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Everything posted by Neal
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I think superchips did a inline for these many years back. Also check the sticky on the 2.7 litre conversions for the M20 engine. One conversion I read years back talked of using 323i rods. However, my understanding is that the Le jettronic will compensate if you do things like air filter / and freer flowing exhaust (EG you don't need to chip it if you change those things and it should add more fuel based on airflow.) Would be interesting to dyno a E30 320 race car with Motronic verse Le Jettronic as I suspect the Le might produce a bit more on the dyno due to the allowable exhaust change. The Le should add more fuel as a result. Others may be able to put me right here if I've got it wrong.
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Yeah, this is the same route as the 94 E36 with factory badged sony changer
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Not sure on shipping costs as our's was free , but it took 7 weeks for our contain from London to arrive in Tauranga and another week for it to arrive in Wellington when we moved back from London.
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Warning!!!! Rear speaker installations
Neal replied to *Glenn*'s topic in Audio & In Car Entertainment
Yeah , no cutting of pannels within 300 mm of Seat belt mounts , according to ltsa. Done for everyones saftey. -
Must be someone how's copied the AC E36 M3 CLS arche's by now http://www.ultimatebmw.co.uk/month.html
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Used to have bad tram lining on my AC type 1's (16x8) running 225/50/16's with a Uniroyal performance tyre I moved to Bridgestone Gii and then later gIII's which cured the tram lining / weaving under braking & downhill stability . This weekend I replaced the fronts with the new bridgestone re001 ( http://www.potenza-adrenalin.com/ ) these are the replacement for both the Giii and S02's. No tramling with these and seem good so far. The design looks like it will protect the rims (No as much as the lower profile older verson Giii) In terms of tyre threads ..... Yep they do crop up , but there are always newer tyres on the market so these threads do need to crop up again. Maybe it's work a sticky thread on tyres with opinions that can change as the tyres do. I've seen this run well on motorcycle track day forums Just remembered , 8 inch type 1's may require the rear arches to be rolled with anything wider than a 225 so check clearance if you go to a 235 (the 225/50/16 rear Uniroyal's used to rub sometimes )
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Very nice with all the right options. Hints .... If you hop out of the car and have left the windows down you can close the windows from the drivers door lock by turning the key anticlockwise for about 2 -3 seconds and hold it in that position. Any windows left open will close.
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My wife was going to buy one of these a few year back , fortunately she took it for a test drive on the motorway which included a roundabout after the exit. After the thing nearly rolling and been extremely gutless she changed her mind and brought an E36 318I , She has since upgraded to a 328i and has never looked back. Make sure your wife give it a good test drive before buying, should be enough to change her mind. As for bridge ported rotaries at 2 am .......... wait until your 40 + and one turns up outside your place at 2am ........ must be getting old.
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325i is 143 kw 323i is 120 something kw , I understand that the inlet manifold is also different. Schintzer used the older 325i one on the 323ti upgrades they used to do in the 1990's to restore some of the difference.
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Probably closer to 160 kmh in first ,Many of the current 1000cc Sports bikes will do this.Saw a "Busa" turbo in action late last year are the Carterton Sprints. The guy was running a lowish boost which resulted in 230 rear bhp. Was having issues with the standard ECU so wasn't running to it's full potential. Still managed a flying quarter around the 290 km mark. A standard non turbo one managed over 300km in the last sprints. Cars 1, BMW E30 M3 (most successful touring car) 2, 930 Turbo , Porsche get serious 3, BMC Mini (ok .... I own a couple of these ,41 years of production) 4, Contach Lambo 5, Merc SLR Bikes 1, MV Augusta 2, Britten V1000 3, Ducati 851 Best sounding L-twin 4, Yamaha R1 (1999) , First lightweight 1000cc road rocket 5, Buell Old iron meets motorgp
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Urgent: Best ground point in boot E36
Neal replied to Nobimmer's topic in Audio & In Car Entertainment
Negative terminal on the battery would be the best earth , but I suspect your picking up the noise from else where -
My e36 325i 192hp ,1240 kg ,77 hp per ltr , 155 hp per tonne (or are these e36's 1340 kgs can't remember) Wifes e328i 193hp ,1240 kg ? 68 hp per ltr 155 hp per tonne My 1330 cc turbo mini club car 660kg ( probably lighter )133.5hp @ 15 lbs 100 hp per ltr 197 hp per tonne Second mini 1000cc 660cg 38hp 50 hp per ltr 50 hp per tonne My Ducati 750 , 200 kg 130 hp, 130 hp per ltr 650 hp per tonne or 400 hp per tonne with rider
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I second Silverstone , and if no racing is on then I'd recommend the following http://www.silverstone.co.uk/php/de_ferrari_exp.html http://www.lastminute.com/lmn/pso/catalog/...RODID=361599784 I did this a couple years back in a 355 , I see they have changed it to a 360 now. Otherwise I thought Edinborough in scottland well work a visit, as was the Imperial war Museum in London The day tour of London is probably a good start.
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Welcome and look forward to the pics, my first BMW was a E21 323i/6 . I'm still very fond of the E21's. I can remember the E21 was a bit of a sound challenge with it's oval speaker layout and sealed metal speaker enclousers build into the rear deck , plus the boot was well sealed off as well. Will be interested to see how you've overlayed your sound gear. Cheers Neal
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PM Sent No cutting required to fit Sony HSF 6.5's into the front. Metal speaker cutout needs a couple of mill adjustment to fit in baskets.
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Pboy , I had a typo in my previous email , 5.25's will fit in the front without issues. The rear 4.5's are in a ported enclosure so I haven't done the maths to work out the rear enclosure volume / tuned frequency / Q factor and if a larger speaker will work in the enclosure .I suspect these are tuned in the 90 / 100 hz region which is a bit high for 5.25's and above. I still run the 4.5 rear speaker as they are fine for rear fill and you don't run the problem of over running infinite baffle speakers sitting in the rear parcel street with the cones been overdriven with subs in boot. (The surrounds of the speaker cone will rip over time .... trust me) I run the rears off the head unit and have the fader at the lowest level possible for the rears. In terms of speakers check out this page from a different posting http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....15&start=15 Cheers Neal
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Showing my age (and maybe poor taste !) I few I've been listing to lately New Order , Every things gone grey , Blue Monday Cure, A forest Grand Master Flash & the Furious Five, Jam on it Bill Idol, White Wedding, Sweet 16 Pink Floyd , The Wall Inner City, Good life Sylvester , Rock the box Fad gadget, (Elmo style 80's band) The Clash , London's calling The House sound of Chicargo Marginal Era , This heaven (Old theme to Radio with Pics) The Chills Kind of embarrassing , Still have a couple of hundred 12 inch 45's from DJ'ing in the 80's that hit the turntable from time to time. Still have the old BVL mixer as well.
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Uses Sony Bus system cable , Also has RCA Front and Rear out. Brilliant tuner too, will pick up fringe radio stations that modern decks won't.
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which e30's had battery in the boot factory???????
Neal replied to EDIRTY's topic in General Discussion
Some earlier E30 323i's had these as options and dog leg gearbox -
I don't thing I can ever remember hearing a good sound 9 x 6. These are only good for shear volume. Go for front two way speakers. 5 1/4 will fit straight in. I'd suggest speakers with detachable tweeters. Mount the tweeters on the dash up against the windscreen. Go have a listen to as many speakers as you can , don't buy unless you've happy with the sound. If you going to a car stereo company take a selection of your fav music. Get the store to select a head unit that has all its sound enhancements turned off and is running flat bass and treble. . Get the store to turn off any subs in the system and have a listen to the speakers only with your music. That way you'll here what the speaker actually sound like Select speakers in your price range. Listen carefully to the tracks you’ve selected. Ask yourself, does the treble sound ok, is it too harsh, is it too smooth, are the vocals clear, does the speaker convey the music well for its price. In terms of speakers bands I'd recommend having a listen to entry price models from the following brands. (These are some brands that I've listened to) Boston Acoustics Phoenix Gold. Sony XSH series (XSH series are embarrassingly good for the price) Rockford Fosgate JL audio Focal In terms of bass in a BMW, because of the factory speaker size you'll need to add a sub to fill in the bottom end base. For an entry level system I'd spend more on the fronts than the Bass as your ears are less sensitive to lower frequency distortion. You can get reasonable sounding bass from a 10 inch sub mounted in a sealed enclosure. (Don't run too smaller enclosure otherwise it will sound boomy) cheers Neal
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My mother put together a photo album of pictures recently that my late father took of the earlier Wellington Street Races. (Mobil 500 / Nissan Mobile 500) It has a number of pictures of BMW's which include cars that Richards /Billington drove and also included what I think was the Black JPS e30. Dad worked for the harbour board at the time so had access to most areas of the track including the pits so there's lots of good photos. I'll see if I can scan the negatives and post them here.
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Hi Charles28 Alpina paved the way for this. Google Alpina B8. Alpina made around 220 E36 based V8 Coupes. They ended up being 4.6 L engines. I saw one of these on the M1 around London last year. Pistonheads.com has one for sale so you can get the general jist of it. I believe that the issue with RHD versions is the exshaust manifold does no allow for RHD steering . Maybe that's just a case of getting custom manifolds done. I'd love to do this conversion my self at some stage if it's possible. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/184790.htm (link to B8 for as long as it lasts)
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The 333i turbo was feature in either top car or bmw car in the 1990's (unfortunantly I threw my copies out) , Wasn't a factory option. The Alpina B6 and Hartage H35s are similar in may respects but both use the 3.5 rather than the 3.3 big six. When i was living in London last year these cars were selling for the 5 -6500 pound mark , about the price of a tidy e30 m3. A mint 325i sport would have been about 4000 pounds tops at the time. My fav e30 based big six is the Hartge M3 H36 which was an M3 with the 3.5 M5 engine in it . I think there is a silver 333i in Wellington, I'm sure I saw one a few years back getting serviced at Shelly's. Good luck with finding one Edit, BMW Car May 1997 feature a standard and turbo'd 333i Specs Euro Spec 3210cc inline 6 Getrag 265 CR dog leg gearbox 25 % locking LSD 1256 kg 0-60 7.3 sec Vmax 143 MPH Aplina 7jx16 rims Blisten Dampers Sports Exhaust 197 bhp @ 5500 210lb @4300
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3Pedals is right. I have an e36 325i manual and a e36 328i auto. Both are standard apart from the 325i which had the Cat removed NZ new in 94 To move the 325i along it needs about 4000 -4500 before any real acceleration happens and most of it's power is in the 5000 - 6000 range. Max power is close to redline so needs plenty of revs. The 328i develops it's power/torque far earlier and although both engines have similar HP the 328i feels quite a bit quicker and needs far less revs to do it. I think this is the best part about this engine. Also for my commute the 328i will get another 30-50kms per tank over the older 325i engine. Last week it managed 630km to reserve light on a trip. Either way the price difference between 323 & 328 aren't great. Although NZ new 325i are easier to get as manuals and normal have a higher level of interior trim. Possibly hard to get these days with low KM's. The auto 328i will out accelrate the 325i manaal from standstill or any speed (as proven by my wife).