Neal

They are adjustable and will probably go another 25 cm wider than the E30 rails. Just had a look in the garage and need to find one of the brackets to complete .Will try and find them over the weekend and they are yours.

Kerry , After a 18 inch front M3 rim without curbing

Used gutter mount roof racks on my old e30. Came in handy for carrying long things when we built a house years back. Remember reading something about max weight for roof was arond 60 kg. I think the roof rack might be sitting in the garage somewhere. Can't remember brand (nz generic)but if any Wgtn members would like it (free) then pop me a pm.

Mate had the coupe version of these. On the coupe STI add water spray and variable ratio center diff so you can change the drive to give more bias to rear or front. Dispite regular thrasings his sti held together well. However , talking to the lads at the rally school a number of years back were saying that the EVOs were a bit stronger when used for competetion with gearboxs being the weak link in the wrx.(EVO4 era) Having said that plenty of performance shops know how to get the best out of these with stroker kits / stronger gearsets. Drive one first as the sti have lower gearing which makes for higher rpm at 100kmh. Great for having turbo in boost range but can get tiresome on journeys and fuel economy can suffer.

Looks like the import laws have changed for the best in regards to TVRs. Was looking at trying to bring back Chimera at the time (and an E30 M3). Left the M3 too late to have owned one under lhd rules. Sounds like it's far easier to bring cars these cars in now which is a good thing.

unit looks like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-410768634.htm

Nice mod , getting ready for analog switch off plus another video input e39 e46 x5 mk1 video module or bm53/54 tuner module to screen is RGsB. Note sync on green which cuts down choices.

If you can find one still go for a boston c110 sub. These are a high powered sub in a very small box as a result of running a 10 inch bass and a 10 inch passive radiator and i suspect they'd fit under the roof housing in your boot.They can take a ton of power and produce fast and tight bass. They are a two ohm load so will load up the power nicely on most single channel bass amps. They sound best with lots of clean power ( I'm running a 600rms class D soundstream amp for bass duties) A car stereo dealer was amazed at how well in performed compared to the current crop of mid range subs and I'm yet to find a replacement which produced quality bass from such a small enclosuer. Otherwise BSW make a good sub that uses the ski port into fire bass into the car for a conv. http://www.epinions.com/specs/pr-Boston_Ac...0_Car_Subwoofer

Scottie has had this car for some time, had a look over it a few years back when it had 30,000km. This car was as new in many regards and the km's are about right as he has a number of BMW's in his collection so it wasn't a daily driver . It sat up the back end of the showroom for a number of years with a tag of $39,000 He's been selling BMW since I last wore a school uniform so knows a good car from a dud.

One the subject of Jap radios has anyone done the RCA output mods on a BM53 tuner for pluging into aftermarket amps to bypass the balanced audio output stage ?

If this was the one sitting i n JGBMW Wgtn last year then it's one of the best examples of an E30 M3 I've seen including the UK when I lived there a few year back. Price has moved in the right direction but if your after one of the best examples of a convertable M3 then put it your must see list.

15 pounds on a 3.5 should give that e30 a fright ! Having trouble finding the spreadsheet, but did find a couple of useful bookmarks on the pc http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx#Fuel_Injector_Worksheet_ http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html (go to excel spreadsheet near bottom of page, not inmetric but easy enough to convert) edit , fuel pump specs http://www.lucasinjection.com/bosch_and_lucas_fuel_pumps.htm

Sounding like a great project My context was 450 kw plus rather than CC size which the RB26 can do quite easily with suitable mods. I'd suggest this would be harder to achieve with a M30 without extensive upgrades of internal components. For you fuel system / pump / injectors you really need to work the following Goals for Engine, e.g. , mild boost / high boost / hi HP / high torque Engineering of engine strength (If standard m30 then CR ratio will mean low boost or short engine life under high boost) Turbo / supercharger size as per engine goals Boost PSI to suit engine goals and build From there you can work out Optimal size for Fuel Pump / Fuel lines / injector size / regulator fuel pressure ratio / ECU inputs and outputs. I’ve got some spreadsheets somewhere that calculates injector size based on engine RPM / CC rating / Boost / HP goals. I can dig it out if you which. BTW , what ECU are you going to run ?

running 044 and -an6 on the Mini with fuel cell , complete overkill as this could supply 350 hp of fuel if needed. IMO I'd only go -an8 / 10 if running large cc V8 engine or high boost 2.6 GTR transplant.

http://www.e38.org/2000Manual-5Sedan-SportWagon.pdf Check out page 88 , note the bit about the engine running to reset certain functions

Try holding in the stalk end for a few seconds when fuel consumption is showing on the mid and for time put mid on time and try turning either tip meter reset or the one on the other side.

Current bike is a Ducati 748R which I've had for the last 8 years or so. Have done everything from touring on it to trackdays and Hillclimbs Saw a fantastic movie on the weekend called TT3D: Closer to the Edge. It follows a rider through the Isle of Man TT race. The movie is only on for a short time so catch it while you can. RIP Gary (left in pic)

The e46 has a electronics module called a "general module five" which controls alarm / door locking / lights / windows and a few other bits. The car also has an immobiliser built in. The module has connections for alarm siren / ultrasonic interior sensor & a tilt sensor which is in the boot. The alarm is a factory option . With the Japan e46 some have an alarm , some are pre-wired for an alarm and some are not wired for the additional sensors Looks like we need to work out work what your car has. If you key has a battery then you car will more than likely have the infrared central locking. Once you replace the battery you will more than likely need to re-sync the key (and any other keys) to re-enable the central lock function. follow this link first http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=19404

Factory way is easier if your car has pre-installed alarm wiring. Easiest way to check for pre - wire is to remove the boot side carpet and check for tilt senor wire connectors. Check out this guide for dyi install. http://www.e46fanatics.com/faq/alarminstall/index.html If you do have pre-wire you and do install a factory system then you will need to go to a BMW dealer or specialist on here to get the sensors / alarm enabled. Not sure on aftermarket install / others here may have done so and my be able to advise.

Early BMW branded Sony head units should work with later CD / CD / CDR text stackers. I tried a 94 Sony Tape / CD stacker on a mid 2000's stacker which worked ok. Not sure about the MP3 versions though.

Drifting Volvos is just wrong ....

@ Mike I looked at bringing a TVR back when I lived in the UK 2005/6 . The main issue is that they aren't tested for euro impact laws which means your not able to road register them here (TVR sent one for testing but the outfit doing the testing dropped the car off the back of a truck before it was tested so they didn't try again). They also don't qualify for low volume rules as they exceed the number of cars built per year under this scheme. I couldn't find a way to bring one other than for motorsport / trailer queen. I don't think the laws have change since.

From experence of running 16x8 AC Type 1's with 225/50/16 with rolled guards I tend to agree with 3 pedals. The car suffered badly from bump steer and hard braking downhill would require two firm hands on the steering wheel to counter weaving. I've only recently relised how bad this was since changing car. A recent trip to Auckland in the e36 I released how much of the time was spent guarding the tracking of the front wheels in corners and on road chamber. I now have a car that shares much of the e36 suspension yet the handling is night and day dispite harder springs / wider wheels and tires. The car holds true on corners and moves less on road camber than the wifes e36 328i. This is due no doubt to the correct geomerty being run

Get a glove box torch to sig socket converter cable (ebay $5 usd ) and connect your satnav to that outlet . I'm reasonably sure it is ignition switched(mulitmeter to check) and should have enough current to run a satnav http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Auxilia...=item51976d0379

Started getting a PC together to intergate into the e46 Nav Stereo System primary for sounds , but will add Freeview tuner / bluetooth / 3g internet and maybe alternative Nav sat and front & reverse cameras Will use usb to ibus controller so hope to use steering wheel and tv screen buttons for PC key board / mouse emulation. Also need to sort out speaker replacements / amps installs / and intergation with factory tuner / Nav & CD stacker and studio quality sound card off PC. If anyone is interested I'll start a project thread.