E30-323ti

Also look at the TC Kline stuff from the US, they do a nice DA Koni kit (double adjustable) but I think its a bit more $$$ but the rear shocks are top adjustable. Thing to watch with the GC kits is the short rear springs aren't always captive (depending on what rate & length you go for), doesn't seem to be an issue for the US guys but is a LEGAL requirement here for your WOF. You can do something with the strut tops on the E36 M3 (swap left to right?) to get more camber but the GC complete front kits has Camber plates from memory. I think the Koni kit you mention last is what I got (only used the fronts & on-sold the rest), but it was almost half the NZ price you are quoting, I gather it is through stocks? When I got mine they were the last they had instock so may have been heavily discounted to "move" them?? Also remember these are all cert plate mods you are thinking about.

"out of the box" is what it's about though Carl. None of this 3rd party software/hardware is needed to improve what you buy. Some people don't like fiddling with computers to get them doing what they want. I've got so many 3rd party pieces of software on my PC to get it to do what I can on the Mac with ease. It makes the regular "rebuilds" a nightmare remembering what you've installed to do what, did you keep a copy of it or do you have to download it again. For a maintenance/hassle free home computer, a Mac works great, is easy to use, is stylish, not being a computer geek but how many times do you look at your PC and say "wow, you are a cool piece of white ware aren't you!! And you don't even sound like a coffee machine!!" I'm not saying they are the be all & end all of computers, PC's are still better if you like to "fiddle" or into heavy gaming etc... and you can build something that performs better for less no doubt, but does it make you smile!?!?!

Yip, the bit that bolts to the bottom of the struts to attach it to the control arm and tie-rod so you can steer.

You also need the E30 M3 steering arms and discs/calipers/dust shields (unless going custom). All of which becomes very expensive very quickly in comparison to the E36 parts. Which IIRC, this thread is about??? Any of this stuff will need a cert so it doesn't matter what route you take either.

What do you mean by file management Andrew? I find that is more a function of good user habits than the operating system, but you may be talking about something different?? And I have no idea what carl was talking about, I just plug the macbook into the TV & it goes, finds the type of tv and adjusts the res etc... to suit. Easy for the non computer geeks to handle

I have a MacBook and love it, have an old eMac at home too which has been faultless for 5yrs now (but is slow now compared to the macbook). For a home computer, the bog stock out of the box Mac just blows your socks off in terms of ease of use, stabilitly, managing things like your photos, music, video and overall performance etc... Takes about 20s max to boot up, log in, and get BS up!! The best thing is, connecting the MacBook to the the 42" plasma & using frontrow to show your photos and has a funky little remote, none of this huddling the family around PC. Battery life is pretty good I feel, being my first laptop I wouldn't really know but I have no complaints. Will do ~4hrs surfing the net with the wifi going & itunes cranking. The MacBook pro's while offering bigger screens I don't think would benefit me any more, thus I'm not a pro that needs the "extra" out of them. Once you go Mac you never go Back!!! My 2c

Pay to also check the centre support bearing in the drive shaft, it is a common source of vibration under load!!

With what size tyres?? Skinny little 205's??

Rear stuff is straight E30. I've always had coilovers up front so not 100% sure what works But I have heard E30 springs & top perch work fine on the E36 struts, just don't know how well the E30 springs sits on the E36 lower perch & the height.

245/45's on 16x9's mmmm tasty!!! A bit bigger than the stock OD but if you "NEED" the rubber. I have 17x9" rears & 8.5" Fronts on my E30, but it's not even close to stock or sees much road use so I'll STFU FWIW you can get more than enough tire (235/40) on a 17x7.5" for an E30 with plenty of power. I ran 225/45R16's for years on the street without issue, in fact, on the street it had more traction then than it does now. If I were you, rather than spend almost $4k on some wheels, I'd do a 5 lug swap, run the 17x7.5" E36 M3 LTW reps forsale on trademe and do the suspension. Would look fantastic, handle superb and have big brakes. And I'll bet you'll have change from what you want to spend on the pimpn' work wheels, just my 2c

Yeah, but us full PJ folk have cracked 10% too!! (for now) But who are they, that is the question!!!

So why are there no votes in the Female wear then Gusto!?!?!

I know, its like they are all too embarrassed to comment on their bed/lounging attire. I want to know who the other full JimJam person is, com'on, show yourself!!! Don't be ashamed!! LOL it is a weird thread tho. I think Carl just wanted to talk about getting some Columbian Drug Lord lounge wear, that and a perverse desire for others to post pics for him in their jammies, you dirty old man!!!

The full length flannel PJ glory at the moment. Yes the wife does have a good laugh at my expense, but hey, they are super comfy, like overalls in the garage. Besides these single digits are tough to acclimatise to after the Middle East where it was definite boxer weather.

Not another one LOL Progress is looking good, should be a blast when done.

Thats interesting to hear they were illegal, I guess it all keeps the costs in check. I've got some pics of a similar pin arrangement for the outer mounts for the E36, I'll dig them out, you can get the tie-rods & shims from GC in the states to tidy-up the bump steer too, very nice bits. ps. hope you got a CAD-CNC file made of that bit conrod, make future replacements easier and for those that want some copies

Location $$$$ (indication even) Colour Any other redeeming features? Tidy, ratty??

Reason I ask about lifting the front control arm mounts is half use of going away from stock arms is to lift the mount so when you are running the car quite low you don't drop the roll centre under ground, which is a fundemental problem with the E30/36 front end. I was also refering to the rear mount of the front control arms, raising/lowering the rear of the arm will allow you alter the cars anti-dive traits. The backend on a E36 is another kettle of fish if you are running the car low and does some funky things to the geometry. To an engineer, there is always use at looking at things in progress, building it is 90% of the fun, thats why mine is in pieces 90% of the time LOL.

35 is good for the front, could be a little low for the rear, I know E36's are a bit tight outback, usually ~41-43 for a 9" rim. Nothing a good guard rolling wont fix. I have seen 235/40 r18's up front, but they are quite tall and can rub the front inner guard, and lip of the guard, so 225/40 may be a better choice, 255/35 R18 out back. Thats a fairly decent stagger! I'd go with the same size all round (rims & tyres), you can then rotate them & should handle better.

Air Jacks, what a luxury Have you got any pics of the tubular control arms?? Have you modded the front subframe to lift the pick-up point & put into double shear? What have you done for the rear control arm mount? have you made this height adjustable? Wouldn't mind a guided tour one day if you have the time.

The travel is governed by the shocks, the stack height comes into play when you want to run the car real low. For example the pic Josh put up, both will have the same travel (shock dependant), but the one on the left can run say~1" lower and still have the same travel. Before you think that is the shitz you need to ask yourself, do I need to run it that low? is the suspension geometry past the optimum? (ie, control arm angle>increase roll couple, reduced suspension droop) are the springs stiff enough to make use of running that low?

Hey, that looks familiar LOL I would advise against the short springs & adjustable perches for the stock location on an E30 The shocks would need to be very short also for them to remain captive (which has big implications on an e30 when you limit the droop) which is required here in NZ (but very lax in the US thus the popular GC kits). The linear springs also have limited travel, those pictured would have ~70mm MAX before they bind, because of the high leaverage ratio when they do bind (and do so for some time) you will end up bending the trailing arms. You can get "barrel" shaped springs (like stock ones) which are much better providing more travel before binding, TC Kline supply them in various rates. It is one of those things, yeah sure it works, but if you want it to "WORK" do it right.

Well those that are doing a brake upgrade for "looks" aren't going to give a hoot about unsprung weight (considering they'd probably got heavy ass chromies anyway) and will prolly paint the calipers red and put lil brembo stickers on them. For those that need bigger brakes the E46 calipers and rotors are a great perfromance upgrade and the additional unsrung weight vs cheap cost & ease of fitment is a bit of a no brainer really. Not many can afford the big $$ light weight stuff. Kind of makes statement like yours a bit reduntant and unnecessary in someones "for sale" threads don't you think!?!? Good luck with the sale Ray, If only it had of been 2yrs ago when I was looking, damit (O'well bigger & better things).

Dayum, the prices have gone way up, to go with the flashy new website too!! I think he started getting the quaife units in for the E39 540's as they run their own 220 diff and quaife were the only LSD supplier (and works fine with the ASC-T, ABS, etc...) But he has a very good race car reputation for building top quality & performing diffs and support, just ask over on bimmerforums.

They have a preload on the clutch packs, which is what people usually refer to as the lock-up % (25% stock 40% etc...), the stock LSD carrier has the same ramp angles for accel & decel, what is commonly done is to flatten the accel & steepen (or leave as is) the decel ramp, this means while differential action is occuring and power being is delivered it increases the lock-up at a quicker rate, like-wise for decel if the ramps are steepened the diff is less able to load the plates and provides less locking effect, good for turn-in etc... Dan also sell KAAZ LSD centres for the 188 diffs which I'm sure have 2 different sets of ramps already machined so you can tear it down and put the spider gears in the "other" ramps. They were a bit cheaper than the quaife too from memory ~$1100us incl shipping. Be interesting to hear how andy find the quaife on the track. He's running a "decent" sized rear bar isn't he??