Search the Community

So, my car has a jolt and hard shift after changing transmission oil. After a year, I check the net and youtube, they fix it when resseting the adaptation. I tried to reset the adaptation and car went smooth acceleration is ok and stuff. But after a month, car will jolt as if somebody bump to you at the back. Sometimes, when during traffic stop (Traffic light is red), it jolt like somebody bump you. If you do nothing, it gets very worst. From just during hard brake, it will not jolt from acceleration from 2nd to 3rd gear and from 3rd to 2nd gear. If you reset it again, It will come back to smooth again. Then after a month or more it will go back to it. It will happen fast if you are driving the car like 30 minutes or more. I was thinking disabling the NIC (Neutral Idle Control)? Or need to check my fluid level? I remember when changing my radiator, the mechanic also remove the small radiator which is connected to the radiator. Maybe it is no longer optimum? Thanks.

Hi I would like to replace the drivers side weather strip on my E90. It has come out of the 'rubber channel'. I removed the wing mirror, and attempted to slide the strip back down the channel. But it always pops out at the end. I'm sure the rubber channel is broken. Does anyone know what the rubber channel is officially called and where to get a replacement? Cheers

I have somehow managed to damage and break the L shape sensor connect on the back of my E90 Active steering rack. I know the unit is the motor position sensor and that same ebmpapst produced motor/sensor combo was used on a range of BMW models between 2008 and 2013. I also know that BMW have a part number for replacing that same style end cap sensor with L shaped connector on E60 models (Part # 32106769232). I cannot find that sensor as a stand alone item. I cant even find the combined motor with sensors used on various models steering racks as an individual part number. NZ wreckers seem to be cleaned out of active steering racks with undamaged connectors which kind of shows these items are a common failure point. BMW dealership quoted me $5,500 for a whole new steering rack... The are refurbished steering racks online which to me says there must be an avenue for purchasing the EBMPAPST components. If anyone knows where to acquire or has a steering rack with that same sensor for wrecking then please get in touch! FYI Picture is for visual reference and not my actual steering rack. If nothing else I feel this is a good vent about how BMW pillage us. They have exploded diagrams showing the individual components of a steering rack which seems pointless if they wont sell them.

My E90 n46 won't start 2 days after I changed the VVT motor. I tried to start the engine for a long time and suddenly engine lights comes on, 2a67 Valvetronic , internal fault and 2a6b valvetronic,powerlimitation,servomotor. Car cranks good and just that. Did starting my engine long destroyed my new vvt motor? My vvt motor destroyed my engine as well? Tried to remove the Eccentric shaft sensor plug. Then start the engine it only shows error 2a59 2a55 -- eccentric shaft sensor. Put the plug back again and error is gone. Still wont start. Remove and reinsert the VVT motor's electric plug. Engine won't start. When inserted the new VVT motor, I press the start button to ignition 2 (Engine not idling) and wait for a long time and hear lots of sounds from the engine. Then started the engine idled for 15 minutes. Test run the car running it in the Motor way for more an hour and everything wents smooth and ok. No vibration in idling, rpm no longer going up and down etc. Then after 2 days, wify called , car just cranks and wont start. When I start the engine (crank long), I can smell gasoline fume. RPM goes up. Now i don't know what to do. Can ultra grey silicon damage your engine when some of it go to the engine? Any help would be appreciated ty.

Is this normal when short driving? Or there is a leak somewher? Like oil coolant mix?

Ive got no idea whats going on and ive only seen one other person with this issue on this forum but he got no replies This morning i started my e90 325i and noticed on the iDrive screen it was all different and not normal, the radio doesnt work its just static and every station is “87.5” the Settings dont have words just symbols I have indeed tried resetting the idrive with the two ejects and power button. When it resets it goes back to normal and everythinf is fine bur after 3-5 seconds its back to the weird configurment. Please help this is driving me crazy

Rare genuine BMW Performance E90 strut brace (NLA) Carbon fiber construction with aluminum end brackets, very light. Used but still in reasonable shape. It's had the mounting tabs ground down on the back of it (no idea why) doesn't effect how it mounts etc. Pick up Meadowbank, happy to help with shipping $400

I'm in the market for a manual E90 ZCP M3 and I was wondering if anyone here knows how many of these models were sold in New Zealand? Thank you in advance for any information you can provide.

Hey team, my rotors need replacing on my 2006 E91 335i (manual). Is the current suggestion as per the below thread still the way to go? Which I think was these RDA rotors and some stoptech (Sport Brake?) pads? A pair of front rotors is $461.13NZD which is cheaper than FCP Euro and demon tweeks. Micks garage was cheaper again but just bog standard uncoated rotors.

Hey Guys, I've been looking on and off for a BMW DCT gearbox (GS7D36SG) and having a bit of trouble finding one. I'm not too concerned which bellhousing it has, as I haven't brought the adapter for the engine yet. If anyone has one they want to move on, or could point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated.

I’m looking at buying this ‘07 e91 325i. I had a pre-purchase inspection done, it passed rather well considering the vehicles age. The one thing putting me off is this slow ticking, the mechanic wasn’t too sure what it was as he didn’t hoist the car up. It seems to slow to be lifter tick? Is this a ticking time bomb (excuse the pun) or just symptomatic of the engine not being warmed or driven much recently? Any help or advice greatly appreciated 😊 IMG_6457.MOV

Looking to buy broken S65 (E90 M3) or S85 (E60 M5) throttle actuators. Looking to do practice upgrade/repair on these throttle actuators. I like to practice on broken actuators, so when I upgrade mine I have enough experience to open and put things back together. Alternatively I can attempt to upgrade/repair your throttle actuator for free, just you pay for the parts (less than $100). No warranty or if can't repair your throttle actuator no bad feelings. I am doing repair it in good faith.

Hi everyone, I am really keen on getting a Carly adapter, does anyone have any that they would be willing to part with? Would save on shipping time and costs.

Cic head unit $SOLD Out of an e90 3-series. Tested and works perfectly. Sorry but I'm not willing to assist with an installation or coding.

With the recent purchase of a 130i I got a spare set of wheels. Was bought about 6 months ago for 2700 from hyperdrive. They are rotary forged, black and no scratches. Apparently 19lbs per wheel - see specs https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_nurburgring.php#wheel-specs Only took them off as I preferred the ACS type 3s. They are mint They still retail for around 700 each new, you probably won't pay that if you negotiate but still... 1600, Pick up in the Mount, or I could drive them up to Auckland. funds will be appropriately used to upgrade the 130...

Hi guys and girls, New to the BMW world. Have always been interested in E46 but am now the first proud nz owner of an M Sport 330i and loving it. A big difference to my daily work truck ford ranger

During cold starts I get slight missing and rough idle. If I don't leave the car to idle for a minute or two before driving the car it will seriously misfire as soon as I load the engine, throwing multiple misfire codes, cylinder shutoff etc, limp home mode. Even if I let off the throttle and reduce load it will just continue to misfire. If I pull over and restart the car its usually fine immediately after. It blows a little smoke cold and I notice the exhaust tips are getting really black like its running too rich or something? Comes good when warm. Twice I have instances too where the car is up to temperature. I go to plant it from a standstill (high load, low rpm) and again it sends it shuddering into multiple cylinder misfires etc). I have recently replaced Plugs, Coils and upgraded to brand new OEM index 12 injectors. Before the injector change I was getting misfire codes, shuddering, spluttering on start ups. There has been a real improvement. But still nagging issues. Vanos solenoids and boost solenoids also changed reasonably recently. I run the car nearly entirely on Gulls E10 98 octane. Colleagues suggest that maybe its shitty fuel? Thoughts on that remark? Car is running jb4 with MHD BEF. Logs for LPFP and HPFP pressures look really good at start up and running so I think it would be clutching at straws to blame them. But nothing is impossible right? Codes are repeated individual cylinder misfires including 29CC (several cylinders) and 29DC (cylinder injection shutoff). But have also had 2x 29F1 (Fuel pressure, Plausibility) and one 29F3 recently (Faulty low fuel pressure sensor) Also had 2B2C come up frequently and im not sure what that is? Car has only 70,000km on the clock. Boosts well (when this isn't happening). Seen in logs it easily reaches 17psi targets. Does have horrendous waste gate rattle though. I feel like walnut blasting might come up as a recommendation. Who does it in or near taranaki? Is hamilton my closest bet? I have bought a catch can to be fitted too. Your thoughts are appreciated!

Kia ora guys, Recently I have bought this lovely car. It was imported from Japan with only 20k on odometer. I am first owner and I love this car. Before I had experience only with Japanese vehicles (mostly Subaru) and this one is my first Euro. I have a lot of plans for this car, so probably I will create YouTube channel to show all upgrades ? Thanks.

Kia ora guys. Here I will post everything that I have done with my car from the day 1. So I bought it with 20900 kms on the clock. Full Motorsport package with black R18 wheels. Future plans: - Wrap the front grill. - Protect headlights by using film. - Protect full car paint by Dura Seal ceramic paint protection. - Change coolant - Change cabin filter - Upgrade side turn signals - Buy spoiler - Upgrade exhaust (I want louder. If anyone can advise me how to do it without spending 2-3k for new exhaust system, I will be happy) I have created YouTube channel, where I'm going to share my experience. Thanks.

Hi everyone, just wondering what is the best place to buy replacement/extra keys for the E9x model series of BMW... I know that they will do it at dealerships but I don't really want to pay the premium that they charge.

I get so much from this forum, that I wanted to give a little something back. So with my 're' introduction due to an extended absence elsewhere in the world, I would like to share a story, a good read, for that's what we do on this forum so I thought it fitting to share a little energy back. I hope you enjoy something a bit different and maybe have a laugh. It’s hard to pin point when my BMW fanatic craze began. Looking back, it feels like it has always been there. Somehow through a sea of other manufactures options, especially other appealing European alternatives, the twin grills with a Bavarian blue and white roundel shone through like a star. I know many on this forum feel the same way. I was already taken by the obsession long before I had one to call my own. Apart from the various video and images I consumed, the first to truly enter my life was when my Father had his company vehicle lease come up for renewal. Traditionally he could only choose from a small range of select manufacturers, namely Holden, Ford or Nissan. This time however, the deal had changed. In place of a choice now stood a wad full of cash and a ‘sort it out yourself’ directive. Despite the obvious increase in admin duties, this new deal was a blessing in disguise where he was now free to pick and choose, tailor and dress himself up in the automotive ‘suit’ that was his fitting of him. Little did he know that I had already contacted the tailor I wanted and had requested a dress rehearsal. I knew the budget wouldn’t stretch to ‘M’ territory, but we could definitely pick up the latest series with M-Sport options. He had already been introduced to the latest Commodore and Falcon of the time, no need to be re-acquainted again. So, with all my teenage persuasiveness, I pleaded my case, presented the numbers and before long we were heading to the dealer for a test drive. On the drive I proceeded to read out the list of options that would be making their way onto the vehicle. I had picked up a brochure from the dealer after school one day and had spent the rest of the week circling, marking and making lists of all the combinations of series and extras that could go together within the budget. I was always torn between a lower powered base model that we could trick out with all the bells and whistles and the option of a huge powerhouse waiting to be unleashed. After careful deliberation with myself, I came to the obvious choice that I was sure my Father would plainly see, a beast of a machine with whirring twin turbos and enough displacement to make him erase any thoughts of the other unsophisticated options - it had to be a 335i. I had now placed my order during the car ride over and with my Father providing a simple nod and grunt, that was all the reassurance I needed that he recognised my meticulous evaluation and it wouldn’t be long until we were getting pushed by three hundred ponies back home. After arriving and what seemed like an eternal discussion with the sales representative my Father and he nodded – finally it was done. The sales representative said I’ll bring the vehicle around for your test drive, my Father turned to me and said, “This is the only one I’m trying”, I was thinking, “this is the only one you’ll need to try…”. The sales representative eventually pulled around in a shiny, white 3-series. But oh-no, he had definitely got something wrong, this was a 320d. I looked earnestly at my Father waiting for him to royally wave off this imposter in place of our rightful chariot. But much to my dismay my Father greeted the man, took the keys and got in. He wound down the window and beckoned me to get in. My dreams. Crushed. Learning later that he had chosen to go with the 2-litre diesel with M-Sport options galore was a smart move (says my now adult with a mortgage brain). He knowingly pocketed the unused cash too. As many of you that have driven a brand-new base line 3-series out of the box know, they are amazing machines, with more than enough get-go for almost all types of daily driving and with the added extras for comfort and tech for play, they can be luxury on wheels. Needless to say, that despite first disappointment, this was the beginning of my infatuation with BMW, especially the 3-series. I enjoyed every moment in that car as a passenger but also when the opportunity of a business trip and therefore vacant home presented itself, an unnecessary trip to the takeaway store and back. I have now owned four 3-series BMW’s, one in each chassis from the E30 through to the E90. After a brief fling with a family Japanese hand-me-down used throughout my last days of schooling and getting me to classes during university, I swiftly moved onto my first, an E36 318i in green. Unfortunately, like all first relationships, it did not last long with it being abused throughout its life by friend’s cousins and others, it was lucky that they had practically given it away as it spent the remainder of its days helping others in the form of parts. Next came my first love, an E30 318i coupe in glorious gun metal grey. Though it may be seen by many as a step backwards, especially in linear age and technology, this was not the case for me. It was the retro poster child, the grandfather of cool and you need to respect your elders. Still in relatively good shape overall, nothing that I couldn’t DIY, I set upon making it my own and it when the mod bug took hold for the first time. New wheels were quickly followed by smoked lenses all around to remove the traces of amber. Rubber was replaced, as were floor mats, then finally wing mirrors prepped, primed and painted black, cured and enamel baked in the oven to guarantee longevity. I had put my stamp on it and enjoyed a couple of summers in what I still believe is one of the best vehicles ever produced. They are balanced, nimble and a blast to drive, while the lack of today’s tech allows for a focus on the experience at hand. Impending long-term international travel was the basis for the E30 be moved on, at times I still wish I kept it. Soon after my return another vehicle was needed. Trawling through the classifieds the options were endless – and boring, that was until I came across a well maintained E46 320i, original sale in the country, with one respectful owner. For the rest of the week still searching it was nagging at me. Nothing else compared with those body lines, nothing else presented my nature, or compelled me the same way I have been since the beginning. It had to be a BMW. The purchase was made and another couple of years passed with utmost enjoyment. Because the condition was so good, with a comfortable leather interior, I was not persuaded so heavily to add excessive modifications. A blacked-out grill created a meaner front end, tinted windows for privacy and an additional AUX audio port created the ideal conditions for long term use. Life and finances changed, and although the E46 was delightful most days, my original crush returned to my thoughts. After a brief consultation with myself, there was no obvious reason holding me back. She had to come home. Her name was Three-three Five and she is now mine. Fin. …continued below. I have acquired a 2007 e90 335i in Alpine White as a direct import from Japan, with 70K on the odometer. Although I probably would prefer an LCI for a couple of niceties, the price coupled with the exact specs were far too good to pass on. Upon typing the VIN into the search engine during my search, I was very happy to see that literally ever single option was ticked. Full M-tech trimmings (body kit, steering wheel, door sills, suspension etc), full black leather interior in exceptional condition, black interior headliner, heated seats etc plus many other appointments that are well known so I will avoid a list. But that is to say I was very happy with the aesthetics and condition. Almost immaculate. I really enjoyed the car for what it was, but I knew all along that the mod bug was already in full swing. I am doing one thing at a time, enjoying the journey and the DIY aspect that many here I know do. I plan on keeping her for a long while, with lowish km’s she’s got plenty of legs left. Along with the already instated mods below that I have completed over the past year, I plan to tune to at least stage 1+ MHD, but maintenance first, choosing to get the best result. I also want to improve the suspension with the increase in power. Here’s a final sign off with a list of mods and a couple of questions below, hope to be part of some events esp. in Auckland and chat with you all more here on the forum. Mod list (so far…) – I’ll be adding some of my experiences to the appropriate channels on the forum in more detail with pics etc. 1. Black kidney grills 2. Plasti-dip 335i emblem 3. DIY painted shadowline trim 4. CF spoiler 5. 3D Studie rep lip 6. LED angel eyes 7. LED licence plate lights 8. Replaced M-tech door sills with new ones 9. BMS 15mm spacers rear, 12mm front 10. AFE Magnum Force DCI 11. Forge Motorsport DV’s 12. Secondary oil cooler 13. New battery To must do list includes, coils and plugs, interior LEDs, MHD + xHP. Then a long list of nice to haves. *First main bug bear is squeaky front brakes at low speed braking. Rotors definitely not OEM, pads new from dealer but are rubbish semi metallics with no chamfer or rubber backing. Because the pads were new, I decided to take apart the callipers, super clean and sand them, silicone the guide pins, copper lube the callipers, clip and back of pads. Sanded the rotors and pads, then bedded them in. Quieter for a month, then back to bad again. Read lots of forums, should I just replace the rotors and pads with quality? *The biggest annoyance I have is that the front left channel cover clip broke (near where the door opens. This holds the trim and rubber channel down and is now popping up on that side. A new complete gloss black channel cover is $400+, which even for OEM parts is very expensive for a thin piece of rubber and plastic. If anyone has a clip spare or old channel cover (even chrome) I’d be interested.

E46 Clubsport 2005 (Facelift) Velvet Blue (BMW individual) Steptronic Napa Black leather interior Cubic silver trim 210kms Slightly higher rev limit to other e46's (ZHP) with an extra 5-10hp I've heard due to the exhaust cam having larger lobes, feels peppier than other 330s also. Airbags replaced already as per recall etc. Stickers in boot for those. Have replaced most things in the past two years of owning to bring it back up to a nice standard. Sitting with BC coilovers brand new, months old (with BMW reinforcement plates on all 4 towers) no cert currently. New radiator, thermostats, vac lines, intake boots, steering rack replaced, front disks, rocker gasket, trans gasket/filter and new fluids for everything even washer fluid ?, diff oil, disa valve, brand new coils, spark plugs (NGK), fuel pump & filter and a bunch more items bushes etc. Rear bumper repainted (recent chip ?), front still needs to be done and mirrors clearcoat. Spent 5k on OEM parts so hard to recall without looking at the receipts now, not including BC coils and carbon boot. Happy to sell the car with or without the BCs and carbon boot. Has carbon strut brace also(not pictured). Previous owner tinted windows 35% Did water pump and couple other items I recall. Have all receipts for every item. Has the 6disc changer in boot also have wired in an aux and have a Bluetooth DAC connected to that in the glovebox for wireless audio. Aux/Bluetooth Works while playing blank CDs perfectly. There are chips and a couple small dents as age and KMs. Ask me questions happy to answer. Looking for $11k with the BCs and carbon boot. With just stock items looking for $8,5k hit me up happy to chat. Taken my personal details off since sold. Have two sets of rims so can choose OEM or silver unknown brand if like. Or both if price right. In no rush as I have a second car and looking for the most I can reasonably get to fund new dream. photos are with stock suspension except 4,5th

BMW 325i LCI 2009 Year: 2009 Make: BMW Model: 325I Colour: SILVER Body Style: Saloon VIN: WBAPH16060NL75590 Plate: HQL522 Chassis: WBAPH16060NL75590 Vehicle Type: Passenger Car/Van Seats: 5 CC rating: 2.5 liter Fuel Type: Petrol Transmission: 6-gear automatic With professional detailing done regularly, Dealer Serviced, and a new warrant, this is a special car in pristine condition. Standard Features: LCI Package, NZ Navigation and Radio Package, Leather Interior, low-profile Yokohama tires, Heated Power seats with presets, Automatic Headlights, Automatic Wipers, Push Button Start, Front and Rear Parking Sensors, BMW iDrive, and Keyless entry. This car has the LCI package. When the updates are more than skin deep, BMW refers to these internally as a LCI package. With the LCI package, the taillights are bigger and much nicer looking. More aggressive hood, smaller kidney grills, Adaptive Headlights, different side mirrors, M-style alloy wheels, burlwood interior trim, and ergonomically optimised iDrive Controller. Please contact me if you're interested, want to view it, or just have a question. $13,900 ONO

Hi everyone, Looking to buy my first BMW which I will use primarily as a daily driver to and from work (60 km round trip 5 days a week). I also have a 2 year old son and 2nd on the way, so need to be able to get at least one car seat in the back. I have been doing a lot of research (on both here and some overseas forums), and think I've narrowed it down to three models which I'd appreciate people's opinions on. Maximum budget is $15,000. I haven't had a chance to drive any yet, but in order of my most preffered first: E60 540i LCI / 550i pre-LCI E90 335i E90 330i (the "sensible" choice). Was just seeking a bit more information on the following: 1) E60: Probably my first preference as a comfortable daily commuter (New Lynn to Albany - involves a mixture of full speed motorway cruising and bumper to bumper crawling) and spacious family car. Within my budget I'm probably looking at either a non-LCI 550i or a LCI 540i. The 550i is obviously quite a bit quicker, but I've read that BMW made quite a lot of improvements with the LCI update? I would never have considered commuting that distance in a v8, until I saw that they're ~20% more fuel efficient than my current Nissan 3.5L V6 (according to the official figures, anyway). 2) E90: I was very tempted by the 335i but was initially put off by all the horror stories regarding the HPFP. From reading a bit more here, I understand that NZ new / Jap imports aren't as susceptible to this due to less sulphur in the petrol? In saying that, they're obviously a very complex bit of engineering. Everything else equal, how would the predicted reliability / maintenance costs compare to the E60 V8 (I understand they have valve stem issues which can be expensive too)? 3) MBI / Dealer Warranty: I understand that getting an MBI is well advised (especially for the 540 and 335). Are the mechanical warranties offered by the 2nd hand car dealers any different than me taking out my own MBI policy? Who are the best providers? I read Autosure was good - any others to consider? 4) Any other considerations? I will make sure I get a PPI done by a BMW specialist Obviously a service history is highly desired, but as most on the market are imports from Japan would these usually even have any kind of useful history? Another thing that concerns me is the number of KMs that I do every year (~18,000). Say I buy one @ around 80,000 kms, am I just asking for trouble putting that kind of mileage on a car like these? Any guidance / opinions would be greatly received. Cheers guys! Nick

Hi, can anyone provide some guidance with the following issue? My 2005 E90 320i had the half engine light come on, seemed quite sluggish, when I pulled up, stopped and tried to run it again it was in limp mode and wouldn't rev past 4000RPM or go over ~30kmh. I managed the pull the following codes: A26F - I understand this to mean Min lift exceeded by valvetronic system. P1062 - Valvetronic Limp mode. I deleted the codes with OBD sensor and it did not return but I think there is something wrong with it, when I open the oil cap when running instead of getting a sucking sound like I used to get I now hear a drumming sound with puffs of positive pressure which concerns me. Background, car has done 120,000km. I re-did the seals on the vacuum pump and rocker cover gasket at 90,000km as it was leaking (typical I believe). It began leaking again at about 105,000km. It is leaking oil from the VANOS solenoids, could this oil have shorted the vanos system? Even if the vacuum pump had failed completely would I actually get a positive puff out the oil cap?? Or is this something else entirely? I would REALLY appreciate any help with this as I'm very worried about it. I'm a first time poster so if I missed any important details or this is in the wrong place I apologize. Cheers Richard