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Showing results for tags 'M20B25'.
Found 18 results
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Hi team. Arata here again with issues with my E30 (again haha). Believe or not I'm having issues with fuel pump(s) failing relatively quickly. From the previous owner to during my ownership, went through 4 pumps through last 3 years. First one lasted 2 years+. That time around the fuel tank was rusty which I did not clean that time. Second one lasted a week and died. Tested 12v directly and not even powering or moving at all. 3rd one and 4th one the pump was still somewhat working but not flow rate was down. (this time around the tank was taken out and cleaned thoroughly, no visual rust build up at this stage) First and second one was from trade me (nz shop), the other two was Icon series. Have already tested the fuel pressure regulator and is still working fine. Have replaced fuel filter frequent enough at the same time as fuel pumps, obviously with fuel filter facing right way of direction. I will definitely consider checking the tank and give another cleaning but just wondering those who owns E30s out there that have replaced their fuel pumps, which brand you guys used? Will talk to the shop to see if they can swap with new one under warranty but if the brand is the issue then I would get either genuine one or high performance one. Also wee question, what is the fuel pump check valve? Is this in-build inside the electric pump itself? Or is it the fuel breather? Some people suggested that put the check valve in the fuel line but not sure if that is ideal. Any suggestions or ideas much appreciated. Thanks team! Arata the crazy Japanese guy
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Hey team. My 325i died on Friday night (some people might have seen me at Pak n Save getting towed haha). Did quick diagnostics while I was waiting for tow truck to come. Cranking forever and not starting. Funny enough I’ve already replaced fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and other normal maintenance items so I’ve scratching my head. Got it towed back home, yesterday morning I’ve checked the usual things as it follows… All relays working. Fuse and relay for fuel pump is getting power while cranking as well as at connector end. I added direct power to the pump and I can hear the pump moving. Checked the fuel filter and it wasn’t the dirtiest as I’ve replaced about 1 year ago. But did some rust came out. So put everything connected again and disconnected the fuel hose to the regulator and injector rail, fuel not getting to the engine. So took out the pump again and this time I dipped in the fuel in the bucket and added the power directly, the pump motor moved but guess what, it’s back flowing from where inlet supposed to suck in the fuel to the outlet, this point I believe the fuel pump is damaged somewhat and I think bit of rust in the tank is the problem. I’ve already ordered the pump so hopefully I can at least test to see if anything else is the issue but meantime just wanted to see how you clean the tank inside. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks team.
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Hey team, I'm looking for recommendations for an engine builder who can put together a M20B25 2.7ltr stroker, preferably in the North Island. I have the engine all in bits (minus a few of the ancillary bits eg. water pump, fuel rail, etc) as well as all the components to make it 2.7ltr (conrods from a m20b20, crank from a 2.8ltr m52, etc). I have no idea how to competently put it together. Going to use this in my '71 2002.- 12 replies
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- stroker
- engineering
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As we're always making it easier for our customers - we've compiled a "quick reference guide' of our SKU numbers for members - focusing on earlier, mostly E30 Parts we can supply. This can make things easier for members when calling us, or emailing us about parts. As always, 15% discount applies to Bimmersport members (mention 'Bimmersport' when enquiring!) It can be downloaded from our website link, below: https://www.euroitalianparts.com/e30-bmw-classic-
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- bmw parts
- bmw classic
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Hi team. It’s time for me to start attacking on maintenance/repairs on my E30. Long story short, my heater core valve (or water valve, whatever it’s called) gave up couple of weeks ago, decided to go over and replace what I should be replacing for the cooling system. I’ve just replaced the radiator, heater core, heater core valve, new o rings for fitting, 2 temperature sensors on top of the thermostat housing, expansion tank and level sensor. Please note that I’ll do the water pump and timing belt at the same time soon. Thermostat is less than 1 year old and all parts are OEM from FCP Euro. Have bled the system multiple times with front of the engine up on jack stands, and it seemed that I didn’t overheat the engine which is good relief, no leaking. However, there’s little cold to warm air from the vent at full hot setting. I’m getting hot at upper and lower heater core pipes, and the heater core of course is getting hot, all other coolant hoses are hot as well. The other things I’ve noticed was the temperature gauge on dash is now 1/4 to 2/3 towards coldest mark, which indicating that the it’s not getting at full operational temperature. I have gone for test drive for good 4 hours today, still no sign of overheating but the gauge never got in the middle, and no change of heater bringing hot air. It’s staying like warm to cold. I have spare old thermostat which I’ll swap them over and see if it changes anything but I doubt it. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Hi team. Recently got a very tidy E30 LHD 2 door sedan 325i Mtech2 (m20b25). Of couse it comes with issues and here goes haha... When starting the engine, it starts on the first go fine whether it is cold or hot, but dies within 5 - 10 seconds after. Key off again and switches back on, starts fine and doesn't die from there. Things I've already done on this car... New fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel hoses around the pump and fuel filter. New fuel pressure regulator. New idle control valve. New spark plugs. (Coils/HT leads/Distributor/Rotors are less than 2 years old and checked fine) I also put the total system cleaner through fuel tank and did make better and so far starts and runs fine on the first go. I'm thinking maybe the injectors are leaking as I can smell bit of fuel around the engine bay (not all the time). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Great piece of kit for someone wanting or in the process of refreshing/rebuilding their M20 engines. All parts were purchased from Ireland engineering USA. New unopened Heavy duty Rocker arm set for M20. -$600 New Rocker Shaft set - $280 New Rocker arm eccentrics (oversized) - $260 New BMW shifter bearing bolt (aka 'bitch clip') it mounts shifter linkage to gearbox - $30 pickup in Pukekohe or can freight at buyers expense.
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Looking to buy a m20b25 block. not too worried on KMS, bottom end required only preferably without crank, rods and pistons. Located in ALK happy to cover freight cost for the right block.
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https://youtu.be/qWduC7g8zLg I've been watching a lot of older ATCC footage and enjoy watching the 325i Tony Longhurst raced, I've been told one JPS 325i is in Australia and the other is in New Zealand both racing in Historic Touring Car classes, which one is which?
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Wanting to buy 885 head, intake manifold, ecu out of m20b25, centre console for e28 manual. Live in tauranga but will travel or pay postage. -
Looking a shifter carrier for a Getrag 260 going on a M20B20. Don't need the selector rod or the shifter, just after the carrier, but if it comes with them that's fine. Preferably in Auckland or Hamilton but also don't mind freight.
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Loads of M20 stuff : Inlet manifold 2.0 still with injectors and rail $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 painted black $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 vapour blasted$80 Exhaust manifold 2.5, 3 stud $50 Rocker covers and other covers vapour blasted Camshafts, all good with no obvious wear, not sure if they are 2.0 or 2.5. Apparently they vary so they will need to be checked $60 crank, and other pulleys Flex plate for auto, early motronic with the trigger on it $50 Crank 2.7 H81 $100 Crank 2.5 H75 $100 Bearings, new standard size, fits many engines, M20s amongst them. rod CR6640CP mains MB7039AM Part number CR6640CP (STD SIZE) Mainly used for BMW 6 cylinder M20 M50 M52 M54 2.0-3.0 petrol engines and M21 M51 M57 2.4-3.0 diesel engines. Size: STD Position: connecting rod bearings Pairs/Quantity: 6 (complete set for one engine) Crankshaft diameter: 44.991/44.973mm $150 Rods, 2 sets, 2.5 135mm. One set maybe M50 rather than M20, a bit lighter. $100 Valves and valve springs 2.0 and 2.5 $5 and $2 each price as required, make an offer for multiple parts. Location south auckland.
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Getting near the end of my parts collection for 24 valve swap. I'm after the following parts: M20 driveshaft M20 flywheel M20 TOB M20 starter Recommendations of NZ suppliers for M20 clutches? EXEDY? Can potentially trade parts if you're not fussed about cash. Cheers
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FS:6 x 0280150715 Bosch injectors. Car has done 112,000 KM's Not sure if they have been replaced before or not but were running fine in my m20b25 $50 pick up Wellington or can post at buyers expense.
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I'm currently after a M20B25 speedo Drive for my swap. I'm located on the shore. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers.
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Hi all, I'm after a M20B25 manual gearbox, preferably in the North Shore, Auckland region! Let me know if you have one up for grabs and how much. Cheers
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These might be noob questions but I can't find answer's solid enough to make me feel comfortable buying this stuff as some of it may come from overseas. Can anyone confirm if the following are interchangeable between the B20 and B25: - Timing Belt - Water Pump - Tensioner Pulley - Alternator/Power Steer Belts - Cam Seal - Thermostat Realoem shows the same part numbers for most of these but this is only the second time I've used it so no idea how accurate it is. Main reason for asking is that there's a huge amount of 'timing belt kits' available for the B25 and bugger all for the B20
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Hi guys, ive got a e34 525i(m20) with a blown head gasket or cracked head. It is going to be deregistered and sold for scrap metal next week so if anyone wants any parts from it let me know. It is in Mount Maunganui.
