Gus

it wont have more travel than stock, but will have plenty. the rear springs are captive too final build? my ass........wait till we crash it

wouldnt worry about sway bar bushes would only go urethane if was using aftermarket sways, i seriously doubt using teh urethane ones would make much difference

depends how it is broken, try getting in there with a screwdriver and push the locking arms

there should only really be one obvious way will have a look later if you still stuck....just make sure any way you put it that it wont hit the fan, keep in mind the engine moves. usually whilst doing burnouts

www.e30tech.com do a lot of reading around their forums before asking dumb questions there is nothing on bimmersport really.....heaps on overseas (mainly US) sits turbo 325i is badass

ideal if you have a complete donor car....you need a 5 spd box, but being manual already its good cos the whole pedal box, shift lever thing is the same. so you literally need just the box its very worth it, the 325i is not a fast car, but its reasonably quick. dont forget the extra torque. its fun. if the donor car is an auto, check the diff before you whack it in. anything higher than a 3.91 would prob be a little high for 5 spd. (but usable) there plenty of people on here to give advice and help when (not if!) you get stuck the only prob i could forsee is the plug going to the main car loom...is the donor car a facelift or pre FL? if its facelift i imagine it would be sweet

air/fuel mix in the AFM? that bug got me for ages, and annoyed the sh*t outta me steve, when you next at puke? 24th?

$90 strut bar, xxxX$ cage cages are badass

for the e30? not as much as the front, but yes its good. seems more tied down and together. more noticeable with stiffer shocks/springs

max front camber DO IT

haha its f**king low looks lower than most ive seen (inc cutties) 1am finish on a monday. 9am start at uni. awesome. front camber looks awesome

what sort of suspension work? and tyre? (as in R compounds?) was difficult to get a decent lap cos of traffic, but got a 1:18, running 1:19's consistently. could do 1:18's all day with no traffic, and who knows maybe a 1:17, but thats just speculation

2L heads sh*t. ports too small for 2.5 as for cam, the best seems to be the stock one for FI, judging by the turbo guys on www.e30tech.com

side skirts fit both 4 and 2 door as they dont use the doors like the mtech 2 kit. rear wont fit on facelift (88+)

spring rates highly progressive...end up being ~600 lbs front 1000lbs rear. cost was about 3800 inc shipping n GST for sways, springs,shocks and misc bits

pah who cares. my internet cock is massive, any decrease will pale in insignificance to its girth, length and dusky shade

just outta interest, has anyone got laptimes for pukekohe? just outta interest, i want to compare and make my internet cock bigger

track was good understeer felt good.....my main issue before at the hairpin was virtually nil still experiencing some slight (much slighter than before) understeer at high speed, but its nice to have that safety margin. playing around with sways will probably alter the proportion of front and rear, so might do that some day (will see how andys go first) feels much more stable under braking (i think a lot of what i noticed was due to one of my old ones being supremely buggered, was able to pull the lollipop off with my hands its not that expensive (50 quid being probably around 140ish, cheaper than stock new ones i imagine) and good!

track time i do have PS, it does weight up the steering, but is hardly noticeable. non PS rules!

you dont have to use a diff pedal box? please entail will the facelifts have their CAS and RPM sensors on the engine/ignition leads, so shouldnt need them on the box. Mine is working fine (87 with 88) def recondition old cylinders, its about 10 bucks each and makes them basically new. dunno if the slave can be re coed but they not too bad either

50 quid from UK shipped over here increase castor two thumbs up....may post additional reviews after track tomorrow....but very impressed...much improved over my disentegrating old ones seemed to get rid of a lot of understeer, and more stable at speed. self centering seems to be stronger www.powerflex.co.uk

pre FL should work...its the other way round that doesnt all the bits and pieces will run you up a fair bit though nothing regards electronics.....you will just need to wire the inhibitor switch..i found the easiest way was to read the bentleys manual, beats mucking around on the web

sawing the lever dont do sh*tyou need to increase the length below the fulcrum, not above it www.howstuffworks.com ?? plus your gear knob wont fit on any more ask me how i know

no you dont notchy my ass.....its short and its badass. if you look at diagrams the z3 m is very nearly the same height above the ball as the stock e30.....i would bet the 1.9 isnt any higher. its not low at all in the cabin you dont NEED the bend...sure if you really really want it in the stock position...in reality it doesnt matter, i havent bent either of the ones i have done and am happy with both

in traffic?burnouts rule