gmccormack

Surely the radar reading is being used against you as evidence in a prosecution (of a speeding infringement) and as such must be provided to you freely if requested in order for you to mount a defence, if you so desire. Isn't it similar to the problem the police ran into when they tried to charge people money to get a copy of your own speed camera photos, which was also illegal.

With one door open, push the switch that turns the interior light on and off. Hold on to each of the relays under the glovebox in turn. You will be able to feel and hear it click on and off. There should be power at the relay with the ignition on and the doors closed but also power when the ignition is off and the doors open.

A scrap metal dealer pays me to take mine away. Give a local scrap metal dealer a call.

FL cars have an extra fuse mounted on the fan unit (not just the one in the fuse box) could it be that? The windows........could be a fault between the ignition switch and the window relay under the glove box.

Only four wires need to be connected to start and run. Pin 1 black (alternator) Pin 7 green (coil) Pin 13 green/violet or green/white depending on the year (fuel pump relay) Pin 18 black/yellow (starter) The other wires are just for the gauges and warning lights.(they are also the ones I have found the most colour changes in) The extra wires in the plug are often for options that may or may not have been fitted to either your car or the car the engine came from. eg ABS, airbag, aircon etc. The wires for those options are routed out through the engine bay plug so they can connect to the diagnostic plug.

Which part of the wiring looks different? If you are replacing the whole engine bay loom including the ECU plug you shouldn't have any problems. If both your engine loom and car loom use the round firewall mounted plug it will all just snap together. Some of the wiring colours ( but not pin placement ) were changed over the production run, is that what you ment by "looks different"

PM sent.

They are a different design. You can use either but the FL one is a stiffer design to improve the pedal feel. I have a spare PreFL one kicking around.

The rear window lock switch could be the problem. Why don't you take the door cards off and hook the battery up directly to the window motors to test them?

Prefacelift or facelift?

I think that wiring might still be sitting in my old 86 325 wreck, I'll have a look anyway.

Just use all the wiring that is on your PreFL engine. It is much easier to disconnect the ECU and the round plug on the firewall, then pull all the engine wiring out with the engine than it is to go around the whole engine disconnecting and reconnecting every plug. that was the idea - I think he means does the Motronic ECU Loom -> Motor Loom Plug from facelift match the ECU -> motor loom plug from pre f/l The ECU plug is part of the engine bay loom, not the car loom. The ECU plug and ECU should all stay with the engine, not the car!!

All the optional electrics plug in behind the glove box. The plugs are all keyed, so you can't fit them into the wrong socket. The plug shapes change over the years, so to make things easy on yourself try and use parts from the same or similar years.

Just use all the wiring that is on your PreFL engine. It is much easier to disconnect the ECU and the round plug on the firewall, then pull all the engine wiring out with the engine than it is to go around the whole engine disconnecting and reconnecting every plug.

Those switches are a real weakness in E30's. Any second had switch you get hold of might work for a while, but will probably crap out too. Have you taken your switches apart and cleaned the contacts? it's usually all they need. I have had over two years more out of mine just from cleaning them.

I got one, I could bring it with me to the karting if you're going to be there?

And there is another ..........single flange with 4 studs

You may be able to get away with swapping them from one side of the car to the other, that way the white plastic clips end up in a different (undamaged) part of the channel that they fit into. To avoid breaking them again always work outwards from the centre (its harder to crack the channel in the middle than at the ends) of the strip. Once you get a couple of the centre clips free the trim will just slide off the last couple of end clips without any damage. I have some spare clips and I might have some of the trim somewhere too, if your stuck for replacements..........please please please dont drill holes in your car.

They do retail, but they don't undercut there own wholesale customers. So it's usually cheaper to buy Stocks products through your local workshop than it is to buy direct.

The light warns you the cat has gotten too hot. If the wire to it gets broken or disconnected the warning light comes on reguardless of the temp.

Gus, I might know of a cheap 323 if you end up wanting to reshell. Same spec as my old henna red car before the engine swap, but auto.

You would have to be out of your tree to pay anything like that money for an E30. You could make even the nastiest e30 look and go pretty well if you chucked $20000 at it You'd have to asking serious questions if you paid more than 12. 12..............hundred?

You would have to be out of your tree to pay anything like that money for an E30. You could make even the nastiest e30 look and go pretty well if you chucked $20000 at it

The plugs for the electric window wiring and mounting holes for the motors etc are all there. I pulled the glass out of a facelift with manual winding windows and a prefacelift with electric windows..... the glass was a different shape where it attaches to the mechanisim. I don't know if they were different because one was FL and the other preFL or if it was because one had electric windows and the other didn't. So you may have to replace all the glass too.

If your cars distributor is driven off the end of camshaft you can probably use your existing gearbox and radiator. Your diff ratio will be too high. Use the ECU, airflow meter and engine bay wiring loom that belong to the 2.5L engine. You don't actually need to change the engine wiring, but it is easier to pull it all out with your old engine, then put the new engine and its wiring in as one (involves one plug under the dash and one on the firewall-verses dozens of plugs on the engine and around the engine bay). The springs are softer, the struts are smaller and there is usually no anti roll bar in the back of a 320, it's standard on a 325 as are 4 wheel discs (some 320 only have rear drums) The suspension and brakes don't need to be changed to get the motor in of course, but you should keep them in mind when it comes time to get a cert.