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Showing results for tags 'E28'.
Found 81 results
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E24 chrome mirror for passenger side. Chrome is in good condition as is the glass. Little bit of surface corrosion on inside of base but won't be seen when mounted, this is normal. $150 or make me an offer. Currently pick up only from Panmure.
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I am parting out a 1982 E28 528i manual with black cloth seats and interior. I need the whole shell/body, manual parts, suspension (for now so I can move it around). The following parts are for sale: M30B28 motor - Running condition, drove it for over an hour and it didn't overheat. Comes with loom, ecu, manifolds, alternator, powersteering pump etc- $600 M30 radiator - Good condition, no leaks - $80 Black cloth seats and matching door cards - $350 Black carpet - Faded but not bad condition. Best to be seen. - $80 or make an offer Black interior dash parts - Ask for what you want Non AC heater box - $80 or make an offer Non AC center console (2 available, both black) - $80 each Ask for other parts. Have miscellaneous other E28 parts so just ask for what you need.
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1321198583 $15K mixed kms due to lots of rebuilt stuff "Set up as a Race/Track/Targa car she(Ella) has had close to $55K spent on her including the original purchase price. The motor is still the original 3.5 Litre straight six, blue printed around 12000K's ago with a race cam, high volume fuel pump, bigger air box and hand made extractors. Coupled up to a 5 speed manual box with competition clutch. Suspension is Bilstiens with coil overs and the front end has been completely re fabricated - 3 Degrees negative camber. Front brakes are from a late model M5 and the rears are from a V8 850BMW. Adjustable internal brake bias. She is fast, at around 265 BHP, but her handling and braking capabilities embarrass a lot of modern vehicles on the track. She has a full cage a 4 point harness, but these are out of date and will need to be complied if you want to go racing. OR, I can take the cage out and re install the interior ready for the street. She will be sold with a new warrant and at the moment the Rego is on hold. Will put 6 months on when sold. -
AP Suspension 40/30mm lowering springs for E28. Less than 2 years old. Rears have had one coil cut to even out the height as the back sat too high as they were. They are still fully captive on stock length shocks and seat properly, once installed it is impossible to tell this has been done as it's one of the dead coils at the top and rests against the rubber pad in the top mount. $200. Pickup from Panmure, Auckland or can post at buyer's expense. How my car sat with them (with M30 bear in mind)
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So, upgraded all four corners on my e28 eta to e34 540i calipers and rotors. notable improvement. As far as I can tell, the next upgrade is in the master cylinder dept to improve pedal feel. have sourced an e32 750i MC to swap out, but, sounds like compatibility is not as I had found. ETA models employ a vacuum boost brake system, and now I'm not sure this swap out is feasible. Anyone done this upgrade? Or able to provide some insight?
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Hi All, Have some spare M30 exhuast flanges sitting around from my build. The ports are slightly off by about 1-2mm on on side due to design change (company side) and wasn't worked out till 2nd set was made. Totally fine for stock or light turbo as runners could be put on outside. They cost me around $100 each at time but ill sell them for $50 each, Ask questions as have a lot of respect for the users on this forum and don't want to screw anyone over or around. x1 = 14mm mild steel x1 = 10mm stainless
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I've isolated the source of my disappointment. The rear (aftermarket) muffler on my 525e is, positively depressing. It sounds terrible, doesn't fit perfectly enough for me, rattles and looks less than ideal. This needs fixing. I've taken it off, and it sounds amazing without a rear muffler. However it has the occasional nasty vibration and is according to my phone, too loud. But man it sounds good (even for a lowly eta). So I'd like something that retains the character of a straight pipe, but lowers the volume and returns the touch of class a classic BMW should have. And some nice tips wouldn't go amiss either (got a swanky hartge dual to oval tip I'd like to try). I'm happy to buy individual parts and design/weld/asssemble any pipe work.
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I have a 1983 e28 which, until a few years ago, had a perfect crack-free dashboard. It is garaged all the time and when parked outside I always use a sun-shield. It has done no good and the cracks are appearing. Is there anything I can do to repair (fill?) them or prevent them expanding?. I am guessing not. I don't like the idea of a dash cap, but perhaps someone can recommend where I could source a high-quality dash mat?
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Right. This one's a bit of doozy... The boot on my 525e is stuck shut. I'm 90% certain that something has gotten a bit intimate with either the hinges or more likely the catch mechanism. Now the beauty of the E28 is that it has a nice ski pass for me to crawl through... Except it doesn't I've tried sitting on it and massaging the open button, high-fiving the badge area, poking long things through the strut access holes, but to no avail. I've got the following, fairly primitive ideas... Smash a light Drill out the lock Drill a hole behind the number plate Cut a hole in the top of the boot Cut a hole behind the rear seat Never open the boot again Or actually use my AA membership for something and see what creative ideas they come up with... Any ideas? If not feel free to grab some popcorn
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Looking for front and rear bumpers for E28. Minimal rust but chrome doesn't have to be perfect. I do realise these will be 30 years old so not asking for perfect condition, but they need to be usable. Preferably in Auckland.
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Hoping someone has either used parts or a full set of springs/shocks or anything for that matter. Thanks in advance
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Mtech 1 steering wheel. Fine spline, bigger diameter version. Leather has some wear period correct patina. Stitching has separated above right spoke but the rest is fine. Overall in decent condition I would say. Look down upon other base model E28/E30 drivers with their peasant spec steering devices while you cruise along with your hands comforted by this ergonomically pleasant, motorsport inspired steering wheel. All for the measly sum of $100. A mere bargain, really. Pickup from Panmure.
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E28 black center console for AC cars. Heater knob fell off the heater panel and I lost it, but otherwise in good condition. Willing to sell top half and bottom half seperate for $50 each otherwise whole thing for $80. No carpet piece on bottom half. Offers considered. Pickup from Panmure which I'd prefer, but shipping can be arranged.
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Looking on behalf of a mate, mostly to get him an idea of the market (since there are none for sale I can't really say this is how much they go for)
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As per the title. What are peoples thoughts on what m535i e28s are worth both in general and compared to say a 525e converted to m535i spec.
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Looking for the above diff to fit to the e28. cheers
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WtB a set of 16" style 5 16x7.5 ET20. WtB a set of front sport seats for an e30. WtB the sport seats bolster foam insert (drivers door side) for an e28.. maybe someone has a spare passenger seat which this could be sourced from? Can provide a picture if need be.
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Hi Guys, Really kind of need one of these looms to save myself some headache. Anybody have one or know of one? Cheers
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Hi All, I know this has been discussed before awhile back but i have hit a road block with my turbo manifold and wanted peoples opinion before i go and start spending $$$ So i managed to semi build myself an turbo manifold with individual runners but have run into issues on the collector end as i don't really have space for the wastegate unless i mount it on top of collector (which with my welder blowing a gas bottle, i need a new regulator + gas so that's about 350-400 i can put on that or someone else finishing my exhuast off) So check out pics attached and let me know your thoughts (Note i have a twin scroll turbo) 1. Go back to log style manifold (more space but likely wont support my power numbers i want) 2. Keep as is with bottom mount and have someone finish off the manifold 3. Keep same style but change to top mount (only issue is getting 2.5" outlet into two pipes, which i confirmed will just fit between last runner & firewall and 6/5) 4. Buy this and just get a 50mm flange installed - http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M30-T4-Turbo-Manifold-E30-E32-E34-E28-E24-E23-E9-/131806544376 5. Or go with this guys idea (pictures at top and bottom of page) and make down pipes fit - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=285809 I am personally leaning towards options 3/4/5 but i do like option 5 as i could probably do with materials i currently have and just tac together and get someone to finish off but noticed there is no wastegate (so don't know if space is there) So let me know what you think and if need be we will do a poll and go for it + anyone know any good fabricators in manwatu/welly region as i would prefer local rather than sending the car somewhere else in the country. Note: Topcat , BMWorld and other members have been awesome so far with info and i will be representing bimmersport once this is up and running (dreams)
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Hi e28 fanatics So I am attempting to remove the 325psi crank nut to replace the timing chain and guides etc on an M30. Engine is on a stand so yeah, great fun. I have locked the flywheel up with a chain and given the breaker bar + longest tube sitting around the garage a go but it is not moving at all. So I turned to google for options (Last time I removed one I could not remember it being this difficult) and what I found was that BMW made a special crank holder tool, which doesn't look to hard to replicate. Has anyone had a go at making this or a similar tool for the job? I am going to give it a try, would anyone be interested in the cad files after I have completed it? Would look to have it water or plasma cut.
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Hey Everyone, As some people know i have started doing an e28 turbo project (running gt42), i have run into some serious problem with space on exhaust manifold side due to size of turbo 1. Engine mount gets in way of manifold i had designed (turbo was going to be side mounted on right hand side in battery box area otherwise hits the hood if top mounted) Anyway this is a question about modifying the chassis to make it all fit easier or i have to do some serious thinking on how to do it. Question: Pic 1 - Would i get away with cutting this out and re-boxing (which would give a lot of extra space and figure if done right would be just as strong) or is this to much in the way of modifications that it would have to be re-certified or done by a professional (which i don't have cash to do) Any ideas are welcome but the e28 chassis has no space compared to other models
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Story: So i purchased my 2nd E28 around 10 years ago now and had the plan to turbo the car but life got in the way and i had to move oversea's for last 6/7 years...So it sat in the garage next to my alfa 33 (w 1.7ltr sud engine) Now im back in NZ i have decided that i am going to dedicate myself to doing up the e28 over the next year or so then possibly sell the car but who knows (sure ill make a loss). I am trying to do as much myself, and on the cheapish Current: M30b35 from E32 (Stock) 5 Speed Manual Transmission Crap ratio rear diff ( ex auto car so great for burnouts in 1st . 2nd) Biggest stock bmw brakes i could fit under 15" rims (believe 735i & 540) Stock Suspension Exhaust - 2" twin pipe or 3" Straight off old e28 ECU - MS2 + Air temp sensor + o2 The plan: Engine - 55 lbs Injectors / FPR / MLS or Cooper Ring Head Gasket / Block (Stock for now) / Head (Stock for now) Engine Mount - Right side custom (dependant on space required) Suspension - JRZ Coilovers (or similar) , Sway bars Intake - Now Either ITB setup from M5 or Custom 2JZ Exhaust - Custom 2 x 2" - 2.5" full exhaust Driveline - LSD 3.97 (dependent on power output) / Balanced drive shaft Bushings - New all around Cage - Half / Full cage Paint - Touch up / undercarriage repaint (have a custom color in mind but $$$ dependent & access to booth) Induction - T3 Twin Scroll - HSR40RS (lightened compressor wheel) Insides - Seats refurbished / New carpet (due to leaky battery one of my family members put in there while i was oversea's) I'm in the manawatu area, so just giving a shout out as im sure i will need help down the track as im not superman haha. I will update this as i go through the build. Update 4.0: So not much has gone on since august due to issues with parts, but fuel system images below and manifold is now ready to be finalised. There is going to be another delay once completed due to having to sell another project to re-finance this one
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Hi guys. I'm making a hybrid m30. A m30b34 block with a b35 head on it. I'm not sure what head gasket to buy though. The 1.72mm or 2.07mm one. I've tried searching, but I've only been able to find turbo applications (this is stock NA). Thanks
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I am having a starting issue with the M30B35 in my E28. I'll start from the beginning so that all the details are here. When the motor was in the E34, the fuel pump was jumped between the ignition 12v pin and the pump power wire to get it to work. I tried a relay (which was unknown condition) to see if it would work but it did not. The car also developed a very bad miss just before I pulled the motor out until the day I drove it to the place I was working at to pull the motor out. What would happen is the car would start ok but missed and backfired under throttle, the more you pressed the worse it was. It was driveable cold but got worse as it warmed up and became pretty much undriveable when warmed up. The day I was driving to pull the motor, it stalled on me a block from the place. I tried to start it but it wouldn't fire and the battery went completely flat. So we towed it. Once there, I jump started it to see if it would start and it started a bit rough, then came to life and ran perfectly. Drove it up and down the road a bit and it ran without a single issue. So I took it inside and pulled the motor. Once the engine was in my E28, when we first started it, it ran rough like it did in the E34 when it was missing. I fiddle around a bit, left it for a day with the battery disconnected and then the next day it started up fine. Ever since then the car was running fine, except for a slight miss at low revs, until I pulled my gearbox off to change the clutch. When I put it back on, it did the same thing. It ran rough and missed, so I let is sit for a couple hours with the battery disconnected. What do you know, started up and ran perfectly fine. Last weekend I decided to swap the loom and DME to see if it would solve the fuel relay issue and other issues like the ICV not working at all. It gets 12v to all 3 pins with ignition on. The fuel pump relay gets 12v to all pins when key is in except ground which is grounded, yet the relay (tried 2, one was definitely good) does not work. Anyway, so I swapped the loom and DME, turned ignition on. ICV buzzed as it should. Then I tried to start the car. Nothing. It cranks but will not fire. I triple checked everything and even tried my old ECU, still nothing. ICV no longer buzzes but gets 12v at all pins. Grounds test at 12v, however the coil only gets 9v. I ran a relay for it to test but that only gave it 10v, even though the power wire was a completely new one. Also tried different coil, still nothing. Took my crank sensor out and tested it on my friend's M30 and it worked perfectly fine on his car. All issues the same as with old loom. So I swapped my old loom back on and still have the same issues and won't start. It am 99% sure the DMEs are fine, will test on another car to be 100%. Is there anything else that could cause the car to not fire? One other issue I've had since the car had an auto on the 2.7 is that it won't turn over on the key occasionally, especially when the engine is hot. But this could be bypassed by starting it through the diagnostic port, which worked every time on both the old motor and this motor. I tested today and the starter trigger wire only gets 6v when the motor won't turn, but gets 11.9v when it does. I know this issue is unrelated however I don't know if maybe because of this something is not getting a signal and therefore not starting. But it seems odd that all of a sudden there is a problem. Sorry for the long description but I felt that the details could be necessary. TL;DR: Engine always had some odd wiring issues but ran, swapped harnesses and DME and car wouldn't start. Swapped back to old harness and still won't start. I semi-admit defeat and would appreciate help.
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Hi All, Has been awhile but just got to the country so trying to get rid of some parts laying around to put some money back into my project car. I have a set of stock bmw 15" rims with tyres (wouldn't use for road as all old but good for burnouts) - See attached picture Also Evo 4 engine (Missing intake side) , 75k when removed , low compression cyclinder 3 86 Alfa 33 (I think) with 1.7lt alfa sud engine (great for racing) - Full car + spare 1.5 Located in Levin Make me an offer on any parts, can attach further pictures if required
