me. Cheers.

Thanks for highlighting your complete inability to believe anyone but yourself. The Hankook received a superior wet rating and placed higher overall. Comfort and noise are aspects of a tyres performance, whether or not you rate them as such. Your subjective ratings obviously don't include wet performance and resistance to aquaplaning. Your desire to jump down the throat of anyone who questions you or pokes some fun at you is baffling.

Especially for 3pedals. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2011-...r-Tyre-Test.htm

A yellow one sold at Turners repo/classic auction a couple of years ago for just over $100k.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-377950952.htm Lowest kms?

I have been told in the past that LTSA/NZTA or whatever will only accept a vehicle rebuilt with "new" airbags regardless of the condition of the used ones. No doubt someone will want to correct me.

20 spokes = genuine iirc. Welcome.

This happened on mine, a pin or something had come out of the drivers door lock and was lying in the bottom of the door, reattached and it worked again.

180kms, I've had rear shock mounts fail on one of the E30s, this time there's no discernible difference in handling, which there certainly was with the E30. I was wondering about sway bar bushes/links, or any of the above. Just wondering which is more likely to make a clunk?

E36, manual, has developed a single, solid sounding clunk/knock when turning. As the car turns and weight transfers, there is a distinct clunk from the rear suspension area, just one, like something is sliding back and forwards. Happens turning both ways, and yes, I've checked the boot. Also, if you turn right, it won't happen again turning right until you turn left, ie like something has slid into place (or out of it I guess). Any educated guesses?

The only accurate way to measure this is to keep a log book for say a 4 week period, running each plate (or lack thereof). Keep a log book for each km driven and also whether at night or daytime. Then divide the number of kms driven by the number of fines received. You will then have an accurate picture of what will gather the most fines and also whether time of day is a deciding factor. Look forward to the results.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-362544599.htm This belongs to a friend of mine. Performance is nothing short of stunning and it goes around corners and brakes very well for a big car.