Neal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-IBUS-I-BUS-RS2...e-/160393261886 Similar design to the older Resler. You can also google circuit diagrams to build your own as the circuit isn't complicated.

Even with the diversity aerial use still comes down to the tuner used. The wifes Sony head unit in a e36 works better than the bm53 in the m3 for FM reception. I live in a finge area. Best FM receiption I've had in a BMW was the factory 1994 BMW OEM Sony U550 Tape player via e36 rear window. The tuner was designed in the early 1990's and runs rings around the 2000's stuff. I suspect a decent aftermarket tuner running one half of the rear window will out perform the factory unit switching between the two halves.

What model head unit is it ? You maybe able to retrofit RCA outputs at the op amp stage before the final amp stage. Plenty of examples on the internet for CD/BM53 / 54's . Wouldn't put to much power through the factory speakers. If they are nokia's then you looking at 20 rms watts max.

Have Ski MyHDI (acts as PVR ) mainly because I cant get Freeview HD reception. For digtial content I have a HT PC setup up with a bunch of file shares and currently 4tb of storage. HT PC will drop into low power mode when not being used for content and will spool down the drives for longevity Shared content can also be streamed / downlowded to PS3 (which does blu ray duties as well) PC's , Squeezebox audio streamer, iphones and CarPC

Came across this build tonight tonight> looks like a good way to do it. http://www.e46zone.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29298

For the race engine I'll run mobil 1 mainly because of the added turbo and of low wear I've had on older BMW engines while running this oil. But Keith Calver that writes a collum in mini mag has written a few artilces about the rights and wrongs of modern engine oils in older technology engines that don't have the same level of harding on some of the drive componets hence permature wear if some are used. Check out the end of the second article for an oil recommendation, but have a read through the two to gain the understanding of what is important for oils in a mini engine context http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ENG...89/ArticleV.cfm http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ENG...ticleV.cfmehind

Just checked out the photo's in a bit more detail. Looks like you've got a good one. Good price too. Many people have spent more than this to make standard minis look like cooper let alone the real thing. Change the tyres to 165's on your next change and you'll find the cornering will improve considerably.

All sounding good then. BTW, those old mini's become very addictive. I've got one side of the garage full with two & half minis from the 1960's. One is still leaking oil dispite having not being moved / started for 6 years !

Sound order based on M3 & e36 325i all 225's or wider. Note older models of tyres. Continental ContiSportContact 2 Mid noise level at low tread level Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08 ( close to Re001's) Bridgestone RE001 Adrenalin's

More to check (esp. if uk import as to NZ new) - Rut in the front floor sections - Rusted rear subframe - Rusted battery box in boot - Rust in rear boot floor edge - Rust in front subframes - A pannel rust and pannel at front windscreen Other things to check - Front ball joint wear on front hubs - Water leaks that lead to rotting carpets - CV joints (Do full left & right had turns and listen for CV knock) - Speedo circuit board / tacho - Some had issues with rubber fuel lines and NZ unleaded petrol on injected versions. - Rear drum brake pistons - Tearing around seat subframe mounts to chassis mounts - Gearbox rod change entry point oil leak (Easy to fix with $20 aftermarket mod) - Check alloy gearbox housing for impact factures at the front. That aside there are so many aftermarket bits for the old style Mini's that every area can be replaced or improved on. Typically the NZ coopers have been well looked after by collectors / Mini fans so many are in mint condition.

Well done ! Pics ?

I find with bike your body needs to adapt to the riding position which can take a few days in a row. I found that after 9000 km of adventure bike riding through Argentina a couple of years I had real issues with getting back on my Ducati with it's head down bum up riding position. It took a series of good long rides to sort it before it became ok again. Same if I don't ride it for a few months , shoulders / neck take a hammering for a while. Perhaps make a point of riding it to work over a week and then go for longer rides on weekend to develop riding fitness. Would seem a shame to sell the S1000rr without giving it a real good go.

Jeff Grey Wgtn weren't interested in doing a pir on my wifes e36 dispite me being a customer since the 1980's. However , they seem happy to service it for the last 5 years. However they may have changed and are doing these again like shelly's used too. otherwise Page did the pir. Have complete faith in those guys.

Ha ha , no pleasing some people eh What about going lower power / rewarding to drive like an Lotus Exige or the superchagred versions to hold you over. Not a lot of them in NZ so seem to hold s/h values. That of course you haven't already got one sitting in the corner of the garage

Surely in your neck of the woods a high end sports bike could fit the void for a while. You could do the west cost loop in a day which in my opinon is some of the best riding in the world. Something like a Bmw 1000rr or a Ducati 1198R of the new 195 bhp Duc sports bike ? None of the Cars so far mention can touch these for 0-300 kmh performance and these bikes have all the traction control to keep the wheels pointed in the right direction. Just a thought ....

I think it could only be down hill from there. Perhaps a Nissan Mica to hold you over Hired one in the Uk to get to Silverstone for a Ferrari track day. Couldn't have got any greater contrast in cars if I'd tried.

On a similar vane the late "Georg Plasa" Judd v8 power 1 series hillclimb car build. http://www.134judd.com/fahrzeug.html

Spent yesterday cleaning / removing tar specs / clay baring the M3 , just need to finish stage 2 & 3 of Mothers Waxing process to complete. Then have the 328i , two motorbikes and one of the oldschool mini's to do.

Love this stuff. Need to get off the internet and into the garage to finish off the mini . Looking forward to doing this stuff in a car .

The Sony sub amp runs class D with around 300 watts RMS into 4 ohms at 13.8 volts. (engine running with alternator charging) Used to produce good clean bass results with around 300 rms so the box is the key to overcome the challenges of the e36's well sealed boot. Mind you , power ratings can be interesting. Had an PG amp rated at 4x25 rms for the 100 watt car stereo class that used to exist. At 12 volts into 4 ohms you got 25 watts. At 13.8 volts you got 75 rms x2 = 300 rms x1 bridge. This power was plenty for nice high quality sounds with more that enough volume to overcome car and road noise.

Was through a dealer , but it sounded like they would sell direct. The policy I have doesn't mention that it has to via dealer.

Lumely are underwriting my M3 warranty. Worth a try.

Have you got somewhere to stay in Wellington ? Your welcome to stay here , Can pick you up / drop you off if needed.

Have seen the fronts in a 8 1/2 as reps. There was a pair on TM for serval months. Something else to consider. The 17's sound like a good way to go as well.

I reckon the M3 E46 18x9 rears would look great on the back I know of a set of rears that will be coming up around Feb when I swap them out of new ones They have some kurb rash that needs sorting, but run true. Also have a 16x8 ACS type 1 rim that needs re-furb.