gmccormack

Thats the sh*t :mosh:

The holes are on the left side of the bell housing, near the slave cylinder hose.Petone makes a good point, where is your dizzy, on the end of the cam?? or out the side of the block?? I ask because I have come across facelift 320's and post 85 prefacelift 320's that only had L-jet in them too, where as the 325's come out in 85 and are all Motronic. Also some of the early 320's Ive wrecked have had a much more crude form of L-jet (E21 style ignition etc) than my 323 ever did. There seem to be a lot of inconsistancies!

It is an easy swap as long as your gearbox has the holes in it for the crank angle sensors (323 L-jets use 2 just like early Motronic 2.5's, but some 320 gearboxes don't have the holes). The retangular plug on the 323 engine loom has to be changed for a round Motronic one and you may have to swap starters depending on the respective years of your car and the new engine. You need to use the radiator and ECU intended for the 2.3 as well. The 323 engine is fantastic, you will hardly notice the difference between it and a 2.5L

The back door lock can't effect the drivers lock. Sounds like the central lock motors are just worn out. Take your door cards off and have a look if there is any obvious damage or wear to the motors. Could try cleaning and relubricating the lock machanisims too. I have plenty of spare motors if you need new ones.

Crazy, because the L-jet ECU only has a fuel map for a 2 or 2.3 litre engine. Being able to adjust the timing is pointless if you can't get enough gas into it.

What are you trying to do Gus, fit an L-jet engine to a motronic car or just make a motronic engine run on L-jet management? The former is easy the latter is crazy.

B&G springs. $150 ono.

Where is the car located?

2 door?

NGK ZFR5F

Yes I have a temp gauge too and fuel, tacho, speedo and S.I. boards. 021 136 7007 or 299 7942 or PM me

If the service indicator lights are working properly there probably won't be anything to see as such. If the Ni-Cads have gone bad there may be visable damage to the circuit board etc. If there is no obvious damage its probably best just to plug a new guage in and see if that fixes it. All the fuel guages are the same internally reguardless of which car they are fitted to but there are different faces. Some just have 1/2 & 1/1 etc on them while others have litre numerals on them (55, 50, 40.....) some say unleaded fuel only etc , which do you have???

Gauge problems in prefacelift cars are usually caused by worn out or corroded Ni-Cads on the SI board. Replacing them is not too hard. If you need new gauges, I have half a dozen sets......

Yes, sorry if it's only a basic alarm you might need diodes or you can use a double pole relay but if your lucky the alarm might have to seperate output wires for the left and right indicators. William it is blue/black not blue/yellow, sorry.

Water pump on a M40 is easy- no need to do timing belt. Just remove the fan (32mm nut with left hand thread) undo the pulley, then remove the bolts that hold the pump in, then screw two of them back into the spare bosses provided. The two bolts act as a sort of puller (in reverse), pressing the old pump out of it's hole. Ive got a second hand pump if you want, but I would get a brand new one from the dealer (less than $100)

The lock/unlock (green/blue & yellow/blue) and door switch (brown/violet)can all be found behind the drivers side front speaker panel. The indicator wires (blue/red and blue/yellow from memory) can be found by removing the cardboard panel under the steering column.

Has anyone taken a look at the 87 M3 forsale in the latest Classic Car magazine.(inside back cover) I gather it can't be complied for another year or so, but for only 15K it might be worth a look

Either the syncros or release bearing are rooted or your not getting the full throw out of the slave cylinder because it or the master cylinder is on it's way out

I've got a windscreen for it. PM me or 021 136 7007 or 299 7874

2 door?

The metal panel under the bumper is structural. You don't change it, the new rear skirt (fibreglass or plastic or whatever) goes over the top of the existing steel panel. I have a full set of prefacelift headlights for $100 A new prefacelift EFI pump is over $300+GST from the dealer. E30 pumps failing is a common problem. A cheaper alternative might be a second hand pump from a 6 cylinder VL commodore. Same shape, same size, same electrical connectors etc.

The overheat light is warning you that the cat is to hot. It's common for it to give a false warning. Usually caused by a broken wire or because the plug has been pulled out. Take the bulb out and throw it away then cut the cat out of the exhaust and throw it away too

I've got a spare one from a prefacelift 325, but it should fit a facelift 320.

It's not a BMW M1, it's a EMW. Everson Motor Works replica, chev V8 powered

Pin 1 (white wire) and pin 2 (blue wire) are the only pins that need to be connected to slave the BMW motors. They are the only pins used on the petrol flap and rear doors.