mops

so even when using those m30 bits (not engine mounts ?) there's still some fabrication required of engine mounts ?

yes, i do realize that. it is even possibly to swap cranks from m20 to m50 and vice versa with minimal mods. but i never considered m50 swap because of the need of fabricating custom engine mounts, i have no idea how come i missed that part of crucial information... and which gearbox will bolt into m50 ? gertag 260/265 ? i'd have to have a look myself on one before attmepting such swap myself....

basically all these chip fo is invcerase timing. and that does produce more power (i'm not talking 50 hp more, but every degree is worth few hp's). however that requires you to use higher octane gas. and out 98 is really 97.5, and that is RON rating, which = about 90 octane MON rating = pretty poor. dont get me wrong, you can incerase timing few degrees across the board and it will be ok, but too much will just cause exxesive detenation and eventual faliure of the engine. I think stage 1 turbo setup is much better option than to muck around with bolton n/a upgrades on m20.

alot of resources on that conversion can be found on www.r3vlimited.net keep us updated. i didnt know that e28 535 engine mounts can be used for e30 m50 conversion. that is such a discovery for me... it makes the conversion so much easier... because in that case m50 engine is pretty much a bolt on, right ? can somebody confirm 100% seen it done ?

so have you been there ? any good ? I'll need full 3" exhaust fabricated for my turbo conversion. i'll need it all from turbo back. including muffler(s). AND the downpipe will be kinda tricky to fit around steering rack....

oh, come one, it's not that expensive to fit turbo on a e30... depending what exacly you want, but i could put tohether stage 1 system for 2k. (7psi max). and much less if you can get manifold/exhaust done cheaply, instead of normal, street prices. I'm doing stage 2 system for 3k, but alot of work is done by myself... it's not that hard, just time consuming and you need tools to do it... but it's really a great experience....

Re strokin/boring m20 engine... stock bore = 84mm stock 325 crank = 75mm stroke m20b27/m21b24 crank = 81mm stroke now, it is possibly to fit m50/m50/s50/s52 crank into m20, with small modification (requires access to lathe to make a sleave on the front of the crank) so now you are going to m52b25 crank = 84mmstroke m50b28 i *think* is 86mm and e36 m3 crank is over 89.6mm stroke, but that will require more modifications to block/crank as counterwieghts are just too large - but it has been done, and proper engine rebuild shop will have tools to perform mods so basicaly you got mix and match, with custom pistons you can over bore to 85 or 86 mm stroke, to thooretical max displacment m20 is 89mm stroke x 86mm bore = 3101cc... relatively easy is m50b25 crank + 84mm pistons to give you proper 2.8 stroker. labour/machining of internal engine components gets very expensive very fast, as things need to be heat threated and stuff.... i'm not sure about m50 exacly, but i believe it has different pistons and longer crank, i think rods are the same, because these engines normally run 130mm rods. some run 135mm rods... bottom line for that extra little kick, stage1 turbo setup would be more cost effective.

damnit ! so close ! hahahah

got the email notification... thanks....

Hello. Question for one of the mods around here... I have been using this forum for an while and i'm experiencing issues with email notification. PM's are not notified by email, nor are the subscribed thread reponses, all tho those settings are enabled in my CP... similar issue with PM's. Some PM's (usually longer ones) never get to intended recipients, all thought I have sent them.... I'm just wondering whether everything is working fine for everybody else but me ? maybe my settings are stuffed ? or possibly these are common problems with those forums ?

bentley e30 manual. it's like hayness (series) manual, but SO MUCH BETTER !!! it has very detailed procedures and pics and schematics and wiring diagrams. Just got my own recently... this thing has even gearbox rebuild guide with pics !!!! P.S. i'm trying to find out whether m21 diesel HG will go in instead of m20 petrol HG... surly diesel one must be higher rated...

yeach, or just get the fuel rail our, and on the end of it, weld up a fitting (it will need to be tig welded), and then there's a dude on TM selling cheap pressure gauges of various ranges, that's what i would do

it's not that hard at all... but a flat piece of ground would help definitely...

heya, thats right, just to confirm... you do need a p f/l gearbox with sensors in the bellhousing... if you swap the front crank damper to the one with timing wheel then you will need to swap out whole loom and ecu.

are these reclinable ? any special pricing for bimmersport members ?

which part of the linkage is it ? i dont remember it, and i did my custom short shipt not too long ago. if you keen pop in to see how it feels

yep, gus could do it lol. I could do some garage jobs aswell first thing to make sure is to go under and check that there's no rust in hard-to-fix places, such as where the suspension elemanet, engine mounts, etcx are attached to the frame. last e28 i have seen had major rust where swaybar attaches to the frame. welding frame is ok, but wof inspectors odnt liek it and they always ask for receipts of pro work and stuff... prepare yourself for expenses. if the job is done by the pros $1000's will clock up very fast... having said that, I got a siutable turbo setup for m30b35 that i would like to see go on e28 535 , that can be done for reasonably cheap

Hey guys. I'm preparing for an m20 stroker turbo build myself. just picked up 2.7 from pick-a-part last weekend. I got 325i, so the head is there. re m20b25 pistons, you are right early ones were 9.7:1 (i got these) and later ones are 8,8:1. here is all the info http://www.bmwccn.no/rogaland/Mahle_m20.html but, i have heard the following things (cannot confirm) e blocks are 0.5mm taller than i blocks. e rod (and m20b20 rod, and m5x seriess 23, 25, 28, s5x) are 130mm i rod is 135mm so i was thinking, e, block, e rods, e crank, i piston should result in about 8.3:1 compression which is great for the turbo. some squisch (otherwise called squench) area will somewhat suffer, but still I'm using pistons matched to the head combustion chambet, which is good (i suppose better than e piston). aswell i head that there are two types or i head 7xx (dunno exacly what number) casting and 885 casting. 7xx casting has a smaller combustion chamber (aparently). Hey gus, if you are buying bearings/rings, let me know I want a set of these aswell, maybe we can get it cheaper on a "m20 rebuild group buy" aswell i'm looking for somebody experienced in engine rebuilds to look over my shoulder while i rebuild my first engine. i can provide beverage of your choice/food of your choice/petrol money to cover expenses of getting here anyone keen PM me

what engine is it ? what does bentley manual says ? remember bmw uses different cylinders on same engines.. like m20b25 sported 2 different types of pistons m20b27 3 different types, and these are interchangable (even with m50 pistons...) if all else fails, 15 thou is bloody not much... worst thing is that you will have some exrea compression. just make sure (by turning engine over once head is on carefully with a hand) that pistons have *some clearance* with valves... remember rods streth at high rpm's up to 0.5mm (probably not that much in that engine), but as long as you got clearance, you will have no problems...

depending on the compressor... you got several options.... 1. rebuild - normally just piston rings, but if your is one of those chinese stuff ten parts might be difficult to get hold of 2. get another compressor unit - not the whoel thing, but the actual air pump. you might get a very decent one on TM for a hundy or two. making it fit might require some fabricarion, but worth it 3. look on TM for eg. compressor with burned out motor - these go cheap and you can cannibalize parts of it

can these e21 lsd's be adapted to e30 ? i'm still looking fro an e30 one. ideally 3.46 or 3.3 or something similar, but not 3.64 (too short for my liking)

i'll take the radiator overflow bottle. pm me your addy and email.

sorry for slow reply, but bimmersport.co.nz email notification doesnt work for me.... prices across US online places are similar. this was i think through 'arizona auto haus'. stock headgaskets are about US$25.... there at the stealer are around NZ$300..... go figure...

another thing you can try (lat resort) is to try some gear oil stabilizer. I think i'll do it to my box... i used this stuff for 1000's k's in my subaru (weak gearboxes) and it improved things noitcably. the one I had in my subaru was 'lucas' brand.. white tube - manual gearbox tranny treatment @ supercheap. I'd advise overfilling a bit with normal oil after applying that - that stuff makes oil climb gears, so there's more oil on the top secontion, therefore less in the bottom section and you would like to keep the bottom secion oil at the same level... thermostat is a quick swap. rebuild gearbox... well.. assuming i'd took it out of my car, disassembled it it myself, what parts would i need to replace ? synchro(s), bearings, anything else ? estimate $$$ for parts in NZ ? [edit to fox numerous spelling mistakes]

yep, i arree.. all tho you can buuild m20 and get 600whp out of it, but reliability will be questionable... m50/s50 engine will deliver much more reliability at that HP putput.... still bottom eng will be poor.... oh well...