E30-323ti

LOL now thats a novel concept, I'm not sure I can tho

Grrrr, fascist moderators, handing out li blue squares willy nilly, oh hang on... whats that say under my user name... nah. leave it there, makes me feel like a rebel

That would be my take on it also. Or make them go red?? Each worth 20% Give it a try and lets us know what happens

As I said someone has to find fault. If the tyres are that I can come up with, then it's pretty dam good. BTW, it doesn't do jack to the ABS so long as all tyres have the same rolling diameter! I find it hard to believe they "wouldn't work" I can/do run tyres with those rolling diameters (between 625 & 650mm) and 225 to 245 width on my run of the mill E30 without a hint of rubbing. Anyway, it's just my opinion, still a stunning ride.

Steering wheel, gear stick boot, gauges, N.A.S.T.Y. And it has no roof!!! And tent fabric doesn't count. Engine bay is beautiful though.

Well I suppose someone has to make a negative comment... Tyres 'look' too small, 40's front & 35's rear would fill the guards better. Other than that, very nice.

Saw that on there & your Q's. Deff. won't work with the stock ECU etc... Well, unless you toast your engine that is. As for the RHD thing, I think the turbo would sit where the steering column goes. What a lot of the E30 guys with turbo's M50's do in the states, is "flip" the manifolds, so the turbo sits high at the front. Don't see why that wouldn't work for a E36. But it is not a "bolt-in" turbo kit!

I know exactly what you are saying. Public transport isn't appealing if it's not: -Comfortable -Convenient -Economic For the last 10yrs it has served me well, and still does. Sure somethings just piss you right off, like having to catch the train on the way to melling to get a seat in the morning 'cause it's overcrowded by the time it gets back to western hutt, and the reason is there are 2 less carriages than a year ago & it cost me more $14/month for the luxury (esp. on these wet days). But it still fits the criteria above, FOR ME, that is. Even still at $96/month (up from $72/month 10yrs ago) it is still under a 1/3 of running (gas/parking) & maintaining (WOF Reg. Tyres insurance) even the most boring of automobiles. So No, "congestion charges" don't effect me. If they are going to implement something like it, they should really look at promoting "car pooling" If the fee is say $1 then a discount of 25c/ for each passenger (over 2), so if you're loaded up, it's a free commute. But in all reality, Wellington doesn't have a congestion problem, peoples tolerance is lower thats all. When I need to take a work car home/to work at peak hour, average would be 1/2hr. About the same if I rode my bike or took the train. Spend some time in Auckland or other bigger cities overseas and you'll see congestion!!!

Un-dibs'd

You should have centre bore locating rings with those wheels, the E39 wheels are 74mm Vs the E28 72.5mm, most tyre places will be able to get them in for you. If that doesn't fix it, it could be a worn thrust arm bushing (the rearward of the two front suspension arms).

ITB = Individual Throttle Bodies. SC = Supercharger. PDSC = Positive Displacement SC (From above) eg. Roots or Screw type "Blowers" as opposed to a Centrifugal SC (which look like turbo's with a belt on the back).

Interesting indeed!! Few Q's. You going to run the stock ITB's?? If so, I'd imagine some kind of bypass/recirculation would be needed post SC? All PD superchargers I have ever seen run a single TB *BEFORE* the SC (incl. factory SC'd engines), this controls the amount of air the SC can draw and is pressurized and thus put into the engine, otherwise the SC can draw at its given capacity & pressurize a lot more air than you need and where is all the extra going to go (eg. part throttle)?? FMIC is a V.good idea, PDSC's like to make the air pretty dam hot. Managing the heat soak is going to be a big part of making this a reliable setup. Adding water sprayers for the IC is a good start. What is a External Wastegate for?? Keep up posted on your progress!! ps. I have the matching engine mounts

What do you mean you can't hook up the tacho?? Off the top of my head, grab a E30 4cyl tacho, wire up to one of the dizzy inputs (you have 2 on the 1UZ, 8cyl/2=4cyl). I would have thought the Link could output a 1/2rpm signal for a 4cyl tacho, or even better a 3/4 for a 6cyl tacho. OR if it's running wasted spark then it is already spitting out a 4cyl signal to the coils. Just to tease, mine works fine from the 1JZ signal

NO not exactly... Same stud pattern yes, but E34 (specific eg. OEM) wheels will not fit on an E39 as the wheel centre bore is different (72.5 Vs 74mm). E39 wheels will go on a E34, but you "should" use hub centering rings. So it depends what you are trying to do!?!?! E34 to E39 or E39 to E34!?!?! [shameless plug] I have a set of 17x8's for a E39 if you were in the market for wheels (brand new)[/shameless plug]

They will "bolt on" to older Holdens, HQ's etc... and be a about the correct offset BUT, they have a 5x120.65 PCD which will "bolt up" but wouldn't be recommended. Momo do make some self centering lug bolts (used for 5x114.3 wheels onto 5x112 cars like merc's), which would be advisable to use. The Centerbore will also be wrong (to big) but CBL rings could be made. So if someone want to put them on a holden, thats there call, likewise if someone wants to put them on E36 etc... *Disclaimers* are your friend.

Super Keen!! Is it in good working order, ie. Roller in good cond?? Threads not chewed?? Would you ship to Wgtn for your BuyNow? PM or TXT/call on 0274 321 919 Glenn

I'm running Urethane mounts from Ireland Engineering. Were pretty cheap, even better now with the exchange rate. And were here in ~7days.

There is no problem, the wheel sits further back in the well but castor is to the higher end of the spec'd range. With the E36 struts you can get shims to kick the bottom out the give the desired camber with E30 top plates or use camber plates for easier adjustment and no shims if wide tyres are needed.

Right... Not "liking" the 4 lug doesn't sound like much of an engineering problem, so you can use what ever means you like to get the 5 lug you do like. If say the reason was something like, blowing CV's, then that would mean you need M Coupe trailing arms & axles (not likely to find in NZ!), or, like I have done, modify an E28 subframe, TA's & Axles to fit (which involves extensive body/chassis mods, but is cheap if you can DIY & has better geometry). The E36 "ti" Trailing arms use the same CV's as the E30 so won't help this prob. The other option is to get custom stub axles made to fit the E36 ti trailing arms and use a "6 bolt" CV outboard & inboard (same size as E28 ones), this also means custom axles=expensive if you keep breaking them. If you are blowing Diffs also, then you need to use a 210 (big case) diff, which also needs bigger axles & minor chassis mods to fit. One from an E28 will bolt into the E30 subframe. Or use a diff from another manufacturer. I'd also suggest modifying your driving style, 188's are pretty tough so you must be treating it like an animal!! It sounds like you need a slower car (or a bicycle) if you can't keep a hold of your license in the first place!! But I'll keep my opinion to myself if you keep your bragging to your self aye!?!?! My profile lists the E36 front parts to use, it's all "bolt in" so hardly rocket science. I would suggest converting coilovers as then you have plently of flexibility and it all has to be cert'd anyway...

E36 front & E36 ti rear, is the easiest & cheapest. Q. Why are you going 5 lug?? That will give a better indication of what to go for.

The spacing of the gears relative to each other. say 0.2,0.4,0.6,0.8,1 is "normal" giving 0.2 betweens gears then 0.35,0.55,0.7,0.85,1 is "close" giving reducing differences between the ratios. Thus when the car is at speed there is less rpm drop between the higher ratios yet the same top speed can be achieved. The lower gears are longer as the engine has plenty of torque (when multiplied by the ratio) to drive in those taller gears, and who uses first when "racing" anyway. Thats very broad brush, but the general jist of it. As mentioned earlier the 1:1 5th boxes use a lower final drive (diff) ratio. Running the 1:1 ZF with a 3.73 diff will yeild similar results to using a 4.45 diff with a Getrag 260.

Sorta, Try stomping on the gas and see how much it does it. Some torque still gets applied to the driveline, otherwise there would be a nasty shock & a bit of a lag when you do put your foot on the gas.

With it being an Auto & RWD when you put it into a forward or reverse gear with your foot on the brake, the back-end will squat (in drive) or lift (in reverse), this is due to the torque rotating the rear wheels/trailing arm with the torque thus causing the squat/lift you are experiencing. Nothing to be concerned about!!

I definitely agree. Driving on limit is another luxury (if you can call it that) I don't have, needing to drive the car home at the end of the day and all. Having longer braking zones undoubtably adds extra heat into the brakes that could be avoided with a more agressive/racing driving style. I wouldn't call it a proper race car just yet, or belittle a E30 series car (prob. quicker around the track than I would be LOL). These were my original brakes, they are a fair bit bigger now. 996 Porsche Calipers front & back with Pagid Oranges Well I'll be....

Dunno if 1:15's at puke are fast sorry, but with 2.5x the power I imagine it would be substanially quicker. I also thought they would be lighter than that!! (1050-1100kg) When I had mine corner weighted (with full interior + all the other heavier components I'm running, brakes, wheels, diff, subframe/RTA's) it was 1250kg. It's now completely stripped (awaiting cage funds $$) so should be a fair bit less. I don't use it as a "road" car, it's only road legal because a tow car & trailer aren't in the budget (ever) so need to drive it to the track & back. At Manfield it has 3 hard stops from ~200kph per lap so yeah, there is A LOT of difference than some boy racer hauling up from a 100mph run from the traffic lights.