mops

damn i cant believe i missed that....

is rear part of center console still available ?

i would be interested in big brake kit ? and possibly wheels (what's the condition of the tires ? ) ? pm me, i can get you nice set of bottlecaps on near new to go with the car

pic ? i also have a spare e36 steering rack

if you would consider selling wheels separately, give me a PM. i could give you set of mint bottlecaps with good rubber + cash of course

I'm keen, but what $$$ are you looking for ?

get bigger wrench ! more leverage ! make sure you wont break anything

great is has been sorted out. After i build m20 turbo stroker, i had issues with cooling systems aswell. So i had to reverse-engineer the system to fix it. Because of the space constraints i had to convert from pre-face lift to post-face lift system. First of all. -There's pre-facelift cooling system (with expansion tank on the drivers side). This is better one IMHO. Because expansion tank (i.e. reservoir) is right at the pump intake. This is crucial, because this arrangment will not allow water pump to run out of coolant and cavitate (i.e. stop coolant flow) -Post facelift system (expansion tank on the passenger side) is IMHO bad design. expansion tank is plumbed between tstat housing and heater core, which is *OK* but not ideal (like pre-facelift) interesting note. when i was troubleshooting cooling system at one point i had both expansion tanks installed I *think* the main issue in m20 cooling system is the hose that feeds waterpump. This is because of the fact that it goes very high, up abouve dizzy then comes back down. that's ideal place for the airblock to form. But this is nothing. the main issue is... because this hose is pretty much the highest point in the system... if the coolant level is low it is possible that there's not enough to fill this hose. As a result water pump has no coolant to pump and coolant flow is reduced or stopped. Often if it noticeable on low rpm's, when water pump is spinning slowly... IMHO a good way of fixing it is it to put a bleed point right there, on the top, by eg taking a piece of 35mm steel pipe and welding a nut/bolt to it to act as a bleed point... I fixed it by other mods to coolant hoses, which are probably too involved to be applied to every m20. Check my build thread for further details...

1.8 is as good as 2.0, but you need to get the modern 16 valve m42 engine, not the m10. m10 is good for abuse with a turbo. m20b25 has some nice poke in a light chasis m20b27 is getting really fun to drive. you can cruise in low speed zone at 1300rpm making it very fuel efficient. m20b27 turbo... this is teh shizzle my nizzle so i went to get some new tires today. i managed to find 205/60/14's, looking very good, thinking, oh yea, that will hold the power... 2nd gear, step on it (outside tire shop) and i see two smoking black strips in rear view mirror.... if that doesnt work then i'll have to go wider and stickier rubber, but i suspect nothing will hold 14 psi raging turbo m20 stroker...

thanks man, appreciate the offer, camb is closer. mods plz delete this thread, kthx, mops.

cam, whereabouts are you ? wasnt it H-town ? i'm in Auckland, sandringham, i can drive to north shore no probls

Hello guys. plz excuse me for being so forward, but i think buying one of those from supercheap for $55 is a waste of money to use it once. I already replace my rear springs, but apparently front ones require a spring compressor.. So i'd like to borrow one for an evening or two. for a box of beers perhaps ? (ride in a turbo e30 ?) I can pickup/dropoff in auckland area. I do realize this is not ideal forums section to put this thread is, so if mods feel strongly about moving it then please go-ahead. hopefully somebody visting this section will have access to one... cheers...

flipping m20 manifold is not recommended. this is because mounting holes are not centered around the exhaust port. so basically if you flip it you end up manifold blocking some port area.... maybe that could be fixe with some handy die grinder work.... but welinging cast manifold is a no-no... it will crack... if not during welding then during operation....

e30tech.com forums

what do you mena lock diff ? as in LSD or 'mig spec locker' ?

hm.... what's stuffed in the m52b28tu engine ? as for m5x crank into m20, besides oil seal i hear b28 might have clearance issues in the block and might need some grinding ? as for rods and pistons there are some options there... stock m20b25 pistons with eta 130mm rods will end up the same deck height... with more swept volume=higher compression.... well depends really... you would have to quantify your goals and budget...

that was AVGAS, and it's still being sold as 'race fuel' in some remove stations. kids... AVGAS (aviation fuel) is leaded (as opposed to unleaded), as in contain lead, and not to metnion it's illegal for use on the street, it will kill your oxygen sensors in a matter of few hundred kilometers driving on pure AVGAS. It's "ok-ish" for few runs down the strip

what did wilwood setup cost you ? only discs or do you have calipers too ? how big are the discs ?

what ratio diff ?

i'm after rear part oc center console 9the plastic panel that goes around the handgrake), in good condition... possibly 260 manual box ? how many k's on it ?

Hi, I'm after rear center console, if it's in good nic. whereabout in akl are you ?

Hi. I would be quite keen for it, if it's stil lavailable, provided it looks and feels ok to me. Where about are you mate ?

aswell i'm after read section of center console (the bit that goes around handbrake)

did you managed to check those diffs ? I'm after 3.46 in medium case.... aswell i'm after read section of center console (the bit that goes around handbrake)

oh i see.... Aswell I'm after rear part of center console (basicaly that plastic panel console thing that goes around handbrake) in good condition.