Neal

Agree with Top Gear on this one, probably driving like this http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7134388833706149913

Ricky, I came arcoss this e30 318is enthusiasts site when living in the uk , Will answer most of your questions around the 318is and has pictures of motor etc. http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/index.html

I visit the x10 site from time to time. Nice thing about x10 gear is it's standards based so you can get products from different manufactures to work together.Worth a look if you can stand popups. http://www.x10.com

Thats a serious amount of kit on bass duty , What sort of SPL are you hoping for ? Like the BMW emblem on the perspex

Andrew, In my view unless you can legally get out of this I'd suggest for your own reputation that you finish your current job in the normal way. If you're staying within the same industry word could get around that you lack ethics by finishing early. May not effect your next job , but when in the future your going for a job and someone does a background check , calls this employer and finds out you walked out. Could limit future opportunities by leaving early. In IT we have a saying "Don't burn your bridges" .

Done

From what I've seen you'll also find some of the cleanest and most looked after cars compared to most large cities in the World, BMW's are a very expensive car in Singa's they possibly pay the highest BMW prices in the world, If it's been garaged at home and work (very likely) , you probably won't find better. Mind you , you may need to run one in , it's most likey never been over 80kmh in it's life.

For the sticky Couple of UK websites to find cars , also good to compare with NZ values to see if it's worth while. Despite some peoples view of UK salting roads in the winter many fine examples can be found without rust. If cars are coming out of the cities such as London many of the cars will have parking dents and dings. Service history a must , garaged car more ideal. Make sure the car is HPI clear , Cat D means accident repaired. http://www.pistonheads.co.uk http://www.autotrader.co.uk http://www.birdsauto.com/ ( Aftermarket tuned)

Interesting thread MP3 Files have two parts within the data file. Firstly the bits have an encoded audio stream , which has been sampled data rates between 24 bits / sec to 320 bits , The higher the bit rate, the lower compression of the orginal audio track. (Read closer quality to the orginal track) The second part of the mp3 file contains data , such as track name , group name etc. The function of the head unit in an MP3 system is to decifer the data part of the file system of an bunch of MP3 which has track name etc. The Headunit will also extract the audio stream for the data file so you can hear it . Mp3 boot changers normaly do the following. Extract the audio out of the MP3 file and pass it to the head unit via the RCA audio leads. Extact the Mp3 Data information (ID3 tag) and send it down the "Bus" part of the stacker cable to the head unit so it can display the track. Or the Headunit will send instructions down the data bus to tell the bootchanger which track to play. In regards to your 1996 headunit / stacker neither can either play or control MP3 encloded CD's. It's not a case of adding a Mp3 boot changer to the headunit as it won't be to control what track to play etc. The only way to get a Mp3 stacker to work with the unit is to get one with a remote control / display unit and connect that to the head unit . Personally if I was going down the Mp3 track , I'd replace the headunit with something that can connect and control an Ipod. With 60 gig you can sample the CD's with Wav files and have no compression on the audio tracks. Or fit 400-600 Cd's on it in Mp3 format In terms of Mp3 Verse CD's in a car. If the sampling rate is 128k or above , I tend to agree with bravomikewhiskey with most factory car systems. The difference is so slight due to the resolution of the factory head units / speaker (HK pack included) that most people won't tell the difference. But then again , why limit your music to 10 or 11 CD's when you can carry your entire collection.

I'm with Martyyn on this one, Nothing worse than fog lights on wet days etc. Not so bad in the car , but on a motorcycle with your visor down the fogs are a real pain. Even worse when someone is following you , you can hardly make out the road in front from the glare behind , they are perfect for filling the mirrors with light If anyone would like to understand this better , then I'll lend you a helment and stick you on the back of the bike. Hopefully I'll be able to stay on the road and won't kill you. As for people having the rear ones on , I've always thought they have too smaller IQ to drive a car .... Fog lights are for fog , not some kind of "bling" to make you look more cool. Use them like they do in the UK..... for fog.

I replaced the factory supplied Sony Tape head unit with a later model Sony Head unit around 2001 which had a Sub out and high and low pass filters. The 1994 factory stacker ran fine with the 2001 head (Text / Disk naming still works fine). You'll probably find that the lastest Sony 6 or 10 disk stacker will work with your orginal Tape head unit. The last one I purchased for the wifes car was around $300. The tuner section on the Orginal BMW labeled Sony UX550 gives better reception than the later ones , but doesn't have RDS which is handy for the dual frequency radio stations around Wellington. If you listen to the radio a lot it's something to consider. I have a spare sony CD stacker (Going into Wifes next car shortly) if you want to work out if your head will run a later CD stacker without issue. Pop me a PM if you wish. Otherwise , keep an eye on trademe for an NZ Version BMW Business radio/cd. Although you'll need to be quick , as I think Alex might be after the same thing.

Does the stacker make any sound when the eject button is press ?. If not check to make sure that the "DIN" lead which also provides the stacker power hasn't come out of the stacker.

Martyyn, Maybe mid to late 30 somethings fit the new NZ "crime" target profile. My wife and I have cellphones swabbed checking for drug residue on a visit back to NZ in Nov by customs. They then proceed to take our passports into another room for further checking , all Ok of course.... Mind you , I was spending a bit of time on bimmersport at the time ... Big brother watching this forum to closely maybe

PBMW mag has a article on a E21 C1 with triple Webbers(March/April 06) , Worth your while tracking down a copy.Triple 45's or 48's would sound good (might only need 40’s) , Graham Berry Race (In the Berry and Chung days) cars used to make inlet manifolds for a variety of different cars, they could possibly make one to suit an m20. ( I have a nicely made ex mini seven B/C inlet manifold on my mini ). They maybe interesting in building you a set. It would be easy enough to put in a tap for vacuum hoses such as brake cylinder. The trick would be to get the inlets to the right length, You'd need to sort out where in the rev range you want the power and get it built accordingly. (IE Short verse long manifolds) . Same goes for the velocity stacks on the carbs. Go for a 270 degree plus cam to make the best out of it. Lumpy cam will give the engine a nice off beat idle as well. Korman have webber kits for the 3.0 cs etc , but I see they have also done an e21 323 , Could be worth contacting about who made the manifold. http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/pl323.htm Alternatively maybe contact dbilas to see in the first part of the ITB mainfold would be suitable for carbs. http://www.regal-shop.co.uk/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=1894 ( ) http://www.dbilas-dynamic.de (Just seen Conrads post , looks like local is no problem) Linkages shouldn't be too much of an issue, plenty of aftermarket ones for triple set ups. Some thought may need to go into the right fuel pump as well. For the carbs, IMO go for the DCOE Webbers over Dellortos , they're a bit easier to get bits for and give a slightly better top end. As for Gas , maybe fit an e30 SA gas tank, you’ll probably going to need it.

Well done on price, the e30 318is is becoming a rare car , only 40 k made and lots of them end up getting broken up for it's interior , transmisson and diff for trasnplants into other models. I saw one of these sell for 3,700 pounds recently that had low miles. That's over 9k nz.Was the buyer grabbing your car a "collector" ?

And don't forget the coby system, headers / extractors etc , and chrome plated wheels and 272 v8 swap.I kind of think the modded car formula recipe hasn't really changed that much. Start by lowering suspension, more progressive shocks Add a more free flowing exhaust Engine work followed by more engine work. Get more air into engine Nice set of wheels Sticky rubber to match Upgrade to interior Replace factory stereo And these days lighting options that are more than just adding a hella grill kit. And adding spoilers has changed to a huge aftermarket body kit market. I've slowly been building up a Mk1 mini for about 10 years now, All the stuff I’m doing is has been done in the 1960’s & 70's parts plus a few new ones. Included lowered height adjustable suspension, adjustable camber / castor on front / Camber on rear. Bored / stroked engine, lots of head porting / polishing , 45 sidedraught, Straight cut syncro gear box, new paint , wider aches , wider rims / tyres , Lots of Smiths gauges , recovered interior , Modern front car seats, free flowing exhaust etc etc. I really don't see this car being any different to what the younger guys are doing (apart from being a long way down on HP and very old) Really if anything the mods are using the same recipe as this car, IMO only difference is what 40 years of technology brings. Perhaps you've got to the point where the a standard car has everything you want, in some way that's a good place to be.

If it's UK prices I could be interested.

Sorry about your state of finances , so you'll make $1k on doing an interior swap maybe , will that really solve your finance crisis ? When people are stating high ebay prices for leather trim you've got to compare with world prices , I'm telling it like it is. Doesn't cost much to import either. You'd be better of posting a price for each item , one of the mods posted a thread on this recently. Edit , removed sarcastic comment , Sorry waxer , you car looks like good value at $6k

Shame to butcher the Car , why did you buy / want a BMW in the first place. Getting tried of people doing this to make a bit of money. Considering 325i's with full leather and basket weaves are going for 600 pounds here I'd say the interior is worth much. Sell it as is and buy yourself a Toyota , You'll be much happier. :banghead:

I looked at doing something similar and started a thread on this subject about October or November. I've been living in the UK for the past year. Here's my observations. I looked to import two different types of cars 1, TVR Chimera 2, BMW E30 M3 2.3 Both are far cheaper in the UK than NZ with a larger choice of cars ranging from total restoration required , to Concourse Garage queen , to seriously perharped track or Race car. With NZ Laws the TVR was never going to be road registerable , so it was out. (2016 for 20 years) The M3's on the otherhand are generally lhd here with a one or two "Birds" RHD conversions coming up in the last year Prices have been as follows M3 E30 , requiring a tidy up and some rust work 3,500 -5,500 pounds asking price (not many) M3 E30 1990's , in good condition 5,500 - 6,500 pounds (Lots) M3 E30 Lower miles (80,000) and immculate 6,500 - 11,000 pounds (Not Many) M3 E30 Converitables 8,000 -11,000 (few) M3 E30 Sports EvoII ? 2.5 (only seen two for sale) 16,000 and 24,000 pounds. M3 E30 Race cars 15,000 - 30,000 I started looking too late for M3's to qualify for 3 months lhd ship back rule but to be honset I never really worked out if the car could be road registered. I was after one that I could drive to track days and use in car club events. Shipping a vechile back to NZ wasn't going to be a problem as we get a container to transport our gear back in. But after seeing Martyns photos of the hassles he had with shipping his car I decided that a container isn't the way to go regardless. (Martyn, spoke to a person in the container trade who reckons defective container seals and lack of moister removal stuff , like damp aid) I think I'd rather have a car brought over on a car transport ship as a result. A mates 930 turbo was also badly damaged when they dragged it out of the container in NZ (Someone didn't release the handbrake) M3's will start coming up as 20 y/o later this year , (I think October was the launch for some reason ). Hopefully this will open an easier way for them to be imported. I'd still like to own one for the odd bit of Motorsport , but on the other hand NZ has the new 318/320 series about to kick off. Let us all know if you manage to import and road register one , we'd all be interested. A few places to look http://www.autotrader.co.uk ( Use 10 year plus search as many older M3's not listed as E30) http://www.pistonheads.co.uk http://www.imc-online.co.uk/ (BMW M3 and Aplina S/H car sales) http://www.fastroadandtrack.co.uk Cheers Neal

If your head unit is the same then start bidding on this one and just connect the changer. (Your car maybe already wired for a boot changer , normally the cables will be sitting behing the left side boot cover /carpet. You'll just need to connect the stacker cables and locate a couple of holes to screw the CD changer brackets to. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C.../p-17473117.htm. The later model BMW headunits can be converted to work with various products such as none OEM boot changers and IPODS so that could be a good option. Personally , the e36 have a standard size stereo slot so you can go better than the factory head unit / changer combo. The audio sticky on this site is an excellent start. I ended up changing out the head unit , and put in a 4 channel amp, 2 channels to run new front component speakers , and the other two to run a sub, leaving the factory rear speakers for a bit of rear fill. The head unit had high pass and low pass crossovers built in as well as subwoofer control. The system has far better clarity than the factory and plenty of omph if the music takes you.

Ah yes , that's the one.

Wasn't an AA instructor in Auckland doing these last year , had the pleasure of having his ass busted on national TV.

Hybrid , A couple of questions around the Stereo upgrade around your E46 Did the Icelink / IPod replace your CD changer or is it capable of running them in tandem ? Also , does the Icelink provide power for the Ipod. How close is SQ compared to CD through the unit. (MP3 Sampling rates a given) Does the factory unit have any kind of pre-outs for running additional amps for front speakers and sub. What are your plans here ? I've been thinking about this for a replacement BMW for the wife, going down the Ipod route as well.

Excellent driving skills in the 3 rd video , the back end of the car stuck like glue.